I own 2 cars each with over 200k on them. They are 1999 and 2004 model years. They both are reliable and run well (Volvo and Mercedes). I do my own work and repair them once or twice each year. Struts for one car one year, brakes every 3 years, and the odd switch or belt now and then.

I often look at cars thinking one day one of mine will give out and Ill be forced to buy one. How do people do it? Used shit-boxes are 10-15 grand. If you want a good used car its 20-25k. Im not about to buy a cheap pos scion or civic or some shit either. When I buy a car I expect it to last 15 years and 225k miles.

I hate debt especially when its in a depreciating asset like a car. Do people really pay 400 bucks a month on a 7 year loan for a fucking vehicle that depreciates 10% per year - that is stupid.

Guess Ill eventually find a single owner vehicle with high miles and service records - probably a volvo or toyota. I know volvos and toyotas are bombproof on reliability. SAD BAD

Economics4Free Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>
> I hate debt especially when its in a depreciating
> asset like a car. Do people really pay 400 bucks
> a month on a 7 year loan for a fucking vehicle
> that depreciates 10% per year - that is stupid.
>

Yes, they stupidly do. Often more. I don't recall the exact number but a huge percentage of car loans now are under water from day one. Which is a big part of why auto loans are defaulting at record rates.

Or they lease which is a large percentage of luxury car financing these days especially around here.

Serious Question:

Why do people lease cars? How can that make sense financially?

Figure it out -- use a shop manual, learn something and repair your own cars.
I do.
I do not do my own transmission repairs, however, unless it is a sensor or something else accessible from the outside of the housing.

Some capitalize on the lifestyles of others, on wastrel's throw aways in particular.

Gold doesn't always glitter

DanKnows Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Serious Question:
>
> Why do people lease cars? How can that make sense
> financially?


It can in some cases. e.g., In my case for business purposes I could expense the full lease cost vs having to depreciate it over N years if I buy. Although that's distorted some now with accelerated expensing.

As a personal vehicle the benefit for most being little money up front and intangible value of driving a nicer, newer car for the life of the vehicle.
Depends a lot on the specifics but, assuming that you structure it right, it makes most sense if drive very little or a ton. In the former case you can get a lease with a very low mileage base for relatively cheap. In the latter you're better off since you aren't (directly at least) taking the hit if you're putting 50K miles on your own car. e.g., When I worked as an inspector for the county we drove a ton and weren't given county cars. As wage-paid employees we couldn't expense things as business expenses. So what most did was lease a car and then charge the mileage/lease costs to the county vs buying something that would be ragged and have 150K on it in 3 years.

And kind of counter-intuitive but it works better for nicer cars which can be less expensive to lease than a crappy car because the residual (resale) value is much higher. You'll usually pay as much or more to lease some crappy Chrysler than you will for a BMW.

Why do you buy a depreciating car if you are going to complain about it? It's not hard to find older cars that will hold their value or appreciate. Your repair and maintenance costs might even be lower than with a newer car. If the car is a daily driver, you can't register it as an antique, but you will still reap the benefits of the personal property tax being zero and no emissions inspections.

DanKnows Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Serious Question:
>
> Why do people lease cars? How can that make sense
> financially?


I lease cars cuz I have no time working on cars and no money and I always like the new models. Im lookin at leases or purchases and its way too high.

I bought my first car four years ago and just finished paying it off. It'll be the last one I probably ever buy. My grandfather always leased vehicles using his company card, and that'll probably be what I do from here on out. They just depreciate too much in value over time, and you eventually get bored of them after 2 or 3 years.

antique cars Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Why do you buy a depreciating car if you are going
> to complain about it? It's not hard to find older
> cars that will hold their value or appreciate.
> Your repair and maintenance costs might even be
> lower than with a newer car. If the car is a
> daily driver, you can't register it as an antique,
> but you will still reap the benefits of the
> personal property tax being zero and no emissions
> inspections.

Biggest reasons to avoid antique cars are
1. Safety
2. Pollution
3. Performance
4. Reliability

Antique cars are classified as being 25 years or older - that means you are driving a 1992 model year or older. That is actually on the cusp of some pretty important safety technology. Personally I would drive a 1992 Lincoln Town Car, those were reliable (except for the front end and window regulators). Still. But lets be honest, if you are going to commute a 25 year old car is simply not going to last many years running 15k plus miles of local driving.

Newer cars also get much better mileage and the emissions are much lower.

antiquecarsfor the weekend Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> antique cars Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Why do you buy a depreciating car if you are
> going
> > to complain about it? It's not hard to find
> older
> > cars that will hold their value or appreciate.
> > Your repair and maintenance costs might even be
> > lower than with a newer car. If the car is a
> > daily driver, you can't register it as an
> antique,
> > but you will still reap the benefits of the
> > personal property tax being zero and no
> emissions
> > inspections.
>
> Biggest reasons to avoid antique cars are
> 1. Safety
> 2. Pollution
> 3. Performance
> 4. Reliability
>
> Antique cars are classified as being 25 years or
> older - that means you are driving a 1992 model
> year or older. That is actually on the cusp of
> some pretty important safety technology.
> Personally I would drive a 1992 Lincoln Town Car,
> those were reliable (except for the front end and
> window regulators). Still. But lets be honest,
> if you are going to commute a 25 year old car is
> simply not going to last many years running 15k
> plus miles of local driving.
>
> Newer cars also get much better mileage and the
> emissions are much lower.

In NJ no more inspection for older cars...theu give u a card to show cops.
U must keep vehicle road worthy.
No catalytic converters..I hope gerry gets xancer from my extra gas exhaust fumes!

I always pay cash. Just bought a new Denali last tear. $90k cash. Loans are stupid.

I like working on Volvos and mercedes because the people that hold onto them have great diy repair forums. You can find pictures and step by step directions for almost any repair on these vehicles. Try to find forums on Honda Odyssey - slim pickings. Soccer moms dont have the time or inclination for diy.

I save thousands each year in labor fees. Stuff like my dad just broke his power sideview mirror on his Avalon. Dealer quoted $250 part and $180 labor. I spent $20 on a replacement glass mirror and repaired it for him in about 20 min.

Still, these days to get something with under 100k you are going to spend 15k. Pitty.

President Trump FTW! Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I always pay cash. Just bought a new Denali last
> tear. $90k cash. Loans are stupid.


