need tips: best ways to lift a 160 pound 2'x2' block of concrete out of 2' of soil with no chance of dropping it

needs tips quick because winter will freeze the soil and cannot leave this "lid" out of the ground forever, or erosion will bring water / soil into the hole. the hole is worth several thousand dollars at least

and tips on how to replace this lid with a new one, since they are no longer made. it's 2'x2', concrete, needs a handle

IMAGE is from google - does not fit and bought from i don't know where (they are sold)
Attachments:

I'd use one of these.
Attachments:

Anything above to attach a block to? That would be simple.

If not, then you can rent or buy an engine hoist or rent or build a simple gantry with 4x4s and use a block/winch.

e.g.

Break it up into pieces with a sledgehammer and pick them up individually. To make a new lid, just build a form out of wood or plastic, then mix your concrete and pour it in. Wallah instant lid. You can put some rebar in for reinforcement if you want.

Wait... I misread that.

Is it just 2' down?

Shit, you should be able to just lever that up and then drag it out.

Get a concrete drill bit and two eye screws. Drill the holes (same diameter)
screw in the eye screws. put a strong rope through both eyes and pull on the rope from opposite sides like a tug of war. Wallah

best ways to lift a 160 pound 2'x2' block of concrete out of 2' of soil with no chance of dropping it

Ah,, got it. Can you put some type of lever through the loop? Like a long metal pipe or pole and use the leverage to get it on it's side. Then roll it?

BTW What do I win if this is the solution?

Just go to the 7-11 on Elden street and get yourself a couple wetbacks.

I've got a hole worth millions! Who wants a taste?

I could give you several ideas on how to set up some lifting and rigging equipment but I suspect it would involve more time and effort than you really want to get into. If you can tip the thing at all and if you have any room to maneuver within the hole perhaps just try sliding a piece of plywood underneath the lip of the block and slowly lift and work the plywood underneath until you have an incline plane. Then maybe you can drag the thing up the plane instead of having to lift it out. Or maybe you could just dig an incline plane from the side into the hole and drag it out up the dirt embankment. Or you could hire some muscle to do it the hard way.

OP should hire messicans, just line his wife does when she's in heat.

Why is there a handle on that concrete slab? Did they expect someone to lift it up like the top to a pan?

some webbing and your car should do it bro. Quite being such a nancy

Call the Merrifield Garden Center and tell them what you need to do. They have the gear and the know how.

it helps the lid was removed and broken by a company mid-winter - exactly when one should be "rocking the boat". but on the other hand - perhaps un-settling was their 2nd hand goal other than $$$.

Let's get a handle on this Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Why is there a handle on that concrete slab? Did
> they expect someone to lift it up like the top to
> a pan?

Ever see the World's Strongest Man competition on ESPN. Just call one of those dudes and they could lift it using the handle with no problem. As a matter of fact, I think there are some chicks out there that could lift it as well.

i did think of a tri-pod and come-along (i think my come-along is long gone broken?). so.

i actually did this: i had 2 2"x6"x6' and some chain and bricks, and 2'x4' piece of 3/4" plywood.

* straddle 2x6 across hole
* chain attatch to lid handle
* rebar through chain - perpandicular to 2x6
* pull up (vertical) chain hard and slip bricks under rebar
OR lift boards and put blocks under (only 1/4 weight)

when up 6", slip plywood under lid so there's a ramp out of 1 foot hole, let lid relax on plywood

now just pull lid up plywood ramp (foot on plywood so it and lid don't go back in, and to give leverage)

Blockhead Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Wait... I misread that.
>
> Is it just 2' down?
>
> Shit, you should be able to just lever that up and
> then drag it out.

would like to see mr tough pick up a 2'x'2 lid weighing 160lb out of a hole with zero chance of dropping it (in which case, lid and person fall 9' possibly to death and causing maybe several thousand dollars in damage)

think!!

engineer#1 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I could give you several ideas on how to set up
> some lifting and rigging equipment but I suspect
> it would involve more time and effort than you
> really want to get into. If you can tip the thing
> at all and if you have any room to maneuver within
> the hole perhaps just try sliding a piece of
> plywood underneath the lip of the block and slowly
> lift and work the plywood underneath until you
> have an incline plane. Then maybe you can drag
> the thing up the plane instead of having to lift
> it out. Or maybe you could just dig an incline
> plane from the side into the hole and drag it out
> up the dirt embankment. Or you could hire some
> muscle to do it the hard way.

