Figures in all this heat my old Kenmore A/C Compressor fan will not start up.

25 Amp Fuses outside are good. Resistance is good on ohms.
Wiring looks decent, no burnt or broken wires.
No humming or unusual noises outside like a bad motor.
No idea if the capacitors have failed.

If these older Kenmore Sears Compressors are low on refrigerant (freon) will that prevent the fan motor from starting up? Any ideas.

I do have a call in but it's scheduled for Tuesday.

Generally, it's a (relatively) good sign that nothing comes on. Can you hear the contactor click when it should turn on? If not, the replace it and capacitor yourself for < $100 vs the ass raping by the HVAC guy who will do the exact same thing. If you're up to measuring ohms then you can make sure power is off and handle it without any trouble. Basically some sheet metal screws to remove and then pull the terminal spades and plug in the new.

Turn it on and do "the stick test." With it turned on take a stick and push the fan blade to see if the fans will start running. If the fan starts to run after being pushed it's a capacitor. You can get a new capacitor at in Sterling at Tribles.

Make sure you pull the breakers out before trying to replace the capacitor.

Sounds like the unit is broken. Call the number on your service contract.

Oooooh... Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Sounds like the unit is broken. Call the number on
> your service contract.

Thanks Captn Oblivious

Not that Local Contractor Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Generally, it's a (relatively) good sign that
> nothing comes on. Can you hear the contactor
> click when it should turn on? If not, the replace
> it and capacitor yourself for < $100 vs the ass
> raping by the HVAC guy who will do the exact same
> thing. If you're up to measuring ohms then you
> can make sure power is off and handle it without
> any trouble. Basically some sheet metal screws to
> remove and then pull the terminal spades and plug
> in the new.

Tks. Never did hear the contactor come on when I had someone else turn it on at the thermostat. With this you are saying replace the contactor and possibly both capacitors.the run and startup capacitors? On this older unit there are 3 capacitors. Thoughts.

Also, did the stick test mentioned above and pushed the fan blade and it never did start up. Stumped.

YeahitsHot Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Not that Local Contractor Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Generally, it's a (relatively) good sign that
> > nothing comes on. Can you hear the contactor
> > click when it should turn on? If not, the
> replace
> > it and capacitor yourself for < $100 vs the ass
> > raping by the HVAC guy who will do the exact
> same
> > thing. If you're up to measuring ohms then you
> > can make sure power is off and handle it
> without
> > any trouble. Basically some sheet metal screws
> to
> > remove and then pull the terminal spades and
> plug
> > in the new.
>
> Tks. Never did hear the contactor come on when I
> had someone else turn it on at the thermostat.
> With this you are saying replace the contactor and
> possibly both capacitors.the run and startup
> capacitors? On this older unit there are 3
> capacitors. Thoughts.
>
> Also, did the stick test mentioned above and
> pushed the fan blade and it never did start up.
> Stumped.


You can try to test the capacitors but that's not easy to do right. Google and you should find some guides. Also see discharging capacitors just to be sure.

I'd just buy all of it and save some trips back and forth. Start by replacing the contactor. If that doesn't do it then replace the capacitors one at a time and take back whatever you don't need if it works before you get to the last one. Or just replace all of them. They're not that expensive in most cases for older units.

If that doesn't work then check at the thermostat to make sure that it's triggering. Actually may want to do that first but that's less often the case. You'd need to figure out which wires carry what for your thermostat.

May not fix it but you won't be out much money and there's a high chance that it will. There's not a lot to the things. You have the thermostat that trips with temp. Then the contactor gets tripped by the thermostat. Capacitors handle starting the fan and compressor. If you have three, then likely one for each plus a booster for the compressor. From there, power goes separately to the fan and compressor. So if both aren't doing anything and you're not hearing it click when tripped, then it's likely not getting power to or through the contactor.

[deleted]

