Ok. So I had snow blow in Saturday night and Sunday thru the Soffit VENT in my house. Noticed water dripping and damaged ceiling above the bedroom.
Went up into the attic above and the ceiling was soaked as snow came thru with the high winds.
1. Soaked the insulation (ruined).
2. Soaked the beams in that area and will have to dry out.
3. Plank board for walking also soaked.

May even need a couple of days for the wood to dry out following the removal of the insulation. Putting new insulation over a wet structure would not be good.
Insulation would also smell.

What should I demand be repaired by Insurance which will pay for this?

You experts can tell me.

Change the wet insulation out, let the wood dry and you're done.

$50 and a trip to homedepot

dont be a pussy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Change the wet insulation out, let the wood dry
> and you're done.
>
> $50 and a trip to homedepot
------------------------------------------------------------
Are you nuts? What about the sagging wet soaked ceiling that needs to be replaced?
You think we just pay insurance to the "big corporations" for kicks!

What about Mold, dryrot woods, termites on the wood?

> Change the wet insulation out, let the wood dry and you're done...

Or put a fan up there to get air circulation and let the insulation dry out without changing it out.

And fix the roof.

FF HomeOwner Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> dont be a pussy Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Change the wet insulation out, let the wood dry
> > and you're done.
> >
> > $50 and a trip to homedepot
> --------------------------------------------------
> ----------
> Are you nuts? What about the sagging wet soaked
> ceiling that needs to be replaced?
> You think we just pay insurance to the "big
> corporations" for kicks!

Prepare to have the big corporation cancel your policy for such a weak ass claim.

Yeah now I know why I pay so much, they have to deal with people like you.

Let it dry property for a couple days, rent a dehumidifier and clean it with a little bleach if you're paranoid. Though letting it dry properly for a couple days will be fine.

As for the ceiling, cut out the wet part, get a slab of drywall, put it in, fill in the cracks with a little joint compound and paint. Any 7-11 mexican can do all this for under $100.

Put the house on the market, like yesterday. Your're doomed!
Mold spores will destroy you and your house!
Actually remove the insulation yourself and bag it in the attic. Allow attic to dry for a week or two, then replace yourself. Save the house insurance for the next hurricane or tornado.

be prepared Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> FF HomeOwner Wrote:

> Prepare to have the big corporation cancel your
> policy for such a weak ass claim.


+1

OP, you need a home warranty company, not an insurance company.

Most insurance will not pay if the water damage is not from roof collapse. Ice damming, roof leaks, a sink that you allowed to overflow, are user errors. Check your policy or with your agent. What is your deductable? Typically the first $250- $1,000 is on you. You really should have checked in your attic on Saturday for any snow infiltration, and cleared off your gutters on Sunday. A little work and forethought can prevent this kind of damage in the future.

It would depend on your deduct able and how your policy would be affected.

Why not ask your insurance agent

Drywall isn't hard to do if you know how to measure and cut and maybe a second hand on hanging the ceilings. The mud part can be tricky, but patience and a youtube video would help a lot. Its not hard. DIY would likely be less than your deductable.

dingo ate my baby Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> It would depend on your deduct able and how your
> policy would be affected.
>
> Why not ask your insurance agent
>
> Drywall isn't hard to do if you know how to
> measure and cut and maybe a second hand on hanging
> the ceilings. The mud part can be tricky, but
> patience and a youtube video would help a lot. Its
> not hard. DIY would likely be less than your
> deductible.

You're right up until 'Drywall isn't hard to do'.

It's worth the money to have someone do it right if you're only a occasional weekend DIYer. DIY'ing the ceiling is just bad news and a headache. There's a reason the 'popcorn' and 'icing' ceilings became popular and it wasn't because it looks good.

I've got Nationwide and have never been screwed by increased rates or high deductible. They replaced the entire siding on my old house after a hail storm a few years ago because it was obsolete aluminum that couldn't be matched on the one side that was hit.