+1

i'd actually done that before writing the article - because i'm a total troll OP

________________________________________________

ok lid is out of hole

HOW TO MAKE NEW LID REPLACEMENT that doesn't suck or someone won't fall throught ?

(p.s. cannot pour concrete outdoors in winter - not w/o special - freezes while curing damages it)

is it just as easy as making a rhomboid mold and a short piece of rebar?

is that strong enough?
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Only a liberal wimp would be unable to lift 160 pounds out of a 2 foot hole. Pussy, must have voted for hillary.

The hole is worth several thousand dollars?

OP got ripped off. I could've sold him a hole for half the price!

Dr. Memory Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The hole is worth several thousand dollars?

if broken, several yes, absolutely, backhoe, crew, and many tons of materials

Bdnnxb Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Only a liberal wimp would be unable to lift 160
> pounds out of a 2 foot hole. Pussy, must have
> voted for hillary.

i'm sure you could do it with one hand. seeing as the other is always in your pants

harry homeowner DiY Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> need tips: best ways to lift a 160 pound 2'x2'
> block of concrete out of 2' of soil with no chance
> of dropping it
>
> needs tips quick because winter will freeze the
> soil and cannot leave this "lid" out of the ground
> forever, or erosion will bring water / soil into
> the hole. the hole is worth several thousand
> dollars at least
>
> and tips on how to replace this lid with a new
> one, since they are no longer made. it's 2'x2',
> concrete, needs a handle
>
> IMAGE is from google - does not fit and bought
> from i don't know where (they are sold)



160 whole pounds? Deadlift it, moron.


I pulled 395, for reps yesterday, and I weigh 180lbs.

Faggot.

Build a tripod from 2x4's. Use whatever block and tackle is necessary. If you make a new one, you should probably have a little reenforcement like wire mesh.

160 pounds? Do you even lift, bro?

Jesus fucking Christ, get another person to help you. Are you trying to portray yourself as an incredible pussy on purpose?

No, better yet, use two of them and wiggle it up.

Jack LaLame Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> 160 pounds? Do you even lift, bro?
>
> Jesus fucking Christ, get another person to help
> you. Are you trying to portray yourself as an
> incredible pussy on purpose?

word. My wife and I could lift that shit up out of the hole for fucks sake. If it breaks buy 20 dollars worth of rebar, mesh and concrete and make 2 more. How is this a problem?

My wife and I could lift Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> word. My wife and I could lift that shit up out
> of the hole for fucks sake. If it breaks buy 20
> dollars worth of rebar, mesh and concrete and make
> 2 more. How is this a problem?

That's nice. OP didn't ask for opprobrium, he asked for suggestions.

And being able to lift 160lb is not the same as being able to lift it from 2' deep in a hole, with perhaps sharp edges, and mud and slime making things worse, and hoping not to drop the damned thing.

Grow up. And as your mother taught you, if you don't have something useful to contribute, don't say anything at all, hm?

My wife and I could lift Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Jack LaLame Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > 160 pounds? Do you even lift, bro?
> >
> > Jesus fucking Christ, get another person to
> help
> > you. Are you trying to portray yourself as an
> > incredible pussy on purpose?
>
> word. My wife and I could lift that shit up out
> of the hole for fucks sake. If it breaks buy 20
> dollars worth of rebar, mesh and concrete and make
> 2 more. How is this a problem?

Word yourself Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> My wife and I could lift Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > word. My wife and I could lift that shit up
> out
> > of the hole for fucks sake. If it breaks buy
> 20
> > dollars worth of rebar, mesh and concrete and
> make
> > 2 more. How is this a problem?
>
> That's nice. OP didn't ask for opprobrium, he
> asked for suggestions.
>
> And being able to lift 160lb is not the same as
> being able to lift it from 2' deep in a hole, with
> perhaps sharp edges, and mud and slime making
> things worse, and hoping not to drop the damned
> thing.
>
> Grow up. And as your mother taught you, if you
> don't have something useful to contribute, don't
> say anything at all, hm?