Not that Local Contractor Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> YeahitsHot Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Not that Local Contractor Wrote:
> >
> --------------------------------------------------
>
> > -----
> > > Generally, it's a (relatively) good sign that
> > > nothing comes on. Can you hear the contactor
> > > click when it should turn on? If not, the
> > replace
> > > it and capacitor yourself for < $100 vs the
> ass
> > > raping by the HVAC guy who will do the exact
> > same
> > > thing. If you're up to measuring ohms then
> you
> > > can make sure power is off and handle it
> > without
> > > any trouble. Basically some sheet metal
> screws
> > to
> > > remove and then pull the terminal spades and
> > plug
> > > in the new.
> >
> > Tks. Never did hear the contactor come on when
> I
> > had someone else turn it on at the thermostat.
> > With this you are saying replace the contactor
> and
> > possibly both capacitors.the run and startup
> > capacitors? On this older unit there are 3
> > capacitors. Thoughts.
> >
> > Also, did the stick test mentioned above and
> > pushed the fan blade and it never did start up.
> > Stumped.
>
>
> You can try to test the capacitors but that's not
> easy to do right. Google and you should find some
> guides. Also see discharging capacitors just to
> be sure.
>
> I'd just buy all of it and save some trips back
> and forth. Start by replacing the contactor. If
> that doesn't do it then replace the capacitors one
> at a time and take back whatever you don't need if
> it works before you get to the last one. Or just
> replace all of them. They're not that expensive
> in most cases for older units.
>
> If that doesn't work then check at the thermostat
> to make sure that it's triggering. Actually may
> want to do that first but that's less often the
> case. You'd need to figure out which wires carry
> what for your thermostat.
>
> May not fix it but you won't be out much money and
> there's a high chance that it will. There's not a
> lot to the things. You have the thermostat that
> trips with temp. Then the contactor gets tripped
> by the thermostat. Capacitors handle starting the
> fan and compressor. If you have three, then
> likely one for each plus a booster for the
> compressor. From there, power goes separately to
> the fan and compressor. So if both aren't doing
> anything and you're not hearing it click when
> tripped, then it's likely not getting power to or
> through the contactor.

Tks. Great info you provided.

check out the home warranty deals by Dominion Power. I pay like 5-8 dollars a month on my bill. Twice over the years I have had the AC break down. Each time there is a $50 co pay. If I didn't have the plan once it would have been $800 the other time close to $1,000.

Since you have a meter might also want to test that the transformer for the thermostat is working right. If it's on and looks like it's working, clicks, when switched, etc., then it probably is. Usually near the furnace. Should be line voltage AC on the in side and low voltage on the out side with smaller wires running to your thermostat and then out to the outside unit. Voltage can vary but usually 24v. There are some other things that you can test but requires power on.

Most often given symptoms as described it's the contactor though. They're wear parts to some degree and over time don't make good contact or otherwise fail.

Not that Local Contractor Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> YeahitsHot Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Not that Local Contractor Wrote:
> >
> --------------------------------------------------
>
> > -----
> > > Generally, it's a (relatively) good sign that
> > > nothing comes on. Can you hear the contactor
> > > click when it should turn on? If not, the
> > replace
> > > it and capacitor yourself for < $100 vs the
> ass
> > > raping by the HVAC guy who will do the exact
> > same
> > > thing. If you're up to measuring ohms then
> you
> > > can make sure power is off and handle it
> > without
> > > any trouble. Basically some sheet metal
> screws
> > to
> > > remove and then pull the terminal spades and
> > plug
> > > in the new.
> >
> > Tks. Never did hear the contactor come on when
> I
> > had someone else turn it on at the thermostat.
> > With this you are saying replace the contactor
> and
> > possibly both capacitors.the run and startup
> > capacitors? On this older unit there are 3
> > capacitors. Thoughts.
> >
> > Also, did the stick test mentioned above and
> > pushed the fan blade and it never did start up.
> > Stumped.
>
>
> You can try to test the capacitors but that's not
> easy to do right. Google and you should find some
> guides. Also see discharging capacitors just to
> be sure.
>
> I'd just buy all of it and save some trips back
> and forth. Start by replacing the contactor. If
> that doesn't do it then replace the capacitors one
> at a time and take back whatever you don't need if
> it works before you get to the last one. Or just
> replace all of them. They're not that expensive
> in most cases for older units.
>
> If that doesn't work then check at the thermostat
> to make sure that it's triggering. Actually may
> want to do that first but that's less often the
> case. You'd need to figure out which wires carry
> what for your thermostat.
>
> May not fix it but you won't be out much money and
> there's a high chance that it will. There's not a
> lot to the things. You have the thermostat that
> trips with temp. Then the contactor gets tripped
> by the thermostat. Capacitors handle starting the
> fan and compressor. If you have three, then
> likely one for each plus a booster for the
> compressor. From there, power goes separately to
> the fan and compressor. So if both aren't doing
> anything and you're not hearing it click when
> tripped, then it's likely not getting power to or
> through the contactor.

One final thought. So if the contactor is not engaging or hearing it click on when activated at the thermostat most likely replace the contactor before any capacitors. The thermostat is turning on the inside furnace. Of course, turn off all breakers and remove the disconnect fuses before replacing the contactor.

Yes. Most likely at least. Obviously cut power and discharge capacitors before.

There are two different clicks. The thermostat itself typically will make a click locally when it hits temp to turn cool/heat on/off. That's separate from the contactor in the outside unit which also will click when the thermostat then activates it. The clicks are effectively relays tripping. When powered the contacts close and make the connection to pass power over to the lines to the other side of the contact. If you look at the contactor then you should see how it works.

The fan control for the inside unit is separately wired so not directly associated with the outside unit. That just drives the inside blower fan to push air past whatever cold/hot source in the inside coil/heat box.

The first 6 posts on this thread are all from the same IP.