Lol you will spend $1600 per month the first year in depreciation alone. Also your property taxes will be sky high. So you can drive in a giant SUV.

antiquecarsfor the weekend Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> antique cars Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Why do you buy a depreciating car if you are
> going
> > to complain about it? It's not hard to find
> older
> > cars that will hold their value or appreciate.
> > Your repair and maintenance costs might even be
> > lower than with a newer car. If the car is a
> > daily driver, you can't register it as an
> antique,
> > but you will still reap the benefits of the
> > personal property tax being zero and no
> emissions
> > inspections.
>
> Biggest reasons to avoid antique cars are
> 1. Safety
> 2. Pollution
> 3. Performance
> 4. Reliability
>
> Antique cars are classified as being 25 years or
> older - that means you are driving a 1992 model
> year or older. That is actually on the cusp of
> some pretty important safety technology.
> Personally I would drive a 1992 Lincoln Town Car,
> those were reliable (except for the front end and
> window regulators). Still. But lets be honest,
> if you are going to commute a 25 year old car is
> simply not going to last many years running 15k
> plus miles of local driving.
>
> Newer cars also get much better mileage and the
> emissions are much lower.

Safety may be a valid point due to lack of air bags. The other three reasons, no so much. You just need to select the right parts and have a competent person doing the work. I'm not necessarily referring to original-equipment restoration but rather modern engine, brakes, suspension, etc. You can have equivalent or better performance to a modern car. Emissions can be comparable to a modern car if you choose to add catalytic converters, etc. Reliability can theoretically be much better for a restored old car than a modern one. Modern cars have more components that can fail, and more of those components are made of plastic and cheap lightweight metals. If you modify an older car correctly and know what you are doing, it should be more reliable than anything off the assembly line.

My brother has been driving a 1960's Studebaker for over 25 years. It has been restored with modern interior, modern Chevy engine, modern brakes, air conditioning, etc. It looks like a modern car inside and out, and is extremely reliable.

spend spend spend Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> President Trump FTW! Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > I always pay cash. Just bought a new Denali
> last
> > tear. $90k cash. Loans are stupid.
>
>
> Lol you will spend $1600 per month the first year
> in depreciation alone. Also your property taxes
> will be sky high. So you can drive in a giant
> SUV.


Plus it makes no sense when you can get loans at 0% or trivial interest rates. Might as well use somebody else's money instead of tying up your own.

spend spend spend Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> President Trump FTW! Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > I always pay cash. Just bought a new Denali
> last
> > tear. $90k cash. Loans are stupid.
>
>
> Lol you will spend $1600 per month the first year
> in depreciation alone. Also your property taxes
> will be sky high. So you can drive in a giant
> SUV.

It's registered in Maryland, like all my vehicles. My horse trailer is registered in Maine. No property tax on vehicles.

^So you basically admit you are a crook and the rules don't apply to you.
You fucking bastard
pay your taxes!!

Comptroller of the Treasury Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> ^So you basically admit you are a crook and the
> rules don't apply to you.
> You fucking bastard
> pay your taxes!!

I do the same thing. I don't have any vehicles registered in Fairfax Co. I register them all out of state and cycle them through so that no vehicle is here more than half the time. No property tax, no emissions inspections, no decal fees. It's perfectly legal.

Not if you're paying 1.99 percent on a 4 year loan for 35k and paying like only $1200 in interest over the life of the loan.

Comptroller of the Treasury Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> ^So you basically admit you are a crook and the
> rules don't apply to you.
> You fucking bastard
> pay your taxes!!


The crook is the Fairfax County treasurer. There is nothing illegal that I am doing. My home in Fairfax County is tax exempt as well.

President Trump FTW! Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> spend spend spend Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > President Trump FTW! Wrote:
> >
> --------------------------------------------------
>
> > -----
> > > I always pay cash. Just bought a new Denali
> > last
> > > tear. $90k cash. Loans are stupid.
> >
> >
> > Lol you will spend $1600 per month the first
> year
> > in depreciation alone. Also your property
> taxes
> > will be sky high. So you can drive in a giant
> > SUV.
>
> It's registered in Maryland, like all my vehicles.
> My horse trailer is registered in Maine. No
> property tax on vehicles.


If you have 90k cash to throw at a car you should have excellent credit. Im guessing you are trolling here but they offer 0% loans for people that do not need the loans. Why tie up 90k that you could be earning interest on? That is $300/month you are simply throwing away in interest income.

Are you a rich stupid douchebag who inherited all ur money?

used car prices ARE NOT ALWAYS high

i got screwed on one "lesson learned purchase" when used car prices were all high back during obama and paid to get out (reason - so i didn't end up upside down in a big way due to any mishap)

but really? they aren't always high you can't go by 1 week or 1 month of pricing

fygux Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> used car prices ARE NOT ALWAYS high
>
> i got screwed on one "lesson learned purchase"
> when used car prices were all high back during
> obama and paid to get out (reason - so i didn't
> end up upside down in a big way due to any
> mishap)
>
> but really? they aren't always high you can't go
> by 1 week or 1 month of pricing

Your post resembles English so Ill have to approximate your meaning.

Truth be told 'cash for clunkers' was a disastrous move for the used car market. Before cash for clunkers in 2004 I purchased a 94 Town Car for 800 bucks off Craigslist. That car ran great till the wife rear ended someone and set off the air bags years later.

After the Obama program you couldnt get cheap used cars and the prices have remained high. Id like to know what you mean by not always high. Any decent used car will cost 15k minimum - a long cry from my $800 Townie

I'm on the Dave Ramsey Train. Save, and pay cash for a car new or used. The discount for cash is like crack at a dealer on the 30th of December.

Buy a 2017 while the '18's are being loaded off the truck and watch them beg you to take them.

My wife stays at home, puts 6,000 annually. Honda Accord, fully loaded. Next one in 10 years.

I find deals on Pick ups after I hit 125,000. I put 25K annually. I rotate every 5 years. We pay cash.

Last find was an 8 year old Truck with 32K miles from an old man.
Start looking well in advance.

Just bought 2009 RAV 4
One owner
dealer serviced
73,00 miles.
$9500

I'm good for at least 5 years

Avg payment $158/mo.

Paid cash in full

As long as you don't buy a GOVERNMENT BAILOUT car, GM, you should be good for at least 400k miles.

I buy cars with 200k on them for cheap.

My house is another story. It's Zillow value is $2.54 million.

I have never bought and most likely will never buy a new car -- just because of the depreciation factor. I have made money on every used car I have ever bought. It's not that difficult and doesn't require any magical skills. As mentioned above, antique and older cars are the best, but even newer used cars can be bought and sold at a profit.