Sounds like the OP and you put together couldn't even lift an opprobrium.

Since it's a septic tank lid, why do you and OP want to lift it? Do we not have septic tank companies anymore? I'm thinking the OP is a weak pussy who's planning something criminal.

The OP said he wanted to lift it out of the hole, but you could just dig an oblong hole and slide this to the side.

Jack LaLame Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Word yourself Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > My wife and I could lift Wrote:
> >
> --------------------------------------------------
>
> > -----
> > > word. My wife and I could lift that shit up
> > out
> > > of the hole for fucks sake. If it breaks buy
> > 20
> > > dollars worth of rebar, mesh and concrete and
> > make
> > > 2 more. How is this a problem?
> >
> > That's nice. OP didn't ask for opprobrium, he
> > asked for suggestions.
> >
> > And being able to lift 160lb is not the same as
> > being able to lift it from 2' deep in a hole,
> with
> > perhaps sharp edges, and mud and slime making
> > things worse, and hoping not to drop the damned
> > thing.
> >
> > Grow up. And as your mother taught you, if you
> > don't have something useful to contribute,
> don't
> > say anything at all, hm?
>
> Sounds like the OP and you put together couldn't
> even lift an opprobrium.
>
> Since it's a septic tank lid, why do you and OP
> want to lift it? Do we not have septic tank
> companies anymore? I'm thinking the OP is a weak
> pussy who's planning something criminal.


I suspect OP is the poster named Brown Onion.

He wants to swim in someone's septic tank but can't lift the lid.

Seek help for your mental illness.

No shit!

harry homeowner DiY Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>

> ________________________________________________
>

> ok lid is out of hole
>
> HOW TO MAKE NEW LID REPLACEMENT that doesn't suck
> or someone won't fall throught ?
>
> (p.s. cannot pour concrete outdoors in winter -
> not w/o special - freezes while curing damages it)


You can put down some plastic sheeting in a one-car garage and do it there. MEASURE how wide and tall you want the thing and build a form. Aa plastic garbage can lid could be part of the form and even be part of the final installation. install the handle and bolts so they will be built-in the the concrete when it sets. Wire cloth/mesh in the mixture will make it wicked strong. Make this custom- you're not going to find one "on the shelf" in the size you need.

You're going to post a photo of the completed lid and this epic hole, right? Ya got me curious!

wear sandals

> you or your mother could pick up a rhomboid shaped 2' wide concrete slab without dropping it?

pics or it didn't happen. and i'm pretty sure you don't even understand what the lid is and why lifting it and getting it hip level and out of the hole are 2 very different things.

> a garbage can lid that's 2' wide ? i doubt it.

do they sell replacements? only that can be ordered. none are local i can find. replacements typically have hidden necessary parts and add up to like $300 by the time they finish pulling your chain

who is saying use mesh and wear sandals ? because i have them?

and why would you be saying wear sandals ? what kind of comment is that?

i do have sandals. if that's a stalker i will definitely meet that in court or out of court. i don't tolerate family stalking me. you can rot in jail and i'll see the judge in jail if he doesn't attend to it THIS TIME

____________________________

allot of "colorful tips"

none of them would be safe

anyone here know how making a "correct lid or riser" is done without mail ordering $300 of plastic and putting a fake plastic rock ($200) over it for a total of $500 or so ?

(hint - no plumbers or companies in area have them - they all order them and if the wrong size, the special order them. waiting is your problem not theirs. they stopped the practice in this area, you'd have to drive to the middle of VA to get to a place that makes them and has them to pick up in person.)