Manually push the fan and see if it starts moving

Check the low voltage contry circuit to the contactor, do you have an evaporator pump if that's not working the unit will not run .They plug into a 110 v outlet in most cases and cost about 60 dollars. Contactors can be manually engaged to start a unit if pressures of the refrigerant are good but it's dangerous high voltage if you don't know what your doing and I'm not getting into it here

AC is not my Master BTW but I know a few things

A Condensate Pump Not Evaporator Pump . Jack your right if its wired into the low voltage control circuit the unit will not start to prevent condensate collected from causing a large leak and these units can be unplugged or theres no voltage to the outlet there plugged into , the circuit breaker tripped by other loads on the circuit or the motors locked up, they can also be plugged by debris and if the unit runs cause leaks that can create mold or ceiling repairs depending on where they are. That's why a good preventive maintenance program keeps AC systems reliably operating and saves money on repairs

If its a Kenmore, it's time for an upgrade. It's gotta be 30-40 years old. Complete energy hog (if you are a greenie), but if it's a cheap fix and you don't intend to live there long????

On some units on the indoor air handler, there's a safety switch if the runoff from the a-coil backs up because the tube is clogged with gunk and mildew. That will shut the entire system down until it is unclogged. That's usually a pressure switch that sits somewhere between the air handler and the sump it empties condensation into the trap and it is on the tube carrying condensation out of the air hander. Clean it with a brush and a 10% solution of Clorox and water. See if that fixes it.

It is code in some places and looks like this:

Jack of All Trades Master of 1 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Check the low voltage contry circuit to the
> contactor, do you have an evaporator pump if
> that's not working the unit will not run .They
> plug into a 110 v outlet in most cases and cost
> about 60 dollars. Contactors can be manually
> engaged to start a unit if pressures of the
> refrigerant are good but it's dangerous high
> voltage if you don't know what your doing and I'm
> not getting into it here
>
> AC is not my Master BTW but I know a few things

That is me as well "I know a few things."
House problems like these can be like just throwing money at parts.

Yes, it is a Kenmore and probably today I will buy the contactor and the capacitors. That will probably run me less than $60. Where it gets tricky is do I have a very slight broken wire somewhere that is almost impossible to see in plain view?
It's really not that HOT outside yet.

That is the plan today!

Don't forget to clean the condenser coil. Go to youtube to watch this simple procedure that will save you money and keep your home cooler.

and change that inside filter as well

Not that Local Contractor Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Yes. Most likely at least. Obviously cut power
> and discharge capacitors before.
>
> There are two different clicks. The thermostat
> itself typically will make a click locally when
> it hits temp to turn cool/heat on/off. That's
> separate from the contactor in the outside unit
> which also will click when the thermostat then
> activates it.

I now that my inside wiring come directly into the contactor first. However, if one of my capacitors are bad will that keep my contactor from engaging and thus turning on the fan and the rest of the system?

Sends current to the relays that operate the high voltage contactors then it goes out from there to the rest look up a electrical schematic of the unit there probably online or look on the unit itself for it

That's why HVAC techs check for voltage on control wiring to the unit, I know because I watched them to get a free lesson for the next time because Im cheap and like danger thats why Im here on FXU

YeahitsHot Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Not that Local Contractor Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Yes. Most likely at least. Obviously cut
> power
> > and discharge capacitors before.
> >
> > There are two different clicks. The thermostat
> > itself typically will make a click locally
> when
> > it hits temp to turn cool/heat on/off. That's
> > separate from the contactor in the outside unit
> > which also will click when the thermostat then
> > activates it.
>
> I now that my inside wiring come directly into the
> contactor first. However, if one of my capacitors
> are bad will that keep my contactor from engaging
> and thus turning on the fan and the rest of the
> system?


Shouldn't. Can't think of any way that would happen.

Again, when the contactor gets power, like any other relay switch, it should activate. Whether anything and/or what happens when it activates are another thing. But give it power and it should switch.

Likewise, though you'd need to be careful when doing it, you could jump/short that connection with power and it should result in whatever happening when switched. You're just taking the switch out of the equation, e.g., jump the fan side of the connection and the fan should turn on.

Forgot to add:

As others mentioned there are a variety of other controls that could keep things from switching on. Don't know what you have there, I'm just giving you the most likely case as far as it being the contactor given your description.

Here is what I found out.

Drove over to Tribles today in Sterling with my capacitors and they couldn't match them up with the correct 30 MFD specs so I just put the originals back in.

Then When pushed down on the contactor I did get the fan to run for a second or two, but then it blew one of my fuses at the disconnect. Did it again and same result, fan ran and then it blew another fuse?

Must mean my fan motor is good but could have a possibly bad conductor switch?



Thoughts??