Moved to a new house in middle of winter last year. Old owner hadn't shut off the outside water and pipe froze and burst flooding the basement while settling in. I was covered with $500 deductible for water cleanup, new carpet, pipe and drywall replaced and painted.

Check with insurance.

So let's say I am a heart patient, older and can't do any of this patch work.
Can't get up there to fix the insulation and such.
I am not a manual laborer.

Bottom line: Why do we pay insurance to big corporations? To fix what is damaged in a wind storm or blizzard. You think it's just a formality to pay Homeowner's insurance?

Also, my credit rating is outstanding.

Now I know why so many on here don't have a brain.

FF HomeOwner Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> So let's say I am a heart patient, older and can't
> do any of this patch work.
> Can't get up there to fix the insulation and such.

You pay someone a couple of hundred to do a simple unskilled job.

> I am not a manual laborer.

Too bad.

> Bottom line: Why do we pay insurance to big
> corporations? To fix what is damaged in a wind
> storm or blizzard. You think it's just a formality
> to pay Homeowner's insurance?

You pay a small annual premium to insure against major damage, not some wet drywall.

> Also, my credit rating is outstanding.

So? What's your insurance score?

> Now I know why so many on here don't have a brain.

Need further proof? Look in a mirror.

I grew up without a father, which is why I can't change a light bulb without making an insurance claim. If only I had a father who could have taught me to do basic things, such as calling a handyman to patch drywall or putting insulation into a trash bag.

Most people here are flat-out bozos. They don't have a brain or two nickels to rub together either. If you have a decent homeowner's policy, you will be covered for everything beyond your deductible. Call them and tell them what you are dealing with. They will have an adjuster come out and take a look. They may be unwilling to recommend a particular contractor to do the repairs, but sometimes they will mention the name of someone they have had few problems with in the past if you ask in terms such as that. Obviously, these people do know quite a lot about local contractors.

Soffit vents by the way are mounted underneath the soffit, They face down. Winds did not blow snow into the attic through them. There was a different problem.

dont be a pussy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Any 7-11 mexican can do all this for under $100.

The retail rate for 7-11 "Mexicans" starts at $15 an hour. A decent contractor can get them for you wholesale.

By the way, if you have an insurance company that drops you for filing a claim, you shouldn't have had that company to start out with. Be glad to be rid of them. Learn from your mistakes and deal with reputable firms going forward.

The insurance company will call some rip off companies like ServPro and Paul davis. They will rip apart your whole house to make sure their isnt any mold, run all sorts of treatments and bill your insurance company $5,000 - $10,000. Paul Davis will come and clean the mess up and bill your insurance company another $10,000.

$20,000 cost to your insurance company for something that can be fixed for $200.

Wise up... Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> dont be a pussy Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Any 7-11 mexican can do all this for under
> $100.
>
> The retail rate for 7-11 "Mexicans" starts at $15
> an hour. A decent contractor can get them for you
> wholesale.
>
> By the way, if you have an insurance company that
> drops you for filing a claim, you shouldn't have
> had that company to start out with. Be glad to be
> rid of them. Learn from your mistakes and deal
> with reputable firms going forward.


That's right, and patching some drywall and painting will take way under 6 hours.

Call your company Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Most people here are flat-out bozos. They don't
> have a brain or two nickels to rub together
> either. If you have a decent homeowner's policy,
> you will be covered for everything beyond your
> deductible. Call them and tell them what you are
> dealing with. They will have an adjuster come out
> and take a look. They may be unwilling to
> recommend a particular contractor to do the
> repairs, but sometimes they will mention the name
> of someone they have had few problems with in the
> past if you ask in terms such as that. Obviously,
> these people do know quite a lot about local
> contractors.
>
> Soffit vents by the way are mounted underneath the
> soffit, They face down. Winds did not blow snow
> into the attic through them. There was a
> different problem.
----------------------------------------------------------------
Excellent post Thank you.