Good rainy day project Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> harry homeowner DiY Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> >

> >
> ________________________________________________
> >

> > ok lid is out of hole
> >
> > HOW TO MAKE NEW LID REPLACEMENT that doesn't
> suck
> > or someone won't fall throught ?
> >
> > (p.s. cannot pour concrete outdoors in winter -
> > not w/o special - freezes while curing damages
> it)
>
>
> You can put down some plastic sheeting in a
> one-car garage and do it there. MEASURE how wide
> and tall you want the thing and build a form. Aa
> plastic garbage can lid could be part of the form
> and even be part of the final installation.
> install the handle and bolts so they will be
> built-in the the concrete when it sets. Wire
> cloth/mesh in the mixture will make it wicked
> strong. Make this custom- you're not going to
> find one "on the shelf" in the size you need.
>
> You're going to post a photo of the completed lid
> and this epic hole, right? Ya got me curious!

fairly my lids are not 24.5" and lids are $25 (that's without the can)

THAT'S NOT WHY I shot down it down so quickly ...

.
Attachments:

> garbage can kids

what i didn't say is though the lid is 3-4" thick, it's only 1" where it broke (one corner, about 6" both sides, about 1" total)

and the hole has the same issue - only 1-2" left to hold the corner

"the right way (stop talking) the right way in that case is to use a riser"

_________________________________-

now as far as 24.5" for a rhomboid goes, a riser to cover it needs to be wider, or the corners will be exposed. unless you have some special $100 special fit rhomboid to riser adapter

_____________________________

so... how to make a cyclinder and lid safely ?

Dig'em bar Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> src=http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/proje
> cts/205107d1300828013-auger-dig-em-hand-what-post-
> bar-jpg>
>
> No, better yet, use two of them and wiggle it up.
>
> src=http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/proje
> cts/205107d1300828013-auger-dig-em-hand-what-post-
> bar-jpg>
>
> src=http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/proje
> cts/205107d1300828013-auger-dig-em-hand-what-post-
> bar-jpg>

true that is what they use, and that's why they break :) and that's how they get da money

Good rainy day project Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> harry homeowner DiY Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> >

> >
> ________________________________________________
> >

> > ok lid is out of hole
> >
> > HOW TO MAKE NEW LID REPLACEMENT that doesn't
> suck
> > or someone won't fall throught ?
> >
> > (p.s. cannot pour concrete outdoors in winter -
> > not w/o special - freezes while curing damages
> it)
>
>
> You can put down some plastic sheeting in a
> one-car garage and do it there

NO. it's winter. where are you going to find 7 curing days without freezing ?

I think you need more advice to complete your idea that doesn't work.

..
Attachments:

>> Be sure that the tank riser is secure since riser collapse (or falling in hole due to poor quality lid), can be fatal and has been fatal in the past

I would suggest using the laborers we have at every 7-11 and get it done quick before they get sent home

harry homeowner DiY Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> need tips: best ways to lift a 160 pound 2'x2'
> block of concrete out of 2' of soil with no chance
> of dropping it
>
> needs tips quick because winter will freeze the
> soil and cannot leave this "lid" out of the ground
> forever, or erosion will bring water / soil into
> the hole. the hole is worth several thousand
> dollars at least
>
> and tips on how to replace this lid with a new
> one, since they are no longer made. it's 2'x2',
> concrete, needs a handle
>
> IMAGE is from google - does not fit and bought
> from i don't know where (they are sold)

A 2' by 2' block of concrete would be about 600 lbs, not 160. Your photo shows and object slightly over 2 feet in diameter, weighing about 150 lbs. Somewhere you've got your facts wrong.

OP stated it was in a 2" deep hole. The easiest way to remove it is just break the thing up and take it out in smaller pieces. Use a sledgehammer and a metal spike, or an air chisel.

2'x2'x3" (or 4", rough pour) use a "concrete calculator", many online to taste

break it up kids Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> OP stated it was in a 2" deep hole. The easiest
> way to remove it is just break the thing up and
> take it out in smaller pieces. Use a sledgehammer
> and a metal spike, or an air chisel.


2 feet deep hole. Still very easy to break up in the hole.

You really don't get that circular objects don't get measured as "some number of feet by some number of feet"?

Yeah, the OP is high. He calls it a block. The hole is worth several thousand. What is this new story about a riser? If you add a riser you are going to need to worry about the frost line. That's why this block [sic] is 2' down.

