the unit sounds like its working normal. it blows cold air downstairs and 1st floor but 2nd floor i cant feel anything. there is condensation on the inside unit. could

any ideas?

turn the unit off and remove the filter see if the evaporator is frozen or partially frozen . If it is you likely either have a low charge or an obstruction ie a very dirty filter or filters.

Thanks Skeet

Calling for a contractor tomm.
The filter is less than 2 months and looks decent. Weird how the cold air vents in the basement but cant make it upstairs. Just hope the bill isnt too much

I've noticed the same sort of problem in my townhouse in the past. It turned out that the unit that came with the house was not sufficient enough to cool the entire home. I ended up putting in box fans in my windows on the 2nd floor and it feels good!

McHale's Navy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I've noticed the same sort of problem in my
> townhouse in the past. It turned out that the unit
> that came with the house was not sufficient enough
> to cool the entire home. I ended up putting in box
> fans in my windows on the 2nd floor and it feels
> good!


my wifes parents use to do that. Seems like a good idea pulling the air up to where you want it. The basement is always nice and brisk while the 3rd floor is a meh. I think we will give the box fan a shot even after we repair the a/c unit

thanks

To clean the coil yourself, you can try this stuff (I found it at Home Depot)

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/appliances/air-conditioners-fans-dehumidifiers/ac-safe/foam-coil-cleaner-22963.html

And follow these instructions:

http://www.handymanhowto.com/2009/06/28/how-to-clean-air-conditioner-evaporator-coils-part-1/

I've used that foaming coil cleaner before - just last summer actually. My coils were quite clean when I started because our filters are not at the furnace level, but are at the wall / ceiling level and I change the filters frequently. Plus, I use the pleated filters - and NEVER those blue spun fiberglass filters.

Now, if this user's system is low on freon, that's another story. One can buy a set of manifold gauges for under $50 and connect the hoses to their lines and try to check the pressure and temperature while the unit is running (you'll find this procedure on the Internet.)

If the system is an R-22-based freon system from 8-9 years ago or more, the freon is quite costly. I had to get 5 Lbs. of it last fall in one of my systems. It was $75.00 a Lb. from my regular A/C guy - who is very reasonable. However, I also learned just last week from another A/C guy - who works for another company that they were charging $125.00 a Lb.

Another benefit to the manifold gauges, is that if you are low on freon, you can find 30 Lb. cylinders for sale on Craigslist. Just make sure you're getting some new freon and not that "reclaimed" crap from old A/C systems. But ... with a warning, that the Gubment agencies really regulate this crap and normally a CFC certification is required to buy it legally. However, what you do via Craigslist and who you meet in a parking lot is no one else's business - as far as I'm concerned.

Its hot Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Thanks Skeet
>
> Calling for a contractor tomm.
> The filter is less than 2 months and looks decent.
> Weird how the cold air vents in the basement but
> cant make it upstairs. Just hope the bill isnt
> too much


Be carefull many NoVa A/C companies are screwjob operations esp. ones with full page ads in the yellow pages. See previous thread.

http://www.fairfaxunderground.com/forum/read/2/370169/604705.html#msg-604705

Good Stuff Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I've used that foaming coil cleaner before - just
> last summer actually. My coils were quite clean
> when I started because our filters are not at the
> furnace level, but are at the wall / ceiling level
> and I change the filters frequently. Plus, I use
> the pleated filters - and NEVER those blue spun
> fiberglass filters.
>
> Now, if this user's system is low on freon, that's
> another story. One can buy a set of manifold
> gauges for under $50 and connect the hoses to
> their lines and try to check the pressure and
> temperature while the unit is running (you'll find
> this procedure on the Internet.)
>
> If the system is an R-22-based freon system from
> 8-9 years ago or more, the freon is quite costly.
> I had to get 5 Lbs. of it last fall in one of my
> systems. It was $75.00 a Lb. from my regular A/C
> guy - who is very reasonable. However, I also
> learned just last week from another A/C guy - who
> works for another company that they were charging
> $125.00 a Lb.
>
> Another benefit to the manifold gauges, is that if
> you are low on freon, you can find 30 Lb.
> cylinders for sale on Craigslist. Just make sure
> you're getting some new freon and not that
> "reclaimed" crap from old A/C systems. But ...
> with a warning, that the Gubment agencies really
> regulate this crap and normally a CFC
> certification is required to buy it legally.
> However, what you do via Craigslist and who you
> meet in a parking lot is no one else's business -
> as far as I'm concerned.


the model is a york diamond 80

looks like this
http://www.bigtexair.com/products/diamond80/diamond80_page1.htm

My guess is that you're low on freon. I had the same thing happen 2 years ago. Turns out that I had a big time leak (it was gone again within 3 hours) and needed a new unit and interior coil. Quite pricey. Was not expecting to have to write a $4,500 check that summer.