YeahitsHot Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Here is what I found out.
>
> Drove over to Tribles today in Sterling with my
> capacitors and they couldn't match them up with
> the correct 30 MFD specs so I just put the
> originals back in.
>
> Then When pushed down on the contactor I did get
> the fan to run for a second or two, but then it
> blew one of my fuses at the disconnect. Did it
> again and same result, fan ran and then it blew
> another fuse?
>
> Must mean my fan motor is good but could have a
> possibly bad conductor switch?
>
>
>
> Thoughts??

By pushing down the contactor I must have jump shorted it causing the fuse to blow and allow the fan to run just for that second or two. Gave a spark out but ran the fan.

YeahitsHot Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>
> By pushing down the contactor I must have jump
> shorted it causing the fuse to blow and allow the
> fan to run just for that second or two. Gave a
> spark out but ran the fan.


Hard to say. Might have just not made a good connect when pushing on it and/or shorted it otherwise. Or there could be a short on the other side when it's closed, etc.

But that doesn't answer why the contactor isn't activating without your help.
Did you replace the contactor?

Not that Local Contractor Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> YeahitsHot Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> >
> > By pushing down the contactor I must have jump
> > shorted it causing the fuse to blow and allow
> the
> > fan to run just for that second or two. Gave a
> > spark out but ran the fan.
>
>
> Hard to say. Might have just not made a good
> connect when pushing on it and/or shorted it
> otherwise. Or there could be a short on the other
> side when it's closed, etc.
>
> But that doesn't answer why the contactor isn't
> activating without your help.
> Did you replace the contactor?

Not yet. I may have to buy one on Ebay priced at $34. Would get it by Wednesday which is ok with me. When you say a short on the other side would that be coming from the house or on the side of the capacitors?

OK. Wasn't sure whether I'd missed something. In the scheme of things still a relatively good sign and I'd still go with the contactor as the problem.

A short could be anywhere especially with an older unit. Wiring, internal to the fan or compressor, etc. But wouldn't worry about that at this point. Other than you pushing on it you're not getting power to or through the contactor to even get there to have a short on the other side to affect it. Blowing the fuse most likely was just the way that it was touching as you might see any other fuse blow with kind of a shaky connection.

I'd think that Tribles or somebody around here should have a contactor that will work.

Can you recommend anyone else besides Tribles who will sell to non contractors? The parts people at Tribles there are not very knowledgeable.

If you wanted to test something in the meantime then, as above, you might double check to make sure that you're getting power to the contactor from the thermostat/transformer. Again don't know exactly how you're set up there but you should be able to pull the outside main fuses so that you don't have line voltage to the unit and you'll probably still be able see the 24V (or whatever) power coming in to the control side of the contactor when the thermostat should trigger it to turn on.

The contactor basically is just a remote switch that's activated by the thermostat. You could do the same thing manually with a toggle switch with the appropriate contacts/poles. Not suggesting that, just for explanation purposes. lol

YeahitsHot Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Can you recommend anyone else besides Tribles who
> will sell to non contractors? The parts people at
> Tribles there are not very knowledgeable.


Not sure. A lot won't sell to home owners.

Pretty sure that Johnstone doesn't but might give a call.

Not sure whether Ferguson does?

troll catcher Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The first 6 posts on this thread are all from the
> same IP.

Yes and the posts are just minutes apart. Dead giveaway.

You might try aireco, back in the day I was able to buy parts like the ones you are looking for from them.

Not that Local Contractor Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> YeahitsHot Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Can you recommend anyone else besides Tribles
> who
> > will sell to non contractors? The parts people
> at
> > Tribles there are not very knowledgeable.
>
>
> Not sure. A lot won't sell to home owners.
>
> Pretty sure that Johnstone doesn't but might give
> a call.
>
> Not sure whether Ferguson does?

I can buy one locally but it is a 30 AMP and my 2 pole calls for a 25 Amp.
Is that a big deal?

YeahitsHot Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Can you recommend anyone else besides Tribles who
> will sell to non contractors? The parts people at
> Tribles there are not very knowledgeable.

Southern Refrigeration in Manassas does.

YeahitsHot Wrote:

> I can buy one locally but it is a 30 AMP and my 2
> pole calls for a 25 Amp.
> Is that a big deal?

The only things you don't want to use with more AMPS are circuit breakers and fuses.

30 amp breaker instead of a 25 amp breaker = BAD

30 amp contactor instead of a 25 amp contactor = GOOD

JUMLY Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> YeahitsHot Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Can you recommend anyone else besides Tribles
> who
> > will sell to non contractors? The parts people
> at
> > Tribles there are not very knowledgeable.
>
> Southern Refrigeration in Manassas does.


If I catch Southern or any other hvac supply house selling to homeowners there is going to be hell to pay. Only people with hvac masters licenses and their employees are allowed to buy from them.