Ever since that cars for clunkers bullshit used car prices escalated and never came back down. Then the GM bailout where Obama fucked over companies like GM and Chrysler and their unions they jacked prices.

Fuck liberal assholes.

400k Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> As long as you don't buy a GOVERNMENT BAILOUT car,
> GM, you should be good for at least 400k miles.
>
> I buy cars with 200k on them for cheap.
>
> My house is another story. It's Zillow value is
> $2.54 million.


smells of some serious bullshit there. a car driven 20k a year would be 20 years old before reaching 400k so you mean to tell us you drive 1997 high mileage cars and live in a 2.54 million dollar house. Bullshit. Id buy your story if it was 5 year old cars with 100k maybe.

nonsense Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> 400k Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > As long as you don't buy a GOVERNMENT BAILOUT
> car,
> > GM, you should be good for at least 400k miles.
> >
> > I buy cars with 200k on them for cheap.
> >
> > My house is another story. It's Zillow value is
> > $2.54 million.
>
>
> smells of some serious bullshit there. a car
> driven 20k a year would be 20 years old before
> reaching 400k so you mean to tell us you drive
> 1997 high mileage cars and live in a 2.54 million
> dollar house. Bullshit. Id buy your story if it
> was 5 year old cars with 100k maybe.

My house is valued at over $2 million also. All but one of my cars are 25+ years old, however they don't have that much mileage. But a lot of other people in the neighborhood have older cars as well.

Economics4Free Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I hate debt especially when its in a depreciating
> asset like a car. Do people really pay 400 bucks
> a month on a 7 year loan for a fucking vehicle
> that depreciates 10% per year - that is stupid.
>
> Guess Ill eventually find a single owner vehicle
> with high miles and service records - probably a
> volvo or toyota. I know volvos and toyotas are
> bombproof on reliability. SAD BAD

You don't look at a car as an investment in most cases, you're really purchasing a service - transportation.

Buy what you can easily afford and live a happy life :)

trumpitality Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> You don't look at a car as an investment in most
> cases, you're really purchasing a service -
> transportation.

Exactly. Buy what you need and what will make you satisfied. I bought a new Civic last year- people told me I was nuts for buying new, nuts for paying in cash, blah blah blah. Ya know what, its not an investment. If I wanted an investment, I'd buy an investment. I'm on the road alot and wanted a new car. Period. People take this stuff way too seriously.

Dave Ramsey Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I'm on the Dave Ramsey Train. Save, and pay cash
> for a car new or used. The discount for cash is
> like crack at a dealer on the 30th of December.
>


Ramsey is OK but that's pretty much bs other than whatever advantage it may bring you in just knowing that you're a serious buyer. Which you can get to other ways.

Dealers make money on the loans that they arrange for you and other fees and sales made during the financing part of the deal.

For that and other reasons, you should always completely negotiate the price of the car before ever talking about how you'll be paying for it. That way they're still holding out hope that they'll be able to sell you a more profitable loan or some other kick-ins during the financing talk when you're signing out.

If you research models and pricing it is not difficult to find used cars that will not depreciate much if any, or may even appreciate. You would only be on the hook for maintenance and repairs. Always pay cash. Cash talks.

I got a new car 13 years ago. I will be getting another new car in a couple of years. Depreciation is not a concern of mine; I buy the cars for my reliable transportation and enjoyment, and I keep them for at least 10 years. Plus, used cars that are only a couple of years old cost too much.

car collector Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> If you research models and pricing it is not
> difficult to find used cars that will not
> depreciate much if any, or may even appreciate.
> You would only be on the hook for maintenance and
> repairs. Always pay cash. Cash talks.


IM 56, owned cars since I was age 20 and in the 36 years Ive owned cars Ive only had payments 6 years. I did buy 2 cars new but after the first there was literally no thrill to it being new. One of only 2 cars I got rid of before it was towed to the graveyard was my 76 Chevette - I sold it to undercover cops in Newark. What a piece of shit that thing was (but it ran).

86 Accord went 230k before I got a Jeep Cherokee, Wrecked it. Volvo 740 w160k - Nanny totaled that one. Volvo 850 probably my shittest car, engine needed work I hadnt yet learned to do and I had small kids. 2002 Honda Odyssey - kept it 3 years till the kids grew out of rear facing car seats and sold that thing fast. Odyssey of that vintage were known to have terrible tranny problems around 70k - probably the worst value in a car I ever owned.

94 Town Car - awesome vehicle wife wrecked it. Now I have the 99 merc and 2004 volvo each over 210k. Made money on the Chevette, Cherokee, 740, 850, Town Car and spent 32k on the accord and Odyssey combined.

Bought the Merc for 3k and the 04 V70 for 7k. So thats $42,000 capital outlay for transportation over 36 years less the asset value of maybe 6k so call it $1,000 per year of driving in actual net cost car payments.

So under 100/month for 36 years for owning 2 cars 30 of those 36 years. Id say that is pretty good.

Antique cars are very good. I have a 1948 Ford V-8 convertible. It's easy to work on and the parts are out there. Until recently, you could get parts for any Ford made since 1903 FROM FORD. They sold off all of their old dies and back parts inventories a number of years ago, but the dies and parts are still out there. Thank good ness for the internet!

The car is very reliable. It runs on regular. I recently had the engine rebuilt so it will run on "white gas", now (what they used to call unleaded up to the 1970).

The only thing that requires more time is you do have to change the points, rotor and condenser. I never did have it converted to electronic ignition. I really don't want to.

400k Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> As long as you don't buy a GOVERNMENT BAILOUT car,
> GM, you should be good for at least 400k miles.


That is BULLSHIT. Simply not true.


>
> I buy cars with 200k on them for cheap.


That, I believe. Because they are DONE.

FNNXJ Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> 400k Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > As long as you don't buy a GOVERNMENT BAILOUT
> car,
> > GM, you should be good for at least 400k miles.
>
>
> That is BULLSHIT. Simply not true.
>
>
> >
> > I buy cars with 200k on them for cheap.
>
>
> That, I believe. Because they are DONE.

word. You can rebuild the engine and replace the tranny but the interior and AC will only last 250k that is if its high quality and maintained. Replacing leather, headliners and AC evaporators just isnt worth it on a car barely worth any one of those repairs let alone all of them combined.