The last part about SOFFIT's. There was actual SNOW on the inside that came thru and had soaked the insulation. That was a definite, saw it under, on top and between the insulation.
Our house faces West and the swirling winds brought the SNOW up under the SOFFIT and thus inside.

Wise up... Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------

> By the way, if you have an insurance company that
> drops you for filing a claim, you shouldn't have
> had that company to start out with. Be glad to be
> rid of them. Learn from your mistakes and deal
> with reputable firms going forward.

Many people will choose insurance companies based solely on price, not on service or actual coverage. This may be a good bet if all you are looking to cover is a catastrophic situation such as the house burning down, but not such a smart move when it comes to smaller claims.

insurance will rape you Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The insurance company will call some rip off
> companies like ServPro and Paul davis. They will
> rip apart your whole house to make sure their isnt
> any mold, run all sorts of treatments and bill
> your insurance company $5,000 - $10,000. Paul
> Davis will come and clean the mess up and bill
> your insurance company another $10,000.
>
> $20,000 cost to your insurance company for
> something that can be fixed for $200.


Your fucking stupid. The insurance will go for the cheapest fix possible. You can't be in business by throwing money away

you dont know shit Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> insurance will rape you Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > The insurance company will call some rip off
> > companies like ServPro and Paul davis. They
> will
> > rip apart your whole house to make sure their
> isnt
> > any mold, run all sorts of treatments and bill
> > your insurance company $5,000 - $10,000. Paul
> > Davis will come and clean the mess up and bill
> > your insurance company another $10,000.
> >
> > $20,000 cost to your insurance company for
> > something that can be fixed for $200.
>
>
> Your fucking stupid. The insurance will go for the
> cheapest fix possible. You can't be in business by
> throwing money away


No, you're fucking stupid.

http://www.consumeraffairs.com/homeowners/servpro.html

http://www.yelp.com/biz/paul-davis-restoration-and-remodeling-rodeo-2

ctrl + f and search insurance. I know a few insurance companies around here do use them for the type of problems OP is having.

I know for a fact they will both bill the fuck out of the insurance company. They billed my insurance company close to $200,000 for $50,000 of work.

OP, you should dry it out by starting a small fire under the drywall. If you are a liberal democrat, then I would suggest your do the same, but also pour gasoline on the fire and yourself.

Cannot comment about drywall DIY, specific repair, and costs. What can say, if mold is in high enough concentrations, it can be detrimental to your health. In a previous apartment, old washing machine flooded laundry and hallway areas days before moving out. Landlord did not adequately handle the mold issue around the holidays at the time (only used air blower). Last day that morning, I was in the apartment only about an hour repairing nail holes in the drywall (just using caulk) from pictures hanging there before. Mind you, this was December, cold outside, so could not open windows. Within an hour of leaving the apartment, very dizzy, vomiting, sweating/high fever, almost ended up in the hospital emergency room (to be clear not on drugs or alcohol).

insurance will rape you Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> you dont know shit Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > insurance will rape you Wrote:
> >
> --------------------------------------------------
>
> > -----
> > > The insurance company will call some rip off
> > > companies like ServPro and Paul davis. They
> > will
> > > rip apart your whole house to make sure their
> > isnt
> > > any mold, run all sorts of treatments and
> bill
> > > your insurance company $5,000 - $10,000. Paul
> > > Davis will come and clean the mess up and
> bill
> > > your insurance company another $10,000.
> > >
> > > $20,000 cost to your insurance company for
> > > something that can be fixed for $200.
> >
> >
> > Your fucking stupid. The insurance will go for
> the
> > cheapest fix possible. You can't be in business
> by
> > throwing money away
>
>
> No, you're fucking stupid.
>
> http://www.consumeraffairs.com/homeowners/servpro.
> html
>
> http://www.yelp.com/biz/paul-davis-restoration-and
> -remodeling-rodeo-2
>
> ctrl + f and search insurance. I know a few
> insurance companies around here do use them for
> the type of problems OP is having.
>
> I know for a fact they will both bill the fuck out
> of the insurance company. They billed my insurance
> company close to $200,000 for $50,000 of work.


