Yes I am asking you all- I notice there's a few mechanics lurking about so might as well ask you too! I am asking on dodge forums but want your opinion too.

Vehicle- 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 (newer style).

Problem is- when driving and coming to a stop, I notice the brake pedal almost touches the floor!


YES the brakes were bled last month (I stood on/pumped the pedal while my mechanic was making adjustments) and refilled with new dot 3 brake fluid. The fluid is to the "full" line right now. I also had the front pads, rotors, brake lines, and wheel bearings replaced in the past month and have new back pads, brake lines, and rotors on the way (rockauto.com is awesome BTW! Always cheaper than autozone or advance!).

The moment I turn the truck OFF, the pressure immediately comes back and I am able to press the pedal and it is FIRM as usual.

The moment I START the truck, the brake pedal goes soft. Not "to the floor" just softer than usual.

I can stop the truck if I push the pedal to the floor almost. I know it's NOT the linkage, that was checked when the brakes were replaced.


This JUST happened this morning on my way for coffee and gas. Not driving it again until I fix it!!!

Master cylinder? Are there boosters on the rear I need to be changing? Just need to know where to start looking.

Thx FfxU!

Leak or air in lines.

Old Dodge Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Leak or air in lines.


Thanks for that tip I will check the lines again!

Also wanted to add- while I was at a stoplight (right before this happened) I noticed the brake pedal slowly going to the floor while I held the brakes at the light. Then they got softer and softer- luckily I was only a mile from my house and got away from the stop and go traffic I was just in. The brakes worked just fine up to that point!

So far its pointing to "change the master cylinder (I know this is the item that the brake fluid container is attached to) and I priced one, its about $70.

Any other advice welcome I got all day since I have nowhere to be today! :)

Oh, and NO check engine lights, ABS light is OFF, Brake light is OFF (unless I put the parking brake on, as it should!)

need2stop Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Old Dodge Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Leak or air in lines.
>
>
> Thanks for that tip I will check the lines again!
>
> Also wanted to add- while I was at a stoplight
> (right before this happened) I noticed the brake
> pedal slowly going to the floor while I held the
> brakes at the light. Then they got softer and
> softer- luckily I was only a mile from my house
> and got away from the stop and go traffic I was
> just in. The brakes worked just fine up to that
> point!
>
> So far its pointing to "change the master cylinder
> (I know this is the item that the brake fluid
> container is attached to) and I priced one, its
> about $70.
>
> Any other advice welcome I got all day since I
> have nowhere to be today! :)


Is fluid leaking from the master cylinder? Yes? Then replace it. If you paid a mechanic to do all that work and he missed this. Take it back and make him fix it and never use him again.

Old Dodge Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Is fluid leaking from the master cylinder? Yes?
> Then replace it. If you paid a mechanic to do all
> that work and he missed this. Take it back and
> make him fix it and never use him again.


Well I'll be dammed!

Just went outside- pumped on the brakes a few times. Started it. Pedal went to floor again. Turned the truck off.

Looked at the lines again- fluid is POURING out of the front left line- the same one that was replaced!!!

So It's NOT the master cylinder- it was bone dry and no signs of a leak anywhere around it.

So off to Vatozone to get a new brake line!

Thanks dude for your help!

need2stop Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Old Dodge Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> >
> >
> > Is fluid leaking from the master cylinder? Yes?
> > Then replace it. If you paid a mechanic to do
> all
> > that work and he missed this. Take it back and
> > make him fix it and never use him again.
>
>
> Well I'll be dammed!
>
> Just went outside- pumped on the brakes a few
> times. Started it. Pedal went to floor again.
> Turned the truck off.
>
> Looked at the lines again- fluid is POURING out of
> the front left line- the same one that was
> replaced!!!
>
> So It's NOT the master cylinder- it was bone dry
> and no signs of a leak anywhere around it.
>
> So off to Vatozone to get a new brake line!
>
> Thanks dude for your help!

If you got fluid on the new pads you need to replace them.

Old Dodge Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>
> If you got fluid on the new pads you need to
> replace them.