PDYXP Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> YeahitsHot Wrote:
>
> > I can buy one locally but it is a 30 AMP and my
> 2
> > pole calls for a 25 Amp.
> > Is that a big deal?
>
> The only things you don't want to use with more
> AMPS are circuit breakers and fuses.
>
> 30 amp breaker instead of a 25 amp breaker = BAD
>
> 30 amp contactor instead of a 25 amp contactor =
> GOOD

Put a new contactor in and all wired up correctly and still compressor not working and no fan spinning. So who knows at this point? Thermostat is wired to the furnace and the furnace kicks on at "cool" setting. The capicators are not popped out or leaking. I've found shorts in auto mechanics and inside house wiring but this is a tough one.

Out of ideas so Tuesday I may have someone come out for service.

Is the refrigerant low on a charge, There's low pressure switches that will cut off the unit if so, also when units run on low charges the oil in the refrigerant can fall out of suspension enough to starve the compressor of the lube it needs

Good luck new units are about 5k and up for 3 tons BTW you cant buy R410a anyone without a license forget R22 its sky high and was phased out in 2010 for new units


You still need permits to install your own BTW and you have to have a license for that or get someone with a license because of handling the refrigerant

YeahitsHot Wrote:

> Put a new contactor in and all wired up correctly
> and still compressor not working and no fan
> spinning. So who knows at this point? Thermostat
> is wired to the furnace and the furnace kicks on
> at "cool" setting. The capicators are not popped
> out or leaking. I've found shorts in auto
> mechanics and inside house wiring but this is a
> tough one.
>
> Out of ideas so Tuesday I may have someone come
> out for service.


Push in on the contactor with a screwdriver, does the unit fire up? Do you hear the contactor buzzing when the thermostat is calling for cool? If the answers are yes and no in that order then you have a bad connection or wire in the 24V low voltage wiring between the outdoor unit and the furnace OR between the thermostat and the furnace.

>Only people with hvac masters licenses and their employees are allowed to buy from them.

YES with refrigerants that require an EPA 608 license otherwise there's no laws to stop sales of other items, contactors condensers capacitors or whole units and its illegal to sell tools of the trade to anyone even if there "wholesale" with out collecting sales tax, HVAC companies don't pay sales taxes on customer used consumables refrigerants whole units or parts they sell if they have a state sale tax number and tax the customers for the items. Everyone has to pay sales taxes on their tools and equipment so if anyone goes to a supplier they can to them and sell and charge them sales tax .Certain products can only be sold to dealers also with the HVAC company being a dealer and the supply warehouse a distributor of the manufacture .

As an example restaurant supply places that sell equipment let anyone buy, if they sell food in the place then you need to have a resturauant and state sales tax number or they wont let you buy and may not even let you into the place

contractor2 Wrote:

> If I catch Southern or any other hvac supply house
> selling to homeowners there is going to be hell to
> pay. Only people with hvac masters licenses and
> their employees are allowed to buy from them.

I buy from them all the time. I pay cash. They like my money. It's just as green as yours.

What are you going to do about it? More importantly...even if you manage to get them to start checking everyone who comes in the door for an HVAC license, what are you going to do about Ebay, Amazon, Grainger, Zoro, and the several dozen other online places that sell HVAC parts to anyone with the money to buy them?

I'm not going to pay some half-drunk inbred southern redneck piece of Virginian trash $250 to change a $10 capacitor...assuming that the fucking moron has enough smarts to figure out that it needs a new capacitor instead of trying to sell a whole new replacement system. (See, I'm giving you the benefit of the doubt there--assuming you are STUPID instead of CROOKED, although you may be both).

There's 608 certifications for homes and stationary large commercial AC units and there's 608 certs for small appliances of less then 5lbs and that 5lb license can be easily taken on line cheap and then people can buy the 30 lb jugs of refrigerant to service their or others 5 pound or less appliances The major license takes work experience training and further testing but on thing is crystal clear


YOU Better Have a Refrigerant license and a EPA approved recovery machine and gauges if your going to do any work on any ACV system

Get caught venting / releasing refrigerant or working on units without it or lie and say you have access to the equipment even if you have a license and don't have the recovery equipment is a huge fine at the least

You don't need an EPA 608 cert if you're not doing any work on the sealed part of the system (compressor, condenser, evaporator, and connecting lines).

And, in my experience, those parts are the least likely to fail. Electrical problems are far more likely. Loose / damaged wires, bad contactor, fan motor, capacitor, etc. can all be repaired with no need of an EPA 608 cert.

YeahitsHot Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------

> Put a new contactor in and all wired up correctly
> and still compressor not working and no fan
> spinning. So who knows at this point? Thermostat
> is wired to the furnace and the furnace kicks on
> at "cool" setting. The capicators are not popped
> out or leaking. I've found shorts in auto
> mechanics and inside house wiring but this is a
> tough one.
>
> Out of ideas so Tuesday I may have someone come
> out for service.