Just another lesson learned to pass on to the younger kids getting started - put aside a little each month in an account (that you DON'T touch) for expenses that could be years down the road. Orthodontics is one. A/C & furnace replacement and roof replacement are others. $50/month doesn't seem like much, but it adds up and could help with sticker shock.

__________________________________
That's not a ladybug, that's a cannapiller.

Warhawk Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> My guess is that you're low on freon. I had the
> same thing happen 2 years ago. Turns out that I
> had a big time leak (it was gone again within 3
> hours) and needed a new unit and interior coil.
> Quite pricey. Was not expecting to have to write
> a $4,500 check that summer.
>
> Just another lesson learned to pass on to the
> younger kids getting started - put aside a little
> each month in an account (that you DON'T touch)
> for expenses that could be years down the road.
> Orthodontics is one. A/C & furnace replacement
> and roof replacement are others. $50/month
> doesn't seem like much, but it adds up and could
> help with sticker shock.


wow...i pray it isnt anything like that.

a/c worked great last summer and was strong until a few weeks ago. I think you're right with the freon being low. Just hope there isnt a leak anywhere near as bad as yours.

Warhawk Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> My guess is that you're low on freon. I had the
> same thing happen 2 years ago. Turns out that I
> had a big time leak (it was gone again within 3
> hours) and needed a new unit and interior coil.
> Quite pricey. Was not expecting to have to write
> a $4,500 check that summer.
>
> Just another lesson learned to pass on to the
> younger kids getting started - put aside a little
> each month in an account (that you DON'T touch)
> for expenses that could be years down the road.
> Orthodontics is one. A/C & furnace replacement
> and roof replacement are others. $50/month
> doesn't seem like much, but it adds up and could
> help with sticker shock.

It is common for the scam A/c companies to always reccomend a new system. If you just had a leak, they should have found the leak and repaired it, for 100-300 dollars. But instead they just install a new system saying it will be faster since they can't get the parts for the repair for another 2 weeks.

I'll bet that the unit you have uses R-22 freon. While my York heat pump required 5 Lbs. of freon last fall, it remains fully charged as of last weekend - or a little over 6 months. I feel very fortunate that this is the case.

However, if your coil inside of your air handler is failing with a major leak, the A/C companies can't get a replacement R-22 coil. If that's the case, you'll be looking at a whole new unit. Both components - inside and outside, because you'll have to utilize the new "environmentally friendly" freon.

Ironically, I found a wholesaler in Florida that still sells my 2 Ton York heat pump (both pieces) for about $1,150 + freight. Granted it's a 10 SEER, so if I went with new, I'd opt for something a bit more efficient. However, when one is being charged $6,000 for a new unit to be installed, you're laying down some serious cash into the hands of "middle men" as well as your installer.

Good luck to you.

A reliable company that I have dealt with is: Perfect Temp in Alexandria
The owner is dependable, knowledgeable; and cost is on track. You may want to give them a call, this week the humidity returns :(

However, if your coil inside of your air handler is failing with a major leak, the A/C companies can't get a replacement R-22 coil.
The company I just recommended got me one just a month ago. The manufacturer can sell it but without the freon due to the new regulations; however, the technician can fill it.

KeepOnTruckin Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Warhawk Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > My guess is that you're low on freon. I had
> the
> > same thing happen 2 years ago. Turns out that
> I
> > had a big time leak (it was gone again within 3
> > hours) and needed a new unit and interior coil.
>
> > Quite pricey. Was not expecting to have to
> write
> > a $4,500 check that summer.
> >
> > Just another lesson learned to pass on to the
> > younger kids getting started - put aside a
> little
> > each month in an account (that you DON'T touch)
> > for expenses that could be years down the road.
> > Orthodontics is one. A/C & furnace replacement
> > and roof replacement are others. $50/month
> > doesn't seem like much, but it adds up and
> could
> > help with sticker shock.
>
> It is common for the scam A/c companies to always
> reccomend a new system. If you just had a leak,
> they should have found the leak and repaired it,
> for 100-300 dollars. But instead they just install
> a new system saying it will be faster since they
> can't get the parts for the repair for another 2
> weeks.