Why are we removing it?

Why can't it be reused?

Is this septic? If so, you might need a license for this.

Concrete forms are made of wood. Build whatever shape you like.

Once you get the initial cure, a day or so, burying under 2' of soil will keep it from freezing.

Rhombus? What? No one makes rhomboid openings. Are you talking about a cross sectional profile?

Seriously, step away from the sewer fumes.

What is it a lid to? Is it for some kind of septic tank? Or a well?

Drill a couple pilot holes and insert an iron spike in the hole. Then hit the spike with a sledghammer. With the lid broken into pieces it will be easy to remove from a 2 foot deep hole. Just reach in and lift out the individual pieces.

Just use a fishing rod with high test mono line, not spider wire.

feet Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> break it up kids Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > OP stated it was in a 2" deep hole. The
> easiest
> > way to remove it is just break the thing up and
> > take it out in smaller pieces. Use a
> sledgehammer
> > and a metal spike, or an air chisel.
>
>
> 2 feet deep hole. Still very easy to break up in
> the hole.

please don't confuse me with harry homeowner DUI

and no.

the hole is on a grade so it's 2' and 1' both

also it was already said the hole is expensive and nothing can drop in it - ESPECIALLY 80 lb chunks of broken lid

_______________________________-

QUESTION #2: How to Make a safe lid that's 3' wide.

(how to remove an old lid was already answered!)

"QUESTION #2: How to Make a safe lid that's 3' wide."


Dude. Questions #1 AND #2 have been answered, multiple times. Build a mold out of wood. Reinforce the concrete with steel. Pour it in a garage or barn that does not freeze, or wait for a nice day (the next few days are all suitable), Lower it into place with a winch/gantry/engine hoist. Cover with straw so it can cure slowly without freezing. Is this so fucking difficult? Stop being so retarded and build the damned thing. End of conversation, you are being fucking ridiculous.

What's in the hole

Nothing is in the hole. The hole itself is valuable apparently.

What's the value of a hole you can't put anything in?

OK, so the confused OP has a 2'x2' block of concrete that he wants to replace with "QUESTION #2: How to Make a safe lid that's 3' wide."

Why replace "a 2'x2' block of concrete" with "a safe lid that's 3' wide." ?

harry homeowner DiY Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> feet Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > break it up kids Wrote:
> >
> --------------------------------------------------
>
> > -----
> > > OP stated it was in a 2" deep hole. The
> > easiest
> > > way to remove it is just break the thing up
> and
> > > take it out in smaller pieces. Use a
> > sledgehammer
> > > and a metal spike, or an air chisel.
> >
> >
> > 2 feet deep hole. Still very easy to break up
> in
> > the hole.
>
> please don't confuse me with harry homeowner DUI
>
> and no.
>
> the hole is on a grade so it's 2' and 1' both
>
> also it was already said the hole is expensive and
> nothing can drop in it - ESPECIALLY 80 lb chunks
> of broken lid

The lid is already in the hole, so how can breaking it into chunks possibly cause it to "drop in" the hole that it is already in?

OP, harry homeowner is a homo troll. Probably Wm. Moreno.

Do the math:

It's nonsense, and

It's about shit.

Buy bags of sakrete and just fill the whole hole.

Just fill the fucking whole hole Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Buy bags of sakrete and just fill the whole hole.

one bag...

720 bags of #60, but i'll consider it

___________________________________________________________________________

Question #2

how to build a lid 3' wide that is safe but light enough to lift

Septic fumes, apparently Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> "QUESTION #2: How to Make a safe lid that's 3'
> wide."
>
>
> Dude. Questions #1 AND #2 have been answered,
> multiple times. Build a mold out of wood.
> Reinforce the concrete with steel. Pour it in a
> garage or barn that does not freeze, or wait for a
> nice day (the next few days are all suitable),
> Lower it into place with a winch/gantry/engine
> hoist. Cover with straw so it can cure slowly
> without freezing. Is this so fucking difficult?
> Stop being so retarded and build the damned thing.
> End of conversation, you are being fucking
> ridiculous.