As earlier did you check whether there's power getting to the low voltage side of the contactor? Pull the outside main power and set the thermostat to turn on. You should see voltage there.

scamtractor Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> contractor2 Wrote:
>
> > If I catch Southern or any other hvac supply
> house
> > selling to homeowners there is going to be hell
> to
> > pay. Only people with hvac masters licenses and
> > their employees are allowed to buy from them.
>
> I buy from them all the time. I pay cash. They
> like my money. It's just as green as yours.
>
> What are you going to do about it? More
> importantly...even if you manage to get them to
> start checking everyone who comes in the door for
> an HVAC license, what are you going to do about
> Ebay, Amazon, Grainger, Zoro, and the several
> dozen other online places that sell HVAC parts to
> anyone with the money to buy them?
>
> I'm not going to pay some half-drunk inbred
> southern redneck piece of Virginian trash $250 to
> change a $10 capacitor...assuming that the fucking
> moron has enough smarts to figure out that it
> needs a new capacitor instead of trying to sell a
> whole new replacement system. (See, I'm giving you
> the benefit of the doubt there--assuming you are
> STUPID instead of CROOKED, although you may be
> both).

+1

I bought 25lbs of r410 on ebay and I don't have any EPA license. They will sell it to you without any hesitation, so much better than having these rednecks trying to sell you on a new system. I keep a turbo 200 around as well, it has come in handy.

Before Jan 2018 its illegal to do so now without a copy of a EPA 608 Cert.

Yes we know you'll lie just like on the form 4473 question 11E about use of weed to buy a gun

Why is Illegal a word I now know how to spell so well when I could not spell it right before Democrats lost their minds and became so weak defending our borders

No forms at all, just checkout like you're buying anything else on Ebay.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/R410a-R-410a-R-410a-Refrigerant-7-5lb-tank-New-Factory-Sealed-MADE-IN-USA/303180202623


Some don't even bother with the disclaimer like the one above

https://www.ebay.com/itm/R410a-R410-R-410-R-410A-Refrigerant-25-lb-25lb-Jug-Cylinder-VIRGIN-SEALED/283471440567?



"With this purchase, you are stating that you are EPA certified or that this product will be used by a licensed technician. your payment will be used as your electronic signature"

>I'm not going to pay some half-drunk inbred southern redneck piece of Virginian trash $250 to change a $10 capacitor..

But you'll hire illegals to mow your grass for 10 dollars a week less because your a cheapskate liberal, If they offer to work on your ac for a extra deal youll watch them vent the hell out of the R22 before you head to the global warming coal mine closing rally

You guys are getting way off track with this of buying stuff illegal which I don't plan on doing. Just want to figure out how to test my low voltage from inside and at the contactor, as "Not that local contractor" has mentioned. It is a 2 pole contactor so how to check A/C line voltage at this point?
I have a volt meter to measure A/C so a little help with that and I would be good to go.

Also, with a very old furnace with no circuit boards, but remember that it is blowing air, anything could be blown in there like a fuse? There are two fuses in the furnace and I did an ohm test and they are good. So everything may be pointing to the low voltage test.

Any help on this would be much appreciated. It's hot in the house!
No worries, I don't plan on a trip to the ER today.

Checked my voltages at my thermostat and Red-Grn and Red-Yel and Red to White, and they read 35 VOLTS.

Do I now check the Line side at the contactor?

Not that Local Contractor Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> YeahitsHot Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
>
> > Put a new contactor in and all wired up
> correctly
> > and still compressor not working and no fan
> > spinning. So who knows at this point?
> Thermostat
> > is wired to the furnace and the furnace kicks
> on
> > at "cool" setting. The capicators are not
> popped
> > out or leaking. I've found shorts in auto
> > mechanics and inside house wiring but this is a
> > tough one.
> >
> > Out of ideas so Tuesday I may have someone come
> > out for service.
>
>
> As earlier did you check whether there's power
> getting to the low voltage side of the contactor?
> Pull the outside main power and set the thermostat
> to turn on. You should see voltage there.

Pulled the outside main power and set the thermostat to turn on, the blower motor in the furnace came on. "No voltage" at the incoming terminals at contactor. Remember this is a brand new contactor.

On this old furnace there is no actual circuit board just capacitors and wiring.

Thoughts!

There is a black box mounted on the siding just above where the disconnect is located. Could this be tripped in any way? Was this installed by the power company.

Measured the line voltage at the disconnect box and each side was about 135v.
Now I know that power is getting from the furnace to the outside wall and thus going towards the contactor.

Still no reading at the concator.

Just updating after various tests.
I have measured again at the contactor with fuses in the disconnect box and reading about 153 Volts on each Line side in.

Another Polluting Green Democrat Wrote:

> But you'll hire illegals to mow your grass for 10
> dollars a week less because your a cheapskate
> liberal, If they offer to work on your ac for a
> extra deal youll watch them vent the hell out of
> the R22 before you head to the global warming coal
> mine closing rally

I mow my own grass, jackass.