Common scam by residential companies is to tell homeowners that r-22 freon is going away and they have to replace their system because of it. R-22 is going away but r422d will be available for decades and it is a direct replacement for r-22 and it works better. Residential A/C is full of scamers.

Parent in FX Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The company I just recommended got me one just a
> month ago. The manufacturer can sell it but
> without the freon due to the new regulations;
> however, the technician can fill it.

Thanks for the information. I'll look for a coil, since mine is 9 years old. I see freon vacs on Craigslist for about $350. Plus, 30 Lb. of R-22 runs about $150. It should be fairly cheap for me to get some more life out of my heat pump for the next several years ... without getting scammed.

Or, I'll just replace both pieces. I'd get my HVAC license by taking the classes. The only part that gets in the way is having to work as an apprentice for a period of time as a requirement. Also, getting the CFC certification seems simple - one weekend day for the class, then practice for the exam and take the exam. Then, one can legally buy freon.

Additionally, my outside unit (one of them) has blown a capacitor on average every 2 years. I just found a supply house out of South Carolina that sells the 440V version for under $8.50, each. Locally, with my contractor discount, the price would have been over $28.00. When the A/C guy comes out to replace it, the bill is $300 - for parts and labor. Now, I'm just going to replace it each year at the start of the cooling season as preventive action.

Good Stuff Wrote:
I
> just found a supply house out of South Carolina
> that sells the 440V version for under $8.50, each.

At that price I would expect it to be a Chinese-made capacitor of questionable quality.

You aren't going to get a Genteq (GE) capacitor for that price.

im just gonna post this up for reference. for some reason i thought the coil would be twisted like a spring
Attachments:

nice link on cleaning coils and how to diagnose

http://www.inspectapedia.com/aircond/Cooling_Coil.htm

........ Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>
> At that price I would expect it to be a
> Chinese-made capacitor of questionable quality.
>
> You aren't going to get a Genteq (GE) capacitor
> for that price.

That might be the case. Then again, the last two that I've had installed by A/C companies have essentially been "no name" brand capacitors and not Genteq either.

Well the unit has been off for maybe 16 hours. Turned it on for about an hour now. Basement and first floor are getting good results. Good amount of air at around 60ish degrees. House was 82 when i got home goin down to 79 now. Noticed there is no condensation (yet?). Maybe because frozen coils have thawed??

Third floor is still weak air flow

Narrowing down the problems it cant be freon if its chill air (i think). Either a bad fan or a clog in the ducts.

Hopefully i hear from the ac guy tomm.

Its hot Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>
> Third floor is still weak air flow

From that description, do you know if your ducts that lead away from your furnace-A/C unit have dampers installed? The dampers are designed to adjust so you have more cooler air going upstairs during the summer and then you adjust them in the fall, to send less heat upstairs - since heat rises. My previous townhome had them installed. If you look around the ducts that lead away from your unit in the utility closet, they can be spotted by usually seeing a little metal arm (about 4 - 5" long and possibly a wing nut attached) to keep them locked into place.

In my case, the builder provided me some verbal information during our walk-through, but that was just useless to me. I had to get out my Sharpie pen and draw onto the ducts themselves the positions for summer and winter. I'd make the necessary adjustments each spring and each fall. I rarely had any issues and the heating and cooling would stay regulated on each of the 3 levels.

Now, there's one other thing that should be discussed at this point, too. An attic fan. In this area, they are almost essential - and, they do pay for themselves. If you have an attic fan that kicks on when it gets between 90 and 100 degrees in your attic, you'll save on utility costs, you'll save on your roof components (shingles, etc.) as well as wear and tear on your A/C unit - since it will have to run less frequently.

Just 2 weeks ago, I was up in my attic to adjust the fan speed on my air handler up there and I realized my attic fan quit working after a year. The cheap Chinese motor froze up on it. However, my instant read thermometer indicated the temperature was 130 degrees (F) up that. Now, that was friggin' hot.