Nah, I agree with 'you don't know shit'
You've got shitty insurance probably because you don't know shit.
My insurance let me use whomever I wanted for water cleanup.
They said they had a 'preferred' list but if I had my own preferred company to use them. I didn't even see the bill.

Claim that someone from Richmond drove through the blizzard, broke into your house, creeped up to the attic, and flooded it with water. File a $1,000,000 lawsuit against this person and some other unknown person known as TheNorthman. Call the Washington Post and have them write a story about the terrorism. Also call the police and swat yourself for good measure.

This will solve all your problems; just like it did for the Moreno family.

I suspect you noticed the issue due to staining on the drywall. If the paint isn't peeling, dry everything (discard the blown in cellulose insulation which I am sure you have and replace with fiberglass bats), paint celling with stain blocker. Repaint flat to flat ceiling white.

This should be far less than any deductible.


[Also, blew into your soffit? Are you sure it wasn't a gable vent? Soffits point down].

Stop the leak immediately then dry it all out. Needless to say you have to get the snow all off the roof asap. once the snow is off you need to get a large tarp over it till you can get a repair.

Get up there with huge garbage bags and chuck the wet insulation. Rent or buy a couple fans and keep them on 24hrs a day. You could rent a dehumidifier but if your attic is well vented you will be dehumidifying the great outdoors. If its really soaked in there I would get a dehumidifier anyway.

If the drywall is warped or buckling cut it down and get a fan going on that from downstairs.

Beware the mold scams. I work in commercial and I have seen the pros that come out and tell you you need 20k of mold work. Its bs. After having ServicePro guys come out praying on fears Ive had areas independently tested and mold levels were lower inside than outside the building. Mold remediation with positive air flow precautions might be called for in an abandoned property but if you live in your house and the leak is relatively new its doubtful your house is trashed to the extent you need mold remediation.

[Also, blew into your soffit? Are you sure it wasn't a gable vent? Soffits point down].

Yes, the vents point down. The last part about SOFFIT's. There was actual SNOW on the inside that came thru and had soaked the insulation. That was a definite, saw it under, on top and between the insulation.
Our house faces West and the swirling winds brought the SNOW up under the SOFFIT and thus inside.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Get up there with huge garbage bags and chuck the wet insulation. Rent or buy a couple fans and keep them on 24hrs a day. You could rent a dehumidifier but if your attic is well vented you will be dehumidifying the great outdoors. If its really soaked in there I would get a dehumidifier anyway.

Yes, but should I get the wet insulation out before the adjuster comes out on Monday. I wanted him to see it....I do have pictures, but still.

Call Fairfax County for a building inspection - They will fix you up.

FF HomeOwner Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> [Also, blew into your soffit? Are you sure it
> wasn't a gable vent? Soffits point down].
>
> Yes, the vents point down. The last part about
> SOFFIT's. There was actual SNOW on the inside that
> came thru and had soaked the insulation. That was
> a definite, saw it under, on top and between the
> insulation.
> Our house faces West and the swirling winds
> brought the SNOW up under the SOFFIT and thus
> inside.
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----------------------
>
> Get up there with huge garbage bags and chuck the
> wet insulation. Rent or buy a couple fans and keep
> them on 24hrs a day. You could rent a dehumidifier
> but if your attic is well vented you will be
> dehumidifying the great outdoors. If its really
> soaked in there I would get a dehumidifier anyway.
>
>
> Yes, but should I get the wet insulation out
> before the adjuster comes out on Monday. I wanted
> him to see it....I do have pictures, but still.

take pics and video (bring a newspaper to film next to damage) and get that wet shit out fast. The adjuster will certainly believe you bro.

I wonder if any of it contains ASBESTOS since I been coughing a lot lately.
The blown in stuff it is, yet it's a house in the '70's.