Think about it, for a car to accrue high mileage like 400k you have to drive it a whole lot. The one exception to the rule is of course the venerable Lincoln Town Car - you will routinely see those for sale with 2-300k on them from people that drive them professionally for 40k mi per year. What amazing vehicles those are. If you maintain them and drive 40k per year yea you can go 400k and they will still look and drive decent.

townie Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> FNNXJ Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > 400k Wrote:
> >
> --------------------------------------------------
>
> > -----
> > > As long as you don't buy a GOVERNMENT BAILOUT
> > car,
> > > GM, you should be good for at least 400k
> miles.
> >
> >
> > That is BULLSHIT. Simply not true.
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I buy cars with 200k on them for cheap.
> >
> >
> > That, I believe. Because they are DONE.
>
> word. You can rebuild the engine and replace the
> tranny but the interior and AC will only last 250k
> that is if its high quality and maintained.
> Replacing leather, headliners and AC evaporators
> just isnt worth it on a car barely worth any one
> of those repairs let alone all of them combined.
>
>
> Think about it, for a car to accrue high mileage
> like 400k you have to drive it a whole lot. The
> one exception to the rule is of course the
> venerable Lincoln Town Car - you will routinely
> see those for sale with 2-300k on them from people
> that drive them professionally for 40k mi per
> year. What amazing vehicles those are. If you
> maintain them and drive 40k per year yea you can
> go 400k and they will still look and drive decent.

Headliner is not expensive. I recommend Seatco in Springfield. As for air conditioning, it is problematic trying to retrofit older systems to R134a and the performance will suffer. I recommend starting over with a Vintage Air system.

Antique cars are great and the older the car the less wires and hoses are there to begin with, but the greater need to replace them. It's actually not that difficult or expensive to replace and upgrade.

car collector Wrote:
------
> >
> > >
> Antique cars are great and the older the car the
> less wires and hoses are there to begin with, but
> the greater need to replace them. It's actually
> not that difficult or expensive to replace and
> upgrade.


For the hoses, at least, the antiques are better because:

1. You can actually see all of the hoses when you open the hood.
2. You can actually reach them.
3. There are only four: two to the radiator, two to the heater core.

The exception to #3, of course, is if you get a California car. In the 1960s, California required a retrofit of PCVs (they called it an "anti-smog device" back then) to all older cars. Of course, if you get a car manufactured in or after the late 1960s, they all have PCV, so there are some more hoses. Still, those aren't hard to change out, either,

lincolntowncar Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> fygux Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > used car prices ARE NOT ALWAYS high
> >
> > i got screwed on one "lesson learned purchase"
> > when used car prices were all high back during
> > obama and paid to get out (reason - so i didn't
> > end up upside down in a big way due to any
> > mishap)
> >
> > but really? they aren't always high you can't
> go
> > by 1 week or 1 month of pricing
>
> Your post resembles English so Ill have to
> approximate your meaning.
>
> Truth be told 'cash for clunkers' was a disastrous
> move for the used car market. Before cash for
> clunkers in 2004 I purchased a 94 Town Car for 800
> bucks off Craigslist. That car ran great till the
> wife rear ended someone and set off the air bags
> years later.
>
> After the Obama program you couldnt get cheap used
> cars and the prices have remained high. Id like
> to know what you mean by not always high. Any
> decent used car will cost 15k minimum - a long cry
> from my $800 Townie

yes, it was around then, the cheapest Truck listed i could find was $10,000+ for 200k high miles, more like $15 or $20 for <= 100,000 mi.

Trucks can be picked up for a few k, if one has the patience.

car collector Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> townie Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > FNNXJ Wrote:
> >
> --------------------------------------------------
>
> > -----
> > > 400k Wrote:

>
> Headliner is not expensive. I recommend Seatco in
> Springfield. As for air conditioning, it is
> problematic trying to retrofit older systems to
> R134a and the performance will suffer. I
> recommend starting over with a Vintage Air
> system.
>
> Antique cars are great and the older the car the
> less wires and hoses are there to begin with, but
> the greater need to replace them. It's actually
> not that difficult or expensive to replace and
> upgrade.

Headliner job for most vehicles with a sunroof is 800 bucks (its labor intensive to remove the pillars, drill the rivets, pull the headliner, scrape the headliner and re-install). new leather covers for a car is 2000-3000 bucks. New AC system and/or evap replacement is 1600-2000 bucks. Labor on evaporators in the dash is 1200 alone.

You seem to want to confuse 'antique car' with 'High mileage car' Restoring and maintaining low mileage antique cars is a wonderful hobby but has nothing to do with day to day commuting. No one drives investment antiques 20,000 mi a year in commuter traffic - it would destroy the value of the vehicle.

To the point, no car with 300k mi. is worth putting 6,000 dollars into for interior and AC (mind you that assumes the engine and transmission and suspension are ok).

Please, enjoy your wonderful showroom antiques but stop bull shitting about sinking thousands into your 400k mile 'antiques' because its such a value. you dont do that, no one believes you do that and its nonsense.

pcuhm Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> lincolntowncar Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > fygux Wrote:
> >
> --------------------------------------------------
>
> > -----
> > > used car prices ARE NOT ALWAYS high
> > >
> > > i got screwed on one "lesson learned
> purchase"
> > > when used car prices were all high back
> during
> > > obama and paid to get out (reason - so i
> didn't
> > > end up upside down in a big way due to any
> > > mishap)
> > >
> > > but really? they aren't always high you
> can't
> > go
> > > by 1 week or 1 month of pricing
> >
> > Your post resembles English so Ill have to
> > approximate your meaning.
> >
> > Truth be told 'cash for clunkers' was a
> disastrous
> > move for the used car market. Before cash for
> > clunkers in 2004 I purchased a 94 Town Car for
> 800
> > bucks off Craigslist. That car ran great till
> the
> > wife rear ended someone and set off the air
> bags
> > years later.
> >
> > After the Obama program you couldnt get cheap
> used
> > cars and the prices have remained high. Id
> like
> > to know what you mean by not always high. Any
> > decent used car will cost 15k minimum - a long
> cry
> > from my $800 Townie
>
> yes, it was around then, the cheapest Truck listed
> i could find was $10,000+ for 200k high miles,
> more like $15 or $20 for <= 100,000 mi.
>
> Trucks can be picked up for a few k, if one has
> the patience.