Illegals and southerners are about the same level of useless in my book. The fact that one is cheaper than the other doesn't make the assclownery any better. It's like getting shit for $1 a pound instead of $5 a pound..still shit, why would you want it, let alone pay anything for it?

YeahitsHot Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Just updating after various tests.
> I have measured again at the contactor with fuses
> in the disconnect box and reading about 153 Volts
> on each Line side in.

I suspect that you have a bad connection somewhere and your meter is giving you a false reading. It takes very little current for a meter to display a reading--hell, I can stick one probe into the hot wire of an outlet and touch the other probe with my bare hand and it'll show 120V yet I don't feel a thing!

Get a 60 watt light bulb and a socket (hell, cut the plug off the end of a table lamp if you have to) and make sure that both sides of the line are capable of making that bulb glow at full brightness (one wire to line, one to ground). If they aren't, find and correct the problem.

With my voltages all looking good could I still have a bad run or start capacitor? Which one. They look good, but still. Thoughts.

You OK ?

Hope he did not electrocute himself fooling with something he knew little about with live line high voltage , Or he may have gassed himself out too with leaking R22. If he did prepare for a 110F day summer according to Democrats running in 2020

I am fine. It's not that hot outside, I withstood Vegas heat longer than this.

Is like 85 here with the humidity, when I was in Tucson AZ it was 100F when I got out of the motel pool and it felt cold

OP hope you do well Mon and let us know if you had to get a new unit how much and what brand so we can continue bitching among ourselves here for sport

YeahitsHot Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> With my voltages all looking good could I still
> have a bad run or start capacitor? Which one. They
> look good, but still. Thoughts.


You could have a bad capacitor. Usually the top bulges out when they fail. But if you aren't sure, you could get a multimeter with a capacitor checking function, which will tell you if the capacitor actually has it's rated value.

Harbor Freight has a CM600A 600A AC Clamp Meter with a capacitor check for $44.

troll catcher Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The first 6 posts on this thread are all from the
> same IP.


How can you possibly know that, dicknuts?

As the OP I actually picked up some very good info here from several people on Friday and Saturday. Everyone is entitled to an opinion. Tks.

The Jack of all Trades Master of 1 hope you get it fixed and like another said let us know how much a new unit goes for today in NOVA so we can keep on arguing because that's the way we like it, you've got some thick skin to ask here ! See ya later and vote for President Trump in 2020 !

I Was One OP Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The Jack of all Trades Master of 1 hope you get
> it fixed and like another said let us know how
> much a new unit goes for today in NOVA so we can
> keep on arguing because that's the way we like it,
> you've got some thick skin to ask here ! See ya
> later and vote for President Trump in 2020 !

In life most everybody has an expertise in something, well most everyone.
Some that say they do may actually just spurt out useless dribble.

I am done. Replaced both capacitors, the run and fan, and the contactor and the fan will still not spin. Done all I can.

Your an asshole who bites the hard working Americans hands that fed you

Next time post your useless stupid dribble somewhere else, typical Democrat who thinks he's worth 150 an hour while stiffing tradespeople another liberal cheapskate probably a overpaid over comped teacher with the summer of to dribble

Hey Dickhead:
I got you pegged as well as the asshole who probably works for Goodyear and after running diagnostics of some old school teachers car, comes back at tells her that her Check Engine light will cost her $1200 to repair.

I am 10 times the full blooded American who serve his country as well and I'm no bleeding heart Democrat. You have no f-cking clue. You are a Boot.

OOOOohhhh, look at me. Lah lah lah, I went to school and learned how to use a screwdriver and read instruction manuals. Give me $80/hour please.

Fixed and working today. I tell you on thing, it was no easy diagnosis and fix. Great tech came out and added refrigerant as well. Well worth it. The tech was not at all disturbed that I added the parts and wiring I did. I even helped him as he troubleshot the problem. There are still many hard working honest and reliable contractors out there.

I am the OP and I have no ill feelings towards anyone on the link I started.

You still have a leak

>I am the OP and I have no ill feelings towards anyone on the link I started.

Neither do I

> am 10 times the full blooded American who serve his country as well and I'm no bleeding heart Democrat. You have no f-cking clue. You are a Boot.

Same here make it 12 times, I voted for President Trump and Im proud of it

The tech will be back before the end of summer, save your cash

If He Added Refrigerant Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> You still have a leak
>
> >I am the OP and I have no ill feelings towards
> anyone on the link I started.
>
> Neither do I
>
> > am 10 times the full blooded American who serve
> his country as well and I'm no bleeding heart
> Democrat. You have no f-cking clue. You are a
> Boot.
>
> Same here make it 12 times, I voted for President
> Trump and Im proud of it
>
> The tech will be back before the end of summer,
> save your cash

Who cares. I rarely use the AC anyway.