Claims guy coming out on Sunday.
Been one week since the ceiling got soaked and I'm not moving anything till they get here.
Worried about Mold spores spreading now. 24 - 48 hrs on wet wood and insulation.
I am right....getting to be a big job now.

bring a newspaper Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> FF HomeOwner Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > [Also, blew into your soffit? Are you sure it
> > wasn't a gable vent? Soffits point down].
> >
> > Yes, the vents point down. The last part about
> > SOFFIT's. There was actual SNOW on the inside
> that
> > came thru and had soaked the insulation. That
> was
> > a definite, saw it under, on top and between
> the
> > insulation.
> > Our house faces West and the swirling winds
> > brought the SNOW up under the SOFFIT and thus
> > inside.
> >
> --------------------------------------------------
>
> > -----------------------
> >
> > Get up there with huge garbage bags and chuck
> the
> > wet insulation. Rent or buy a couple fans and
> keep
> > them on 24hrs a day. You could rent a
> dehumidifier
> > but if your attic is well vented you will be
> > dehumidifying the great outdoors. If its really
> > soaked in there I would get a dehumidifier
> anyway.
> >
> >
> > Yes, but should I get the wet insulation out
> > before the adjuster comes out on Monday. I
> wanted
> > him to see it....I do have pictures, but still.
>
> take pics and video (bring a newspaper to film
> next to damage) and get that wet shit out fast.
> The adjuster will certainly believe you bro.


Rent a popcorn machine and serve tasty snacks!

FF HomeOwner Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Claims guy coming out on Sunday.
> Been one week since the ceiling got soaked and I'm
> not moving anything till they get here.
> Worried about Mold spores spreading now. 24 - 48
> hrs on wet wood and insulation.
> I am right....getting to be a big job now.


My kitchens on fire, I'm not going to put the fire out until the insurance adjuster gets to my home.

I bet its going to be a big job.

All I can say is every time I've had a water infiltration problem in my properties, the first thing they do is rip out the wet stuff and bring in huge fans to dry out the place.

Lesson learned Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Most insurance will not pay if the water damage is
> not from roof collapse. Ice damming, roof leaks, a
> sink that you allowed to overflow, are user
> errors. Check your policy or with your agent.
> What is your deductable? Typically the first $250-
> $1,000 is on you. You really should have checked
> in your attic on Saturday for any snow
> infiltration, and cleared off your gutters on
> Sunday. A little work and forethought can prevent
> this kind of damage in the future.


It was a natural disaster like Hurricane Sandy!

FF HomeOwner Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Claims guy coming out on Sunday.
> Been one week since the ceiling got soaked and I'm
> not moving anything till they get here.
> Worried about Mold spores spreading now. 24 - 48
> hrs on wet wood and insulation.

The temperature is not conducive to mold nor is the time frame. You might have mildew which can be scrubbed down with chlorox solution. You probably have more mold in your shower. I was schooled in mold from Hurricane Sandy in NY. My adjuster who worked Katrina too, calmed me down. Mold is overblown and there are companies who take advantage of this. Why didn't you ask the claims guy if you could pull out the wet insulation? You have pictures and you could saved some of it outside or in your garage for proof.

Remediation scams Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> FF HomeOwner Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Claims guy coming out on Sunday.
> > Been one week since the ceiling got soaked and
> I'm
> > not moving anything till they get here.
> > Worried about Mold spores spreading now. 24 -
> 48
> > hrs on wet wood and insulation.
>
> The temperature is not conducive to mold nor is
> the time frame. You might have mildew which can be
> scrubbed down with chlorox solution. You probably
> have more mold in your shower. I was schooled in
> mold from Hurricane Sandy in NY. My adjuster who
> worked Katrina too, calmed me down. Mold is
> overblown and there are companies who take
> advantage of this. Why didn't you ask the claims
> guy if you could pull out the wet insulation? You
> have pictures and you could saved some of it
> outside or in your garage for proof.