#0 no, no one has suggested reinforcement - certainly not what kind - and previously suggested garbage lids (wrong size, wrong height, will not hold a column of poured concrete and won't hold the contents for a lid either - and costs $25 at stores)

#0 no, certainly no one said use straw before. your an idiot - straw can only be bought in bails - and it's about $75 for a bail. not a first pick unless you happen to be a straw farmer (or a spic with access to fx co gov straw) !! (in past - many diy were also straw farmers, so the advice was popular)

#0 you didn't read. no one wants a lid that requires a winch or heavy machinery to transport and install. it must come off every 3 years.

#0 they dont cover (a column and lid) with straw to prevent freezing! that's not why straw is used in some concrete projects. you must have read some directions online very badly.

#0 you contradicted yourself. you said "a garage that never freezes", then said use straw to prevent freezing.

#0 you forgot to say a temperature meter is needed if using an ad-hoc method to prevent freezing - since you are totally CLUELESS about what exactly the temperature might be

TOTALLY CLUELESS

---------------------------------------------

#1 Ok so you have a garage or barn guaranteed not to freeze for a week (at least a few days) to lend me ? it so happens i don't have one. indoors seems easier in the winter, all things considered. why try to change that to outdoors?

#2 a 3' round mold out of wood. how did you cost that one out? and a bail of hay $75, and a $25 questionable use garbage can lid, too?

(HINT to others: i think the question is about structural design, not about garbage can lids. how much re-inforcement - and will the "required re-inforcement" fit within the concrete to poured, end up so one person can install it, and be safe and hopefully not have cracking issues - which would let in ground-water ?)

^^ posted by harry homeowner DiY - sorry i pasted code

again, it needs to be around 3' not just because the old diameter is nearly 28", but because the hole itself is eroded at the same corner the old lid was. (putting allot of weight there may certainly cause problems - including death if one is very un-careful about doing it - 1.5" of concrete cannot hold a person)

Why don't you just eat a bag of dicks?

if it wasnt on here I would offer my Backhoe for like 50.00 but being on this rag, I would suggest getting an engine hoist at a place that rents them or offer a person with a Snow plow 50-100 to have them use their plow pump to lift it out.
.

Or Just steal any Manhole Cover, preferably on a Major Roadway.

http://tgwastewater.com/tuf-tite-universal-heavy-duty-flat-lid?utm_source=nextag&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=Tuf-Tite%2024%22%20Flat%20Lid

OP, you are high on crack. Please go hire someone to do this work already.

Several have suggested reinforcement. Metal grid, rebar or mesh in the concrete mix. Since you aren't building a fucking bridge you don't need pre-stressed cables embedded.

You can buy straw at the local hardware store. They usually have a bale or two kicking around the lawn and garden supply area. You need this to insulate the concrete while it sets up. Of course, you could use something else. But straw was suggested because it is fairly easy to remove and biodegradable. You could also use fiberglass or dirt.

And yes, you can do this in a garage for the initial cure. After 24 hours, you can install the cover. Then you cover it with the straw so it is below the frost line. At 2' below grade, it _never_ freezes here but you can't leave it exposed to the night sky our the concrete will freeze. But it can cure slowly over the next couple months below grade. Try to focus when sequential steps are provided. You can't just dump everything into the hole and hope it forms a cover.

No lid is going to prevent ground water from getting in if this is a 2' below grade. You could place a seal on it but that isn't going to help much.

You want a 3' disc of concrete thicker than 1.5" (which you say is too thin). Well, a 3' disc of 1.5" thickness is already 132 lbs. So, no you can't make a lid from concrete that you will be able to lift out of the hole without lifting equipment.

http://inspectapedia.com/septic/Septic_Cesspool_Design_Strengths.php

The above provides the loading factors you need to make your cover.

As for the forms, the suggests of existing lids are a good idea if you didn't need something that is likely 4" thick. You are going to need to build this out of wood. That's traditional and time tested. You could also build it out of anything you would like. But since you likely have a hammer, wood is the choice. Yes, it is going to cost money to build the form. You can't get around this. You don't need finish grade material though. 2x4's nailed onto a sheet of exterior grade plywood should do the job. Nail into a rough circle. Cut with jigsaw into a circle (You might need to buy string and a pencil to mark it out -- Please allocate a few dollars for useless string and pencils).