Used 2000 Ford E-150 and Econoline 150 196kmi $2000.00 What a great car. Get before its gone https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=452896161&zip=22003&referrer=%2Fcars-for-sale%2Fsearchresults.xhtml%3Fzip%3D22003%26showcaseOwnerId%3D73091%26startYear%3D1981%26sortBy%3DderivedpriceASC%26incremental%3Dall%26firstRecord%3D0%26endYear%3D2018%26modelCodeList%3DE150ECON%26makeCodeList%3DFORD%26searchRadius%3D25&startYear=1981&numRecords=25&firstRecord=0&endYear=2018&modelCodeList=E150ECON&makeCodeList=FORD&searchRadius=25&makeCode1=FORD&modelCode1=E150ECON

antiqueCars will Run million mi Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Please, enjoy your wonderful showroom antiques but
> stop bull shitting about sinking thousands into
> your 400k mile 'antiques' because its such a
> value. you dont do that, no one believes you do
> that and its nonsense.


lol, like who the hell goes out, buys an antique car, fixes it up, just so they can get to work and the store?

More people than you think. It is not much different than going out and buying a high end sedan or SUV and using it to go to work or take the kids to soccer practice. Quite often the car isn't restored to auto show quality. Sometimes it has been upgraded with features not found in the original car. I have seen more than one 1960s muscle car with aftermarket electronic ignition.

Yea restoring a 25 year old car with 400,000 miles on it for daily commute is probably one of stupidest ideas I have ever heard of.

but you would be how many people are doing it! You would be surprised how reliable and safe a 1990 Accord with 400k on it is. Rides great and very good for cross country trips and daily commutes as well. I just dropped 10 Grand on a new interior, tires, AC, Transmission and engine.

I thought about getting a Used 2009 Honda Accord LX-S Coupe with 82k on it for the same money but I wanted a classic! Besides with a new engine and new transmission by 1990 Accord will probably break 800,000 miles and Ill make a lot of money as it appreciates as an antique!

Boring car with some modern stuff and 80k miles I could have had for the same money - how ordinary!

Most people who buy Hondas are gay; very gay.

Why would you buy a 1990 Accord with 400,000 miles and spend $10,000 fixing it when you could own a 2009 Accord with 80,000 miles? 1990 car may be called an 'antique' but it is a piece of shit and certainly not worth the ten thousand you put into it fixing up.

wtf? who would do this?

ooffr Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> DanKnows Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Serious Question:
> >
> > Why do people lease cars? How can that make
> sense
> > financially?
>
>
> I lease cars cuz I have no time working on cars
> and no money and I always like the new models. Im
> lookin at leases or purchases and its way too
> high.


I do ultra low mileage leases because I get a company car for my work related travel. I only drive the leased car on weekends and out of town trips. I get a brand new car every 36 months. My vehicles are always under warranty and the maintenance is included in my lease payment. I have never gone over the miles on a lease. The dealer I use comes to my house and gets my car when the scheduled maintenance is due and they even wash and wax it before returning it to my garage.

My n55 has 190,000 miles on it, I have spent under $2000 in repairs to get it there so far. Whichever brand/model you go with you're going to have to research that specific engine and tranny to see what issues there are. There many BMWs I wouldn't dare own outside of a warranty, and others I would have no issues owning for 20 years. The same applies for just about any make/model, though less so with the boring Asian cars. Life is too short to drive a FWD 4 banger with a slushbox.

Anyone who drives a Volvo is a clueless libtard whackoff.

ANyone who drives a BMW is an arrogant asswipe.

Like Honda drivers, BMW and Volvo drivers are gay; VERY gay.

Looking to make $10 so I can put some rims on my Cavalier. Anyone here want to meet up? I give really good head, and I swallow!

lover of straight sixes Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> My n55 has 190,000 miles on it, I have spent under
> $2000 in repairs to get it there so far. Whichever
> brand/model you go with you're going to have to
> research that specific engine and tranny to see
> what issues there are. There many BMWs I wouldn't
> dare own outside of a warranty, and others I would
> have no issues owning for 20 years. The same
> applies for just about any make/model, though less
> so with the boring Asian cars. Life is too short
> to drive a FWD 4 banger with a slushbox.

190k should be 2 new sets of tires by now - that would be $1200 alone with alignment. Even if you do your own oil/filter changes at extended intervals that would be 25x $60 = $1,500 so no one believes you have spent only $2000 on a BMW over the last 8 years (nn55 began production in 2009). Why lie about it?

Even if you spent $5000 (more likely) in repairs over 5 years past warranty that is pretty great. The n55 was a great improvement over the n54 - a real piece of shit.

I have a friend who is a BMW tech and he advised against buying any BMW because of water infiltration and electrical issues on ALL models. You drive a shit-ton and no doubt garage your car at work and home - good for you.

I totally agree about researching the specific engine and tranny of any vehicle. Toyotas of course it really doesnt matter unless you purchase the runt Tacoma. Volvo is notable for matching some over powered engines with weak transmissions resulting in disaster. However, get a good Volvo pairing and you will drive for 300k mi.

Again its impossible to believe a claim of $2k over 190 miles - it cannot be true. Nonetheless minimal repair fees over 190k are a great outcome if you are careful about picking your motor and transmission combo

$2,000 in repairs .

Keywords : repairs

But anyways yes way more than $2000 on maintenance items (Tires, Fluids, Pads/Rotors). Though all very reasonable if you DIY, contrary to what you hear from people who have never worked on German cars, it's not any harder to do basic maintenance on a German car vs American or Asian cars. It's still 1 bolt to change the diff, engine or trans fluid, you don't have to by a master mechanic.

As for repairs done, water pump/thermostat and valve cover gasket.

OilChangesAre More Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> lover of straight sixes Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
>
> I have a friend who is a BMW tech and he advised
> against buying any BMW because of water
> infiltration and electrical issues on ALL models.
> You drive a shit-ton and no doubt garage your car
> at work and home - good for you.
>

I hang out on the bimmerforums a lot, and have never heard that one. I do remember hearing about the trunk leaking on older BMWs E4x and leaks on the convertible E93s. My car is only garaged when I'm on vacation, which is under 10% of the time. I have had 0 electrical issues and I've even messed with things quite a bit (JB4).

lover of straight sixes Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> But anyways yes way more than $2000 on maintenance
> items (Tires, Fluids, Pads/Rotors). Though all
> very reasonable if you DIY, contrary to what you
> hear from people who have never worked on German
> cars, it's not any harder to do basic maintenance
> on a German car vs American or Asian cars. It's
> still 1 bolt to change the diff, engine or trans
> fluid, you don't have to by a master mechanic.
>
> As for repairs done, water pump/thermostat and
> valve cover gasket.

You must not own or work on Porsches. Most American cars don't require you to put the carrier in your oven in order to change the wheel bearings. I could list a few more things as well.