Yes Sir! (or ma'am! this is the internet, can't be sure!)

I will also have the brakes re-bled at a shop. I know the line is easy (a wrench and a ratchet will get it on) and I can handle pads but I will have a pro shop do the bleeding.


What I also realized thinking about it (educated guess looking online)-

The brake line he installed probably had the incorrect fitting (there is the bottom part you snap on and the top you twist on or vice versa too lazy to go back outside now, but it is on the wheel well where the lines connect) and the one he installed probably only had the connection on one side. He was doing some welding there, I was waiting in the waiting room, not watching him 24/7 I was wondering why he was welding but now I know!

Also checked on advance auto- the review for their line said it also had the incorrect connections- betting 'ol mechanic welded on the old "nipple" instead of letting me know he had the wrong part!!! And of course the old nipple busted so here we are now...he "ghetto rigged" it and sent me on my way I bet!

That "mechanic" is FIRED!

I don't know where the last lines you had replaced were sourced but, you mentioned going to Vatozone...yeah, I would avoid buying parts from them. Autozone just doesn't carry quality auto parts. If you need oil or washer fluid or spinning hub caps...go to Autozone. If you need a part for your vehicle which is integral to its operation and/or your safety, then I would advise going to Fairfax Auto Parts. And yes, I know they are owned by Napa Auto Parts now but they still carry quality stuff and the people who work there speak English and have a genuine concern that you get out the door with the right part.

Whatever you do, wherever you go...pay attention to the manufacturer of the part. If you need to replace a part on your vehicle, make sure it's a name brand part that either your familiar with or has been in business more than 5 minutes. Maybe OEM is fine, maybe OEM isn't fine and there's a better aftermarket option that performs better or lasts longer or costs less. Check the Dodge forums and see what the owners there say about brake lines. Obviously, if you're ever unsure and want to make the safe play, buy the OEM part from the dealership. You will pay more but, you will have the satisfaction of knowing that you are replacing a part with the exact same part that was put on at the factory. If you have a rare or valuable vehicle then you'll always want to buy parts from the dealer in order that you maintain its originality.

Part I am referring to:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-wearever-brake-hydraulic-hose-bha620184/15090052-P?searchTerm=brake+hydraulic+line


Notice in the picture there is the silver fitting on the end (right side). There is the screw side, but notice how the other end is boxed yet on my truck there should be connections on BOTH sides. Wrong part!

Also see the review the person left, it is true!

Whoops, meant to say the BOTTOM fitting there in the pic!

Huh??? Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I don't know where the last lines you had replaced
> were sourced but, you mentioned going to
> Vatozone...yeah, I would avoid buying parts from
> them. Autozone just doesn't carry quality auto
> parts.....

You are absolutely right- lesson learned!

He probably did get the part from Vatozone (LOL), there is one a block from the shop I went to.

I am calling the dealer now to get a real MOPAR line! I know it will be more expensive, but I NEED my brakes to be PERFECT!

I do trust rockauto.com but dont want to wait 2 days for it to ship, possibly receive the wrong part again and have to ship it back, etc...so will go in person to my Dodge dealer.

In case someone else has the same problem- I found a nice how-to guide!

http://dodgeforum.com/how-tos/a/dodge-ram-2002-2008-how-to-replace-brake-line-394074

Thanks again FfU!

See- team work makes the dream work! :)

There ARE nice people in this world! Most people try to HELP people rather than HARM....(If you think this is shade to certain people it is! ;)

FfU IS good for something!! ;)

Damn. You figured it out.