Or, TL;DR -- I need to make an $500 cover for $0.05? How do I do this?

"#0 you forgot to say a temperature meter is needed if using an ad-hoc method to prevent freezing - since you are totally CLUELESS about what exactly the temperature might be

TOTALLY CLUELESS"

OK you must be trolling. No one is as stupid as you make yourself out to be. Behold the simple dolt who calls others clueless, and natters on about the cost of scrap wood that you can get for free just about anywhere, and the temperature, which will be above freezing for the next few days. Well played. Nobody want to help you anymore.

https://youtu.be/CYS4GqX5E70


Horrible form, but a great ass and she's stronger than the phaggot OP.

Word yourself Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> My wife and I could lift Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > word. My wife and I could lift that shit up
> out
> > of the hole for fucks sake. If it breaks buy
> 20
> > dollars worth of rebar, mesh and concrete and
> make
> > 2 more. How is this a problem?
>
> That's nice. OP didn't ask for opprobrium, he
> asked for suggestions.
>
> And being able to lift 160lb is not the same as
> being able to lift it from 2' deep in a hole, with
> perhaps sharp edges, and mud and slime making
> things worse, and hoping not to drop the damned
> thing.
>
> Grow up. And as your mother taught you, if you
> don't have something useful to contribute, don't
> say anything at all, hm?

you have to be kidding. With webbing 4 2x4 cut to 4 feet each you could easily lift the thing straight up on your shouldlers (2 people opposed with a board on each shoulder) using your legs. Have a neighbor slide 2 2x4's under the lid when it clears the ground. Slide it off. I assure an adult of average strength can squat lift 80lbs 2.5 feet.

Jesus the world is filled with dummies.

done and done Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> OK you must be trolling. No one is as stupid as
> you make yourself out to be. Behold the simple
> dolt who calls others clueless, and natters on
> about the cost of scrap wood that you can get for
> free just about anywhere, and the temperature,
> which will be above freezing for the next few
> days. Well played. Nobody want to help you
> anymore.

Yeah, most typical homeowners should have enough scrap wood laying around to complete this project already. If I had to make a sewer/cesspool cover, I probably wouldn't even bother with round (making circles is tedious and often pointless unless you making more than one of something). Use 2x4's to make a octagon sized to the diameter of the hole with a second tier of 2x4's to some particular outer octagon so it doesn't fall in. So it would be about 3" thick. I would likely try to match the thickness of the original cover since you have one. Someone else did the math -- They probably weren't you and got it right.

Rental - $190 a day Worth it just have some fun. Combine the day with some other projects like putting in yard sprinkler system.

http://www.dandbrentals.com/equipment.asp?action=category&category=38&key=EXCAVATOR323

You know you want too!
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melt it then stick your penis in it

Bunch of non-pros up in here.

Here's ya tip fam.

It's gonna cost you a hundred bucks to dispose of that top slab properly. Dig next to it, and bury the slab.

You have a standard 2x2 utility box. It's standard. Buy another one or cip.

Done.

c4pwC Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Bunch of non-pros up in here.
>
> Here's ya tip fam.
>
> It's gonna cost you a hundred bucks to dispose of
> that top slab properly. Dig next to it, and bury
> the slab.
>
> You have a standard 2x2 utility box. It's
> standard. Buy another one or cip.
>
> Done.

The lid is already in the hole. He can just break it up with an air hammer or sledge, then take out the pieces. The hole won't be damaged.

Small pieces of concrete are easy to dispose of. You can throw them practically anywhere, in the woods, a stream, the beltway, etc. (not the beltway that was a joke.)

Apparently there is a hole under the hole. But we can't tell you what that hole is. Only what that hole isn't. It's very valuable as well. Because apparently it's made of nothing. Which is valuable.