The average cost of maintaining and repair is 5 cents per mile. Not 'counting' oil, brakes, lamps, belts and fluids is a creative way to claim low cost.

You should be on your 3rd accessory belt and tensioner. Of course your 2nd or 3rd set of brakes; you should have had fluids in breaks, steering, transmission and cooling replaced at least once. Have your headlights lasted 190k miles - wow.

Is replacing a muffler at 180k a 'repair' or just replacement of a worn part? Brakes? Is it a 'repair' when you need new brakes or just maintenance? Most people would say your brakes are a repair but maybe not.

You didnt mention if you do your own work - Ive assumed you do and use the cheapest oil and parts. If you have a high performance BMW with even average repair consider yourself extremely lucky my good friend...

I work on my Benz e320 and volvo v70 - not bad at all once you get metric tools and torx sockets and bits. 4matic is pretty snug in the engine compartment in some places but wide open in others. Still cannot get to the driver side front motor mount :(

Problem with these cars is it can be hard to find an indie that doesnt rip you off to work on them if you need a lift or simply dont feel like it. Some times I get lazy and call for a repair price quote and end up laughing at them. They want to charge 140/hr for the number hours it would take me to do the job. Ultimately I do it myself, go buy some new tools as a reward and save tons.

No one should bother owning a German car past warranty if they dont work on them themselves it doesnt make financial sense.

Repairs are no doubt a lot more complicated, however basic maintenance is about the same. I have only done some basic things on Caymans, which were easy.


Brakes and brake fluid would definitely be a maintenance item. If you're under warranty you cannot go to the dealership saying your rotors are broken because they are worn. The same goes for windshield wipers, bulbs, batteries, filters, tires, fluids etc. Now if you're under warranty and go to the dealership and have issues with your muffler, say an exhaust leak. Yes that would be covered under warranty, and would be considered a repair. The exhaust is made to last the entire life of the vehicle, brakes aren't.

I do my own work yes, and I do not use the cheapest parts unless it's a fog light bulb or something minor.

identifier of butt pirates Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Looking to make $10 so I can put some rims on my
> Cavalier. Anyone here want to meet up? I give
> really good head, and I swallow!


This impostor is obviously a clueless whackoff pantyboy SAAB driver who is an expert fellator. He also likes to get boned up the asshole but demands reach around. Talk about high maintenance.

lover of straight sixes Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Repairs are no doubt a lot more
> complicated, however basic maintenance is
> about the same. I have only done some basic things
> on Caymans, which were easy.
>
>
> Brakes and brake fluid would definitely be a
> maintenance item. If you're under warranty you
> cannot go to the dealership saying your rotors are
> broken because they are worn. The same goes for
> windshield wipers, bulbs, batteries, filters,
> tires, fluids etc. Now if you're under warranty
> and go to the dealership and have issues with your
> muffler, say an exhaust leak. Yes that would be
> covered under warranty, and would be considered a
> repair. The exhaust is made to last the entire
> life of the vehicle, brakes aren't.
>
> I do my own work yes, and I do not use the
> cheapest parts unless it's a fog light bulb or
> something minor.


All maintenance will become a repair if not done. You do not maintain brakes (except for bleeding when you change the fluid). You install brakes and replace them when worn - repair/replace. There is no real way to maintain filters (I suppose you can bang the dust out of an air filter between changes) - you replace them. Dont know what planet you live on but cars last 20 years; exhaust systems will last half of that if you are lucky and dont drive where road salt is used.

Modern batteries are mostly maintenance-free. Some you check the water level every year or so. You dont maintain a battery when you replace it - that is repair/replace. You do maintain tires by regular balancing rotating and checking air pressure; buying new tires is not maintenance. Tires last about 60kmiles.

No way to maintain bulbs - you replace when broken. Your comments about warranty are moot not because brakes are not a repair item but rather because all warranties include 'normal wear and tear' clauses. If your brakes are worn on a new car with less than 5k miles you would get covered because something is wrong - repair. If you go in at 30k and they are worn its still a repair but not covered under most warranties as it would be normal wear and tear.

I know you want to claim your beauty is free from almost all repair after 190k but its just not. That said it sounds like you have a great car anyway.

http://monkeysee.com/auto-maintenance-vs-repair/#1463592099829-faf129a1-6678

1. Go to consumer reports pick one of the best reliable cars
2. Find same with one owner and good records no accidents driven in states in the south but not near the ocean nor flood prone areas.
3. Drive car have inspected by indie
4. purchase car and take care of it.

It doesnt matter if its 2 or 8 years old if the history is good, one owner, no accidents and a CR best reliability you have done all you can do. A one owner car that is 8 years old with maintenance records means the car will have worn normally. Avoid areas with floods. A local MD or VA car is perfect.

Also you can look at wear patterns in seats and rugs to see how well the car was treated. Drivers seat half crushed but only 40k mi - either the mileage is bogus or the driver is obese. Fat drivers treat their cars like their bodies.

If you are looking on craigslist avoid curbsiders. Look for pictures that show the license plates and a residence. Cars shown in industrial lots or repair bays or with the plates physically removed are usually curbsiders. Avoid.

anyone can.

beeee goooood Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> 1. Go to consumer reports pick one of the best
> reliable cars
>

Condemner Reports doesn't like anything unless it's a Lexus, Toyota, Mercedes-Benz or Audi. It's why I never pay any attention to anything Condemner Reports has to say about cars.

Detector of Morons Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> beeee goooood Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > 1. Go to consumer reports pick one of the best
> > reliable cars
> >
>
> Condemner Reports doesn't like anything
> unless it's a Lexus, Toyota, Mercedes-Benz or
> Audi. It's why I never pay any attention to
> anything Condemner Reports has to say
> about cars.


A Lexus is nothing but a Toyota with a fancy price tag. Anyone who drives an Audi proclaims to the world what an extreme moron he is. Anyone who pays for a Mercedes-Benz and accepts a Volkswagen can't be anything but an extreme moron.

identifier of butt pirates Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Ds.
>
>
> A Lexus is nothing but a Toyota with a fancy
> price tag.



"Lexus" is Japanese for "how to get a negro to pay more for a Toyota".

toyota is reliable but boring

lexus is reliable less boring and nice inside

Audi's are currently making the best mass market vehicles reliable and they perform

VW's are excellent inside and drive well but can be prone to breakdown and their manufacturer is a cheating whore paying a billion in fines for cheating emissions

The guy claiming 25 year old cars with 400k miles are good buys is a dunce.