need2stop Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Old Dodge Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> >
> > If you got fluid on the new pads you need to
> > replace them.
>
>
> Yes Sir! (or ma'am! this is the internet, can't be
> sure!)
>
> I will also have the brakes re-bled at a shop. I
> know the line is easy (a wrench and a ratchet will
> get it on) and I can handle pads but I will have a
> pro shop do the bleeding.
>
>
> What I also realized thinking about it (educated
> guess looking online)-
>
> The brake line he installed probably had the
> incorrect fitting (there is the bottom part you
> snap on and the top you twist on or vice versa too
> lazy to go back outside now, but it is on the
> wheel well where the lines connect) and the one he
> installed probably only had the connection on one
> side. He was doing some welding there, I was
> waiting in the waiting room, not watching him 24/7
> I was wondering why he was welding but now I
> know!
>
> Also checked on advance auto- the review for their
> line said it also had the incorrect connections-
> betting 'ol mechanic welded on the old "nipple"
> instead of letting me know he had the wrong
> part!!! And of course the old nipple busted so
> here we are now...he "ghetto rigged" it and sent
> me on my way I bet!
>
> That "mechanic" is FIRED!

bleeding is very easy. Have wife or friend or kid get in car an push brake while you open and then close the line at the caliper. just remove wheel, attach an aquarium hose to the bleeder valve have your helper push the brake (not all the way to the floor though you dont want to bugger the MasterC). Close the valve while fluid is still coming out. Make sure the fluid reservoir always has fluid in it (you can stick a bottle upside down in it). Do this till you see no bubbles and just clean fluid. Start with the wheel farthest from the Master C and work forward. Dispose of the fluid at one of the hazmat centers in FFX.

You have a 2002 dodge that runs, wow!

Time to trot your ass down to your local Chevy or Ford dealer and buy a real truck.

I quit reading after Dodge!

need2stop Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> In case someone else has the same problem- I found
> a nice how-to guide!
>
> http://dodgeforum.com/how-tos/a/dodge-ram-2002-200
> 8-how-to-replace-brake-line-394074
>
> Thanks again FfU!
>
> See- team work makes the dream work! :)
>
> There ARE nice people in this world! Most people
> try to HELP people rather than HARM....(If you
> think this is shade to certain people it is! ;)
>
> FfU IS good for something!! ;)

You're welcome. I'm an American, not a lib. That's what Americans do. Help other Americans. libs try to destroy them.

+1 Fairfax Auto Parts, and I learned "vatozone" today, that shit is funny.

BleederPie Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> need2stop Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Old Dodge Wrote:
> >
> --------------------------------------------------
>
> > -----
> > >
> > > If you got fluid on the new pads you need to
> > > replace them.
> >
> >
> > Yes Sir! (or ma'am! this is the internet, can't
> be
> > sure!)
> >
> > I will also have the brakes re-bled at a shop.
> I
> > know the line is easy (a wrench and a ratchet
> will
> > get it on) and I can handle pads but I will have
> a
> > pro shop do the bleeding.
> >
> >
> > What I also realized thinking about it
> (educated
> > guess looking online)-
> >
> > The brake line he installed probably had the
> > incorrect fitting (there is the bottom part you
> > snap on and the top you twist on or vice versa
> too
> > lazy to go back outside now, but it is on the
> > wheel well where the lines connect) and the one
> he
> > installed probably only had the connection on
> one
> > side. He was doing some welding there, I was
> > waiting in the waiting room, not watching him
> 24/7
> > I was wondering why he was welding but now I
> > know!
> >
> > Also checked on advance auto- the review for
> their
> > line said it also had the incorrect
> connections-
> > betting 'ol mechanic welded on the old "nipple"
> > instead of letting me know he had the wrong
> > part!!! And of course the old nipple busted so
> > here we are now...he "ghetto rigged" it and
> sent
> > me on my way I bet!
> >
> > That "mechanic" is FIRED!
>
> bleeding is very easy. Have wife or friend or kid
> get in car an push brake while you open and then
> close the line at the caliper. just remove wheel,
> attach an aquarium hose to the bleeder valve have
> your helper push the brake (not all the way to the
> floor though you dont want to bugger the MasterC).
> Close the valve while fluid is still coming out.
> Make sure the fluid reservoir always has fluid in
> it (you can stick a bottle upside down in it). Do
> this till you see no bubbles and just clean fluid.
> Start with the wheel farthest from the Master C
> and work forward. Dispose of the fluid at one of
> the hazmat centers in FFX.

You made a mistake on that last sentence...It should read, "Dump fluid down the storm drain."