Good Stuff Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Its hot Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> >
> > Third floor is still weak air flow
>
> From that description, do you know if your ducts
> that lead away from your furnace-A/C unit have
> dampers installed? The dampers are designed to
> adjust so you have more cooler air going upstairs
> during the summer and then you adjust them in the
> fall, to send less heat upstairs - since heat
> rises. My previous townhome had them installed.
> If you look around the ducts that lead away from
> your unit in the utility closet, they can be
> spotted by usually seeing a little metal arm
> (about 4 - 5" long and possibly a wing nut
> attached) to keep them locked into place.
>
> In my case, the builder provided me some verbal
> information during our walk-through, but that was
> just useless to me. I had to get out my Sharpie
> pen and draw onto the ducts themselves the
> positions for summer and winter. I'd make the
> necessary adjustments each spring and each fall.
> I rarely had any issues and the heating and
> cooling would stay regulated on each of the 3
> levels.
>
> Now, there's one other thing that should be
> discussed at this point, too. An attic fan. In
> this area, they are almost essential - and, they
> do pay for themselves. If you have an attic fan
> that kicks on when it gets between 90 and 100
> degrees in your attic, you'll save on utility
> costs, you'll save on your roof components
> (shingles, etc.) as well as wear and tear on your
> A/C unit - since it will have to run less
> frequently.
>
> Just 2 weeks ago, I was up in my attic to adjust
> the fan speed on my air handler up there and I
> realized my attic fan quit working after a year.
> The cheap Chinese motor froze up on it. However,
> my instant read thermometer indicated the
> temperature was 130 degrees (F) up that. Now,
> that was friggin' hot.


very nice. thanks a lot for the info. i went to check for a damper switch and im assuming it probably looks similar to the water valve cutoff switch but-- not seeing anything at all like that on the ducts. oh well i was hoping for such a simple resolution.

........ Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Good Stuff Wrote:
> I
> > just found a supply house out of South Carolina
> > that sells the 440V version for under $8.50,
> each.
>
> At that price I would expect it to be a
> Chinese-made capacitor of questionable quality.
>
> You aren't going to get a Genteq (GE) capacitor
> for that price.

But if he is replacing them every 12 months, who cares?

Good Stuff Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> ........ Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> >
> > At that price I would expect it to be a
> > Chinese-made capacitor of questionable quality.
> >
> > You aren't going to get a Genteq (GE) capacitor
> > for that price.
>
> That might be the case. Then again, the last two
> that I've had installed by A/C companies have
> essentially been "no name" brand capacitors and
> not Genteq either.


Sounds like you need a surge suppressor.
I have sold/installed over 200 turbo universal capacitors withot a repeat failure over the last six years.

http://www.acfilterreplacement.com/products/Turbo-200-Universal-Replacement-Run-Capacitor.html

I'd like to think that since the guy who does my AC work is a friend who owns his own heating/cooling business that he didn't rip me off. He actually replaced the freon initally for a case of beer, but when it died 3 hours later he came out the next morning and found the leak. He figured initially that I had a small pinhole leak and I'd have to refill he freon in another 2 years or so and was pretty surprised that I lost the new stuff so fast.

__________________________________
That's not a ladybug, that's a cannapiller.

A/C guy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>
> Sounds like you need a surge suppressor.
> I have sold/installed over 200 turbo universal
> capacitors withot a repeat failure over the last
> six years.
>
> http://www.acfilterreplacement.com/products/Turbo-
> 200-Universal-Replacement-Run-Capacitor.html

Thanks for the link. That looks like the mother of all capacitors. Since I have a 2nd unit, it looks like I might be best just to order this one and have it on the shelf. Then, next spring, I'll install it in the unit that has been blowing them every 2 years.

The only thing I can think of, is that unit has a lot of exposure compared to the 2nd compressor sitting next to it. More wind, rain, sleet, and snow hit that corner of my compressor than the one next to it. That's the only reason I can suspect that the caps are crapping out. The current one is just showing some signs of rust - no bulges, yet.

Oh, I did experience some issues last week with my heat pump and it turned out to be my thermostat. I had a SimplexComfort thermostat that failed at the 9 year mark. I've known all along that it was basically builder's contractor crap, so I installed a Honeywell. I also replaced the one on the main level last evening with another Honeywell. I hope they do OK over the long run. So far, I'm much more pleased with them than the SimplexComfort brand.

Thanks to everyone for providing the different links. I was wondering about the degree of difficulty to clean the condensor coil on the unit that sits outside. I rate my DIY skills in the 2-3 range when it comes to mechanical stuff, but my son-in-law is probably a 7-8. our unit is about 10 years old and I can see some debris like leaves inside and figure that a cleaning would not be a bad idea and might get me slightly better performance.