YeahitsHot Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Fixed and working today. I tell you on thing, it
> was no easy diagnosis and fix. Great tech came out
> and added refrigerant as well. Well worth it. The
> tech was not at all disturbed that I added the
> parts and wiring I did. I even helped him as he
> troubleshot the problem. There are still many hard
> working honest and reliable contractors out there.
>
>
> I am the OP and I have no ill feelings towards
> anyone on the link I started.

Ok, so what was the fix?

God I hate when people ask for help and then don't tell the solution. They just post something like, "fixed!"

Contactor? Bad Thermostat? What does the invoice say?

What Fixed it? Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> YeahitsHot Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Fixed and working today. I tell you on thing,
> it
> > was no easy diagnosis and fix. Great tech came
> out
> > and added refrigerant as well. Well worth it.
> The
> > tech was not at all disturbed that I added the
> > parts and wiring I did. I even helped him as he
> > troubleshot the problem. There are still many
> hard
> > working honest and reliable contractors out
> there.
> >
> >
> > I am the OP and I have no ill feelings towards
> > anyone on the link I started.
>
> Ok, so what was the fix?
>
> God I hate when people ask for help and then don't
> tell the solution. They just post something like,
> "fixed!"
>
> Contactor? Bad Thermostat? What does the invoice
> say?

Ok. So you know there is a terminal strip in the furnace where the thermostat wire goes from there directly out to the condensing unit. The wire is thin and has 3 wires inside, a red, white and green. Measured no low voltage coming into the contactor. The fix. The white wire was bad/broken so the tech used the green wire instead at both ends. A wire that probably just corroded after many many years. I could see a lot of techs giving up on this and wanting to sell me a complete new furnace and condensing unit. $$$$ of dollars. Bravo to this tech. So I bought new - 2 capacitors and a contactor and not much cost.

I learned a lot from this, just knowledge, by far not an expert but did learn.

He said they charged it so it will leak back out

The invoice said 1358.00 and some change for 2 pounds of 22 , he gladly paid the toothless guy from West Falls Church and Vienna to stay cool who learned how to do it on FXU

R 22 Was the Fix Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> He said they charged it so it will leak back out
>
> The invoice said 1358.00 and some change for 2
> pounds of 22 , he gladly paid the toothless guy
> from West Falls Church and Vienna to stay cool who
> learned how to do it on FXU

You're an idiot savant!

YeahitsHot Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> What Fixed it? Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > YeahitsHot Wrote:
> >
> --------------------------------------------------
>
> > -----
> > > Fixed and working today. I tell you on thing,
> > it
> > > was no easy diagnosis and fix. Great tech
> came
> > out
> > > and added refrigerant as well. Well worth it.
> > The
> > > tech was not at all disturbed that I added
> the
> > > parts and wiring I did. I even helped him as
> he
> > > troubleshot the problem. There are still many
> > hard
> > > working honest and reliable contractors out
> > there.
> > >
> > >
> > > I am the OP and I have no ill feelings
> towards
> > > anyone on the link I started.
> >
> > Ok, so what was the fix?
> >
> > God I hate when people ask for help and then
> don't
> > tell the solution. They just post something
> like,
> > "fixed!"
> >
> > Contactor? Bad Thermostat? What does the
> invoice
> > say?
>
> Ok. So you know there is a terminal strip in the
> furnace where the thermostat wire goes from there
> directly out to the condensing unit. The wire is
> thin and has 3 wires inside, a red, white and
> green. Measured no low voltage coming into the
> contactor. The fix. The white wire was bad/broken
> so the tech used the green wire instead at both
> ends. A wire that probably just corroded after
> many many years. I could see a lot of techs giving
> up on this and wanting to sell me a complete new
> furnace and condensing unit. $$$$ of dollars.
> Bravo to this tech. So I bought new - 2 capacitors
> and a contactor and not much cost.
>
> I learned a lot from this, just knowledge, by far
> not an expert but did learn.

I would have never figured that one out either. Now I know to check the continuity of the wires as another step. Mine was a simple capacitor. Apparently 95% of the time when the fan stops working it's the capacitor.

I'm surprised how simple the systems are when you really start looking at the parts.

So my compressor just shit itself and I'm looking to install a new condenser unit myself.

Question, can I keep my old evap coil inside that is a different brand from the new outdoor condenser? I'm guessing it does not really matter and should be fine.

Is using a mapp torch really that bad? The hvac cartel strictly states Oxy/Acetylene anything else will cause instant death. All I have is a mapp torch so I'm going to find out.

Hello, everyone. I have a very similar system at home. And I'm the kind of person who loves cleanliness in the house. When the house is clean, the dust is wiped everywhere, it is beautiful, as well as healthy. Often when I do cleaning in the house, I call the workers to clean the dust in hard-to-reach places. Ventilation, air duct, etc. Once 2 workers came to my house, cleaned disgusting, and took 100$. Then I found these guys www.airductcharleston.com who clean the dust in the air duct and ventilation, and take only 40$ :)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/16/2021 01:19PM by HeatherSmt.

Thank you for advice. What we breathe is our health