WHY WORRY ABOUT YOUR PAY

drive like the wind Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> toyota is reliable but boring
>
> lexus is reliable less boring and nice inside
>
> Audi's are currently making the best mass market
> vehicles reliable and they perform
>
> VW's are excellent inside and drive well but can
> be prone to breakdown and their manufacturer is a
> cheating whore paying a billion in fines for
> cheating emissions
>
> The guy claiming 25 year old cars with 400k miles
> are good buys is a dunce.

Audi and VW are the same and depending on year so is Porsche.

I just sold my 2003 GMC Denali with $415k miles on it for $2500. It was a super nice truck. They got a deal.

GMC DENALI 400K Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I just sold my 2003 GMC Denali with $415k miles on
> it for $2500. It was a super nice truck. They got
> a deal

It will probably be a great commuter car in another 11 years too! Antiques with super high mileage make the best every day cars. And no, they paid what the truck was worth - 6 months gas money for you. BTW why drive a vehicle that size 30k per year?

Economics4Free Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I own 2 cars each with over 200k on them. They
> are 1999 and 2004 model years. They both are
> reliable and run well (Volvo and Mercedes). I do
> my own work and repair them once or twice each
> year. Struts for one car one year, brakes every 3
> years, and the odd switch or belt now and then.
>
> I often look at cars thinking one day one of mine
> will give out and Ill be forced to buy one. How
> do people do it? Used shit-boxes are 10-15 grand.
> If you want a good used car its 20-25k. Im not
> about to buy a cheap pos scion or civic or some
> shit either. When I buy a car I expect it to last
> 15 years and 225k miles.
>
> I hate debt especially when its in a depreciating
> asset like a car. Do people really pay 400 bucks
> a month on a 7 year loan for a fucking vehicle
> that depreciates 10% per year - that is stupid.
>
> Guess Ill eventually find a single owner vehicle
> with high miles and service records - probably a
> volvo or toyota. I know volvos and toyotas are
> bombproof on reliability. SAD BAD

I have a friend who has a 70 month car loan and the payments are over $600/month. He thinks thats normal.

TVHPV Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Economics4Free Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > I own 2 cars each with over 200k on them. They
> > are 1999 and 2004 model years. They both are
> > reliable and run well (Volvo and Mercedes). I
> do
> > my own work and repair them once or twice each
> > year. Struts for one car one year, brakes every
> 3
> > years, and the odd switch or belt now and then.
> >
> > I often look at cars thinking one day one of
> mine
> > will give out and Ill be forced to buy one.
> How
> > do people do it? Used shit-boxes are 10-15
> grand.
> > If you want a good used car its 20-25k. Im
> not
> > about to buy a cheap pos scion or civic or some
> > shit either. When I buy a car I expect it to
> last
> > 15 years and 225k miles.
> >
> > I hate debt especially when its in a
> depreciating
> > asset like a car. Do people really pay 400
> bucks
> > a month on a 7 year loan for a fucking vehicle
> > that depreciates 10% per year - that is stupid.
> >
> > Guess Ill eventually find a single owner
> vehicle
> > with high miles and service records - probably
> a
> > volvo or toyota. I know volvos and toyotas are
> > bombproof on reliability. SAD BAD
>
> I have a friend who has a 70 month car loan and
> the payments are over $600/month. He thinks thats
> normal.

My God. Ironically, I think it is the norm. My first mortgage payment was $710/month on my condo in Arlington. bought it for 105k sold it for 235k 10 yrs later. Your friend will have his pud in his hand in 70 months and nothing to show for 42k payments except a 15k vehicle. That makes no sense.

Every three years or so my brother in law buys himself a new BMW. His theory is that since the monthly payments are roughly the same, why shouldn't he be driving something newer and better. That he will always be making car payments does not bother him. Aside from one leased car for work I have never had a car that I didn't pay cash for. The idea that I would finance something that would be upside down when I drove it off the lot just makes no sense to me.

If you have $15-20k and are looking for reliable transportation you should have little difficulty finding a reliable late model car or truck in good shape, most likely coming off lease, with a decent warranty. Since with used cars your selection is limited to what is on the lot, you either need to be open to a wider range of choices or you have to have a longer time frame for acquiring the car.

Someone mentioned cars with 400k miles. A friend of mine opts for finding much older cars with frames and bodies in good shape. He drops in a new engine and rebuilds the transmission and brakes, and for a reliable and relatively low cost he has something interesting that he can use for driving around town. If you are not willing to put some work into it though, buying a much older and higher mileage car only makes sense if you are getting it cheap enough that you can walk away from it if it craps out.

Bill.N. Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Every three years or so my brother in law buys
> himself a new BMW. His theory is that since the
> monthly payments are roughly the same, why
> shouldn't he be driving something newer and
> better. That he will always be making car
> payments does not bother him. Aside from one
> leased car for work I have never had a car that I
> didn't pay cash for. The idea that I would
> finance something that would be upside down when I
> drove it off the lot just makes no sense to me.
>
> If you have $15-20k and are looking for reliable
> transportation you should have little difficulty
> finding a reliable late model car or truck in good
> shape, most likely coming off lease, with a decent
> warranty. Since with used cars your selection is
> limited to what is on the lot, you either need to
> be open to a wider range of choices or you have to
> have a longer time frame for acquiring the car.
>
> Someone mentioned cars with 400k miles. A friend
> of mine opts for finding much older cars with
> frames and bodies in good shape. He drops in a
> new engine and rebuilds the transmission and
> brakes, and for a reliable and relatively low cost
> he has something interesting that he can use for
> driving around town. If you are not willing to put
> some work into it though, buying a much older and
> higher mileage car only makes sense if you are
> getting it cheap enough that you can walk away
> from it if it craps out.

Your buddy likes working on cars - cool. If he has the equipment to pull and rebuild Transmission and Engines he is a pretty exclusive class of car owner. Even still that will cost him a lot of his time and some money. So if he likes it I doubt he would car if his rebuilt engine or tranny blows he just pulls them again.

I agree very old high mileage cars should be considered disposable. Ive said goodbye to some loved cars because they were simply not worth fixing. Also going on long road trips with very old high mileage cars presents the problem of what do you do if it goes far from home? If you rent and return home you quickly eat up any savings you may have experienced from buying a cheap car to begin with.

Belle Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>
> Your buddy likes working on cars - cool. If he
> has the equipment to pull and rebuild Transmission
> and Engines he is a pretty exclusive class of car
> owner. Even still that will cost him a lot of his
> time and some money. So if he likes it I doubt he
> would car if his rebuilt engine or tranny blows he
> just pulls them again.