Also, my HVAC company recommended a 'soft start' switch for the condensor last year for something like $100. It is supposed to reduce some of the wear when the unit turns on. Is this something that I should have installed?

Good Stuff Wrote:

> That might be the case. Then again, the last two
> that I've had installed by A/C companies have
> essentially been "no name" brand capacitors and
> not Genteq either.

That's probably why they only last 12 months...

I will only order and use Genteq capacitors for my HVAC equipment. I'll let the contractors use the cheap crap--in someone else's equipment.

KeepOnTruckin Wrote:

> But if he is replacing them every 12 months, who
> cares?

A more expensive Genteq capacitor WILL last longer than 12 months. 10 years is what I would expect..& the Genteq is around 3 times more expensive than the cheap ones.

We have dual zone heating/ac. Our 2nd floor is served by the attic heat pump, the basement and 1st floor is served by the ac / gas furnace. No issues with the ac / gas furnace w/ regards to heating/cooling.

The heat pump, however, sucked the big one ever since we moved in 6 years ago. The previous owner mentioned that the ROG (room over garage) would get hot in the summer, cold in the winter. After we moved in, we found that to be true: No matter what we did, it never changed.

Fast forward to last month when our heat pump went out. We got a pretty decent guy out here to take a look and it was a blown capacitor. While he was here, he checked the rest of the unit to be sure there was nothing else wrong. Were we ever surprised to see him come out of the attic with what looked to be a filter. It was crumpled and covered in dust and was about half the size it should have been.

Apparently the previous owner forgot to remove the filter before he put the new one in. That crumpled filter had been blocking the vents for who knows how long. I'm happy to report that since then, the ROG is getting lots of conditioned air and my daughter hasn't once had to sleep in the guest bedroom due to it being too hot in her room (which had been normal the previous four years).

So, if you're seeing a reduction in air flow, double check to see if there's not a filter stuck in the vent. You just might be in for a surprise!

theShadowToo Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> We have dual zone heating/ac. Our 2nd floor is
> served by the attic heat pump, the basement and
> 1st floor is served by the ac / gas furnace. No
> issues with the ac / gas furnace w/ regards to
> heating/cooling.
>
> The heat pump, however, sucked the big one ever
> since we moved in 6 years ago. The previous owner
> mentioned that the ROG (room over garage) would
> get hot in the summer, cold in the winter. After
> we moved in, we found that to be true: No matter
> what we did, it never changed.
>
> Fast forward to last month when our heat pump went
> out. We got a pretty decent guy out here to take
> a look and it was a blown capacitor. While he was
> here, he checked the rest of the unit to be sure
> there was nothing else wrong. Were we ever
> surprised to see him come out of the attic with
> what looked to be a filter. It was crumpled and
> covered in dust and was about half the size it
> should have been.
>
> Apparently the previous owner forgot to remove the
> filter before he put the new one in. That
> crumpled filter had been blocking the vents for
> who knows how long. I'm happy to report that
> since then, the ROG is getting lots of conditioned
> air and my daughter hasn't once had to sleep in
> the guest bedroom due to it being too hot in her
> room (which had been normal the previous four
> years).
>
> So, if you're seeing a reduction in air flow,
> double check to see if there's not a filter stuck
> in the vent. You just might be in for a surprise!


the filter i took out when i moved in was pretty much just the frame. they couldnt have ever changed it there was nothing there to stop anything from flowing

a/c guy is stopping by tonight

Low freon.

a 1.5lb of freon last summer solved my problem.

$74 vs 5K they want for new system

for a day with no AC. the house was only 81 degrees. damn i love that tree

ac guy just came and left in under 30 mins. checked the back unit outside told me i needed freon.

2 lbs @ 55 per pound

i am very relieved I did not have to drop big bucks

If you needed freon, then you have a leak somewhere. So if he did not find the leak, then you will have to add more freon, sometime in the future

Putterman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Thanks to everyone for providing the different
> links. I was wondering about the degree of
> difficulty to clean the condensor coil on the unit
> that sits outside. I rate my DIY skills in the
> 2-3 range when it comes to mechanical stuff, but
> my son-in-law is probably a 7-8. our unit is
> about 10 years old and I can see some debris like
> leaves inside and figure that a cleaning would not
> be a bad idea and might get me slightly better
> performance.

