xv4dM Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The inspector either did not explain properly what
> is going on and/or has no idea what he is doing or
> talking about.
>
> Here is the story.
>
> There are 2 key things that are used to determine
> if a vehicle can and will be able to Pass the VA
> State Emission Inspection.
>
> Step #1. Emission Readiness Monitors, model year
> vehicles from 1996-2000 can have up to 2 Emission
> Readiness Monitors not Cleared/Passed and still be
> eligible for Inspection.
>
> See quote from the VA DEQ website - "If more than
> two of the monitored systems are found to be "not
> ready" for 1996 to 2000 model year vehicles, or
> more than one monitored system is found to be "not
> ready" for 2001 and later model year vehicles, the
> vehicle is rejected from testing at no charge and
> the vehicle must be operated until the monitors
> have had a chance to run and the system is ready
> to test."
>
> Step #2, There cannot be any DTC's present at time
> of inspection. Usually this is based to the
> SES/CEL/MIL indicator, however, there is something
> called a "Pending" DTC or code that will not turn
> the SES/CEL/MIL light on. A "Pending" code means
> an issue has been detected, however, the issue
> needs to be detected again within a certain number
> of engine start cycles, the "Pending" code will
> automatically clear.
>
> What you need to is "Manage" this issue in order
> to get through the Inspection to buy you time to
> get the real problem resolved.
>
> First DO NOT ALLOW anyone to attempt to
> sell/install and Oxygen sensor, this WILL NOT
> correct the problem and is NOT the problem. The
> description provided is a "generic" and
> description at best, it is written clearly enough
> however, most monkeys see the work Oxygen sensor
> and want to immediately replace it.
>
> You need to clear the codes again, drive the car
> until all but 2 of the Emission Readiness Monitors
> have cleared and then take the car back for
> inspected before any Pending or actual DTC's
> (Trouble Codes) appear. Then you will be able to
> get the car inspected.
>
> It would be easier for you to have your own OBDII
> scan tool, which will be helpful in resolving the
> issues long term. DO NOT purchase a Actron tool
> from the parts store, they are too expensive and
> are lack luster at best. For under $30 you can
> purchase an OBDII smart phone App and interface
> for your smart phone. These are very powerful but
> the menus are sometimes a bit of a challenge. Just
> need to know if you are an iProduct or Android
> user.
>
> I would bet if you had the codes cleared, started
> and drove the car for 2 days a total of only 10-15
> miles to include some time on Rt66 up an exit and
> back you will probably clear most of the Readiness
> Monitors and not trigger a Pending coder or the
> SES/CEL/MIL.
>
> Again, forget about the O2 sensors, these are not
> your current problem. Bad O2 sensors cannot
> accurately measure Rich or Lean conditions. You
> are getting a Lean condition, the O2 sensor is
> working good enough. The problem is a vacuum leak
> that needs to be resolved, likely pretty cheap and
> easy to find and resolve. Provably a split or
> cracked rubber hose, but may be something with a
> gasket or seal somewhere in the intake air path or
> PCV system.
>
>
http://www.deq.state.va.us/Programs/AirCheckVirgin
> ia/ForMotoristsVehicleOwners/OnBoardDiagnosticSyst
> emFAQ.aspx
I agree completely with this guy. This was my experience. As I said before the O2 can literally be dozens of things that are NOT the sensors. I did research, found a trustworthy indie mechanic and asked him to diagnose the problem. I have enough knowledge to assert that if it was an O2 I would replace it myself. The EGR is a pain to clean so I paid him to do it. He applied the diagnosis to the repair so it was only a couple hundred bucks.
A friend showed me his wireless OBD reader this weekend and it looked cool. you plug it in and get the readings via bluetooth on your phone. It had real time data too. You would be well served to read some Ford forums on your particular make, model and year. Im sure this is a common problem and you will likely read a lot of experience from people that have dealt with this in your car. This was the case with my merc EGR cleaning issue.
Finally you are going to have to find a mechanic you trust. that means no dealers, no brake/tranny/oil change places. Maybe gas stations but they are usually too much generalists in my opinion. Yelp, car talk and the best source is Checklist (available online and in print for a fee or at your local library for free).
There are lots of crooked shops so if you have a bad feeling go elsewhere. Car repair is basically a black hole if you dont have knowledge and dont have the ability to understand and research auto issues. I find it fun to figure stuff out and Im cheep. I drive high quality late model cars whose owners paid fortunes to keep them dealer maintained. I always research the make and model prior to buying a car to avoid models like the Windstar.
Go to the Ford owner forums and read up my friend...