He is a bit of a car nut and his idea of fun is to go to auctions and see what is available. He doesn't own much special equipment but does have access to it. He told me his last acquisition took him two months of Sunday work to make road ready.

> My God. Ironically, I think it is the norm. My
> first mortgage payment was $710/month on my condo
> in Arlington. bought it for 105k sold it for 235k
> 10 yrs later. Your friend will have his pud in
> his hand in 70 months and nothing to show for 42k
> payments except a 15k vehicle. That makes no
> sense.

when the cost of rent is higher than it needs to be, that's called 'economic rent', and it's drivers and it's effects is a whole subject in economics

yes if you need $1,000 for rent since all area housing is high - government has to pay you more than $1,000 and it snowballs

Belle Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Bill.N. Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Every three years or so my brother in law buys
> > himself a new BMW. His theory is that since
> the
> > monthly payments are roughly the same, why
> > shouldn't he be driving something newer and
> > better. That he will always be making car
> > payments does not bother him. Aside from one
> > leased car for work I have never had a car that
> I
> > didn't pay cash for. The idea that I would
> > finance something that would be upside down when
> I
> > drove it off the lot just makes no sense to me.
> >
> > If you have $15-20k and are looking for
> reliable
> > transportation you should have little
> difficulty
> > finding a reliable late model car or truck in
> good
> > shape, most likely coming off lease, with a
> decent
> > warranty. Since with used cars your selection
> is
> > limited to what is on the lot, you either need
> to
> > be open to a wider range of choices or you have
> to
> > have a longer time frame for acquiring the car.
> >
> > Someone mentioned cars with 400k miles. A
> friend
> > of mine opts for finding much older cars with
> > frames and bodies in good shape. He drops in a
> > new engine and rebuilds the transmission and
> > brakes, and for a reliable and relatively low
> cost
> > he has something interesting that he can use
> for
> > driving around town. If you are not willing to
> put
> > some work into it though, buying a much older
> and
> > higher mileage car only makes sense if you are
> > getting it cheap enough that you can walk away
> > from it if it craps out.
>
> Your buddy likes working on cars - cool. If he
> has the equipment to pull and rebuild Transmission
> and Engines he is a pretty exclusive class of car
> owner. Even still that will cost him a lot of his
> time and some money. So if he likes it I doubt he
> would car if his rebuilt engine or tranny blows he
> just pulls them again.
>
> I agree very old high mileage cars should be
> considered disposable. Ive said goodbye to some
> loved cars because they were simply not worth
> fixing. Also going on long road trips with very
> old high mileage cars presents the problem of what
> do you do if it goes far from home? If you rent
> and return home you quickly eat up any savings you
> may have experienced from buying a cheap car to
> begin with.

obviously you'd pay to drop in a rebuilt trans and engine (both with warrantee, they come with warrantees) if the carriage is ok

if rust protected, glass is ok, interior is not shot, maybe so

if it's been in the salt belt and not rust protected (not carefully hosed after each salt road excursion), has a cracked window, interior is shot ...

then whoever paid $2,500 for a 414k mi car got a really bad deal

ulxdb Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> > My God. Ironically, I think it is the norm. My
> > first mortgage payment was $710/month on my
> condo
> > in Arlington. bought it for 105k sold it for
> 235k
> > 10 yrs later. Your friend will have his pud in
> > his hand in 70 months and nothing to show for
> 42k
> > payments except a 15k vehicle. That makes no
> > sense.
>
> when the cost of rent is higher than it needs to
> be, that's called 'economic rent', and it's
> drivers and it's effects is a whole subject in
> economics
>
> yes if you need $1,000 for rent since all area
> housing is high - government has to pay you more
> than $1,000 and it snowballs

I think you may have missed the point. Poster was explaining the value he got from paying a mortgage payment about the same as someone is paying in a car loan. He wasnt talking about housing costs per se just paying 42k over 70 months for a vehicle is stupid.

TVHPV Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I have a friend who has a 70 month car loan and
> the payments are over $600/month. He thinks thats
> normal.

What kind of car is it?

I can't

Car with 2-4 years and under 70k miles will be good for me for 10 year if I maintain it. I save by letting someone else eat 20-40% depreciation. No reason to give away 20% on a new car depreciation.

People gotta pay 1200 a month for a shitty little audi s4 to look good. Everyone around here is hood rich.

Seen interest rates at 27% Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> People gotta pay 1200 a month for a shitty little
> audi s4 to look good.


Nobody looks good in an Audi. You only look like not just a standard moron, but a REALLY STUPID IDIOTIC MORON. Only a really stupid idiotic moron would pay for a Mercedes-Banz and accept a Volkswagen.

President Trump FTW! Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> spend spend spend Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > President Trump FTW! Wrote:
> >
> --------------------------------------------------
>
> > -----
> > > I always pay cash. Just bought a new Denali
> > last
> > > tear. $90k cash. Loans are stupid.
> >
> >
> > Lol you will spend $1600 per month the first
> year
> > in depreciation alone. Also your property
> taxes
> > will be sky high. So you can drive in a giant
> > SUV.
>
> It's registered in Maryland, like all my vehicles.
> My horse trailer is registered in Maine. No
> property tax on vehicles.

Do you pay property tax on the three beach houses?

If people couldn't afford buying cars, there wouldn't be any new cars.

Sophia777 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> If people couldn't afford buying cars, there
> wouldn't be any new cars.


I agree. Every market has its buyers and sellers. moreover, there exist special offers, discounts, sales, and of course, loans. I personally dealt with gm financial https://gm-financial.pissedconsumer.com/review.html and could get a car at a good price. This company provides auto loan financing through auto dealers across the U.S. and Canada. It was a great way out for me as my old car broke down, and I didn't want to invest in its repair anymore.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/17/2022 11:56AM by Frank7788.

Cars aren't good for much anymore but they are good for a few things ..........

Frank7788 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Sophia777 Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > If people couldn't afford buying cars, there
> > wouldn't be any new cars.
>
>
> I agree. Every market has its buyers and sellers.
> moreover, there exist special offers, discounts,
> sales, and of course, loans. I personally dealt
> with gm financial
> https://gm-financial.pissedconsumer.com/review.htm
> l and could get a car at a good price. This
> company provides auto loan financing through auto
> dealers across the U.S. and Canada. It was a great
> way out for me as my old car broke down, and I
> didn't want to invest in its repair anymore.

Eat shit and die spammer




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