You can buy a can of the coil cleaner from Home Depot for about $5.00. Check out how to do the process on YouTube. Basically, you shut the power off to your outdoor compressor, then raise up the top lid (where the fan is mounted) and prop a piece of wood in place to hold it up. Spray the coil cleaner from the inside out - as that's the direction that air blows. Let the coil soak for a bit and the cleaner will run down the sides of your coil. After it has sat for about 20 minutes, take your garden hose with a spray - and again, from the inside of your unit, spray through the coil fins and you'll see water washing out the coil cleaner as it sprays through they coils and out. If you spray from the outside in, you're doing the reverse of what the coil and airflow is doing. You'll end up clogging it up more. Also, don't use a pressure washer, as it will bend those aluminum fins in the coil.

KeepOnTruckin Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> If you needed freon, then you have a leak
> somewhere. So if he did not find the leak, then
> you will have to add more freon, sometime in the
> future


Exactly what i was thinking. Ive been here for three years and this is the first service ive needed for the ac. I hope it holds for a while but time will tell

adding $100 worth of freon is a whole lot cheaper than swapping out a whole system, which they LOVE to do in this area.

I have done it twice in 3.5 years and it worked great.

> ...do you know if your ducts that lead away from your furnace-A/C unit have
> dampers installed? The dampers are designed to adjust so you have more cooler air
> going upstairs during the summer and then you adjust them in the fall, to send
> less heat upstairs - since heat rises...

This.

We have these and they work great (dramatically great).

I, too, have marked them "Winter/Summer" instead of the existing "Open/Closed"...with a Sharpie, too!

McHale's Navy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I've noticed the same sort of problem in my
> townhouse in the past. It turned out that the unit
> that came with the house was not sufficient enough
> to cool the entire home. I ended up putting in box
> fans in my windows on the 2nd floor and it feels
> good!


Rarely can an air handler can blow air up more than 2 levels. That’s why your basement and 1rst floor are fine and struggle for the 3rd. The only real solution is to get a second unit for upstairs. No matter how much air pressure you can create, gravity starts winning the higher you go..don't fight it.

My problem is airflow. We rent a 3 story townhouse - basement, main level and upstairs bedrooms. There is hardly any AC blowing out of the bedroom vents upstairs. I have checked the dampers and they are all open to go up. I have closed off and covered the vents in the basement and most of the main level at night to try and force more air up to the bedrooms and it still barely comes out. The freon has been checked and it is ok. The airflow is very weak up there. If you stand on a chair and put your hand up to the vent you can barely feel it coming out. Those rooms are too uncomfortable to be in now. Any other suggestions? Do they make a fan that can be put up in the vent to try and pull more air up and out? Help me, I'm melting....

M R Stride=cannot recommend enough. Family owned and honest. Very pleased, many others I know have as well.

If you only have one system in your house you need to run the blower motor continuously. Put the fan switch on the thermostat to the "on" position.

fan on Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> If you only have one system in your house you need
> to run the blower motor continuously. Put the fan
> switch on the thermostat to the "on" position.


That can actually make your house more humid.
You’re evaporator coil is wet and still wet when the condenser (ac) shuts off.
The blower will then put that moisture into your air.

AC tech Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> fan on Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > If you only have one system in your house you
> need
> > to run the blower motor continuously. Put the
> fan
> > switch on the thermostat to the "on" position.
>
>
> That can actually make your house more humid.
> You’re evaporator coil is wet and still wet when
> the condenser (ac) shuts off.
> The blower will then put that moisture into your
> air.

Yeah fuck that. My fan has been running since March of 2016 and it is great all around.

I actually run my continuously
But only because I use an air scrubber

Fact is it does make your house more humid.
If ya don’t fucking care ya don’t fucking care.

It doesn’t make your house cooler though

AC tech Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I actually run my continuously
> But only because I use an air scrubber
>
> Fact is it does make your house more humid.
> If ya don’t fucking care ya don’t fucking
> care.
>
> It doesn’t make your house cooler though


It makes the upstairs much cooler. It keeps mixing the air even when the compressor is not running. Leaving the fan on keeps the top floor 4 degrees cooler than running the fan in auto.

Only if you have a return in the basement
I recommend this daily

If you have one of those outdoor air ducts hooked to the return you should block it off in the summer if you are going to leave the fan running. It will suck in a ton of heat and humidity.

AC tech Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> If you have one of those outdoor air ducts hooked
> to the return you should block it off in the
> summer if you are going to leave the fan running.
> It will suck in a ton of heat and humidity.


Yes
You’re referring to the fresh air inlet