I agree with you about Mold. ServePro and others can get you by the nuts on this stuff. With me it's somewhere between pretty bad and not too bad, so All is well.
I just don't trust a lot of contractors as they can screw things up or add work on and you "just don't know".

I am still waiting to hear about the Openings, They should all be screened, if they are not you have bigger problems rather than snow, Like Rats, Squirrels, Bugs, Birds and Bats. Ask why your siding person didn't cover them.. I have tarps on my Carport and no snow made it in that Big opening.

Is your soffit a huge hole or something? How did massive quantities of snow get into your attic through the downward-facing soffit venting? I call 1000x b.s. Pics or GTFO. Termites in your attic? Dude, you trollin hard.

Better Call Saul Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Is your soffit a huge hole or something? How did
> massive quantities of snow get into your attic
> through the downward-facing soffit venting? I call
> 1000x b.s. Pics or GTFO. Termites in your attic?
> Dude, you trollin hard.

Listen pal, I have no reason to lie about this. I have repeated at least 3 times it came thru the soffit. With the soffit facing to the west the "extremely high winds" at close to 60 mph for several hours swirling it did come in. I went up there that night and took pics of snow on top of the insulation.

I did have extra screening I attached many years ago because of squirrels in the attic, the winds blew the screening off.

Again the peak where the soffit is there are no gutters and it DID NOT come in thru the roof. That's the story.

Soffit vents are installed into the underside of the HORIZONTAL surface that is below and behind the fascia board that your gutters are secured to. They are external to the wall studs and should not have insulation above them. Their purpose is to allow positive air-flow through your attic. They are manufactured to allow air to pass through but not much else.

Gable vents are installed at the top of VERTICAL end-walls in your attic. They are typically louvered so as to help keep out rain and snow, but should also be screened as a deterrent to bugs and small animals.

Winds at the levels originally predicted for the recent storm did not materialize. There were strong winds, but no sustained winds of 60 mph and likely no gusts at that level either.

http://arteroofing.com/soffits

Call ARTE Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Soffit vents are installed into the underside of
> the HORIZONTAL surface that is below and behind
> the fascia board that your gutters are secured to.
> They are external to the wall studs and should
> not have insulation above them. Their purpose is
> to allow positive air-flow through your attic.
> They are manufactured to allow air to pass through
> but not much else.
>
> Gable vents are installed at the top of VERTICAL
> end-walls in your attic. They are typically
> louvered so as to help keep out rain and snow, but
> should also be screened as a deterrent to bugs and
> small animals.
>
> Winds at the levels originally predicted for the
> recent storm did not materialize. There were
> strong winds, but no sustained winds of 60 mph and
> likely no gusts at that level either.
>
> http://arteroofing.com/soffits

OP here: You are 100% correct. It was the Gable Vent. I am wrong and I admit it.
Yes, it was the GVent at the top of the end-walls in the attic (one at each end of the attic). I am sorry for the confusion, my bad!

Ahhh, makes sense now. Sorry for doubting it, but it didn't make sense if it was the soffit.

The framing wood isn't going to rot from one exposure to water. Termites go after wood in contact with the ground - definitely not an attic concern. You aren't going to get mold or mildew if you let everything dry and have a properly ventilated attic. The attic should be getting plenty of outside air circulation so it should dry out just fine provided you remove any wet insulation.

If your drywall has been soaked, it needs to be replaced. Just have someone replace it and reinsulate. Perhaps you can put a screen on the gable vent or get one that isn't so easy for snow to get through?

The third option was a ridge vent, I don't know what FF stands for but if its what I think, he failed Building construction and roofs in FF1, since mine is louvered you may want to tack that on your honey do list Even I didn't get snow in my west facing Attic Fan and all the snow ended on my Easterly Facing point of the roof. But yeah forgot I have a Whole House fan and the woodstoves cleared my roof in a day. Give a few days to dry out, and a little Drylock or Primer on the drywall and your good to go.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/03/2016 11:30PM by Burke Brat.