OP should post up some photos. Sounds as if he needs to do some repair to the opening of underground structure (hole?) and he may be able to re-use or build onto the original lid/bung square/round cap.
OP, stop posting stock images of what it DOESN'T look like and post one of the real thing, it it isn't too secret to be divulged.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/18/2017 05:05PM by Nova ph.

From the sounds of it, this is most likely a missile silo left over from the Cuban crisis.

Missile Silo Wrote:
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> From the sounds of it, this is most likely a
> missile silo left over from the Cuban crisis.


Or a Bomb Shelter for outgoing Obama or Incoming Trump..

9C3XH Wrote:
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> OP, you are high on crack. Please go hire someone
> to do this work already.
>
> Several have suggested reinforcement.

ONLY ONE HAD when you posted that comment - the one who obviously knows nothing about the problem - who suggested using a sledge hammer to remove lid (is clueless what kind of lid it is, which is OP's game to let the clueless wonder).

XEbKu Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> done and done Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > free just about anywhere, and the temperature,
> > which will be above freezing for the next few
> > days. Well played. Nobody want to help you
> > anymore.

sure. and it always snows when snow is predicted ! :)

> I probably wouldn't even bother with round (making
> circles is tedious and often pointless unless you
> making more than one of something).

+1

most assy are round. i thought after making cage why round? i then though - is welding a box any easier than bending hoops with less welds? answer: no. is making a form for box easier? answer: yes. does wood cost money? yes. looking back i'd rather have saved effort on molding and done the extra welding.

(note OP didn't use cheap wire-tying, since specs and material budget are kinda tight)

it's round now ! what they hay !

Long Slong Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Rental - $190 a day Worth it just have some fun.
> Combine the day with some other projects like
> putting in yard sprinkler system.
>
> http://www.dandbrentals.com/equipment.asp?action=c
> ategory&category=38&key=EXCAVATOR323
>
> You know you want too!

This discussion should help to warn property owners, particularly those with small lots, that a site can be permanently ruined for the placement of any possible septic system by excavating the area without knowledge of the underlying soil conditions. I have seen property destroyed in an hour by an inexperienced excavator simply trying to "clean up" a piece of land by flattening a spot for the house.

If the soil is poor, or too shallow, why not bring in some good soil to replace it? Once ordinary dirt from a site has been disturbed or moved, it will not support proper septic functioning. The soil will fail in a few weeks. This is just one of the mysteries of soil. This applies to natural sand, dredging spoils, potting soil and all imported dirt. Once soil is left undisturbed for a few thousand years, microorganisms and other large and small forces of nature create a condition called soil structure. This naturally changes the soil making it suitable for use as a treatment medium. A designer or soil expert is trained and experienced at determining soil structure by throwing a hand pick at the soil face, and by feeling (texturing) the soil and other tests. Most home-owners and do-it-yourselfers would not be able to recognize poor soil structure and should not determine system size in areas known to have difficult sites for septic.

with no experience and $190/day backhoe - you could ruin your budget if you take more than a day (why it's best to hire someone at that stage)

YOU COULD PERMANENTLY CAUSE THE LAND TO BE UN-USABLE EVER (until connected to the city pipes)

(WITHOUT TENS OF THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS - NOT INCLUDING CONTINUAL PUMPING FEES)

(ie, that part of project engineering isn't part of the discussion)

.
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yea not sure i want that in back yard - it might read "property of china" or something !

anyway - if they can be found 3' wide - what's the shipping on that? it's gotta be expensive - but i dunno yet

i can make one for less than $30 - but i'd rather have a "snap looking cover"

you should paint it ! beauty is never a bad thing !

glad i'm not paying taxes in whatever city this is !!

in some towns - your gov workers must create articles on how to review them, and make a youtube video so the public has access !

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yGncKzSbF7I

I would suggest a different style of lid using metal or fibreglass. If you are going to be opening it up more than a couple times a week, hinges would make the job a lot easier. It's a lot more easy to affix hinges on a metal or fibreglass lid than one made out of concrete. It will be a little more expensive up front, but will easier to deal with over the long run.

http://www.vpcfiberglass.com/hinged_manhole_cover.shtml
https://www.aquatechnologygroup.com/product-category/manholes/hinged-manhole-covers/
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