I am shopping for a new car(no hurry), and I shocked at the way some dealers treat their customers.

All of the TV ads promise they are the best, but when you get there it is like a third world bazar.

Three words.
Use a broker.

Who needs the hassle and you get a great price.
Well worth it.

Go to the car show at the convention center.
You can learn everything about the cars and they can't sell you one

I have dealt with Jerrys Chevrolet in Leesburg 2000, McKay Chevrolet in Fairfax 2004 and Sheehy Ford 2010 in Springfield and most recently Tedd Britt Chevrolet 2015 in Sterling. I have not been happy with Tedd Britt after buying the 1st truck in 1985 from them and expected no better this time around, just they had the vehicle I wanted in stock. I would suggest going in knowing what you want and what your going to pay for it. I use my Credit Union for all financial so I am going in with a check, they all like to add on what they can get away with. Trade in is better off getting sold on Craigslist. As for friendliness, I had no issue with any of them and would buy from any of them again. I for one only go to buy the vehicle all other service or warranty needs I have other avenues and dont rely on the dealer after the 12,000, 12 months warranty or 24 month service plan but Tedd Britt now offers lifetime Battery, Inspections and Windshields as long as you get service done there, . Go in Informed and stick to your guns, if they want the sale they will bow.

dealers here suck. what are you looking for? I wanted a jeep wrangler, nobody local had what I wanted. I spent a few hours pulling VIN's from jeeps in the nearby dealerships, cut/pasted the number into the factory window sticker site to see what options there were. Found the exact jeep I wanted out in Warrenton, negotiated via email and drove out to buy. Way better price than USAA, NFCU, Costco, or Trucar were willing to give me.

Sheehy springfield Subaru is great. Non-commision salesmen help
Sherry ford was OK, got a decent deal on a Shelby, but had to use their Ashland, VA dealership, not springfield.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/13/2016 08:22PM by zimm.

Hi,

They are all horrible. You have to be the aggressive one. They'll cut a deal if they know you have the leverage.

First, figure out how much your spending. All cash or finance? If you are financing, try to get a loan from another source. That way you can have "the cash" ready to buy. They'll try to get you to finance through them. However, I bought a car a few years ago and the dealership had the best rate. So, apply with them for the loan, but keep options open.

Second, after you figure what you can spend, test drive every car in that class. Sometimes I go out on Saturdays just to goof at the dealership and drive cars.

Now you have the car you want, find out from the dealer what the "invoice price" is. That's the cost the dealership paid for the car. Which is BS anyway because they paid a lot lower than the invoice price, but you'll never know and legally, they don't have to tell you. Offer $2K below invoice. That's it.
Walk away if they don't agree. I went through 4 Honda dealerships before I got the price I wanted. If your there to buy, they'll deal.

Don't buy the extended warranty(yet). Tell them you might buy one later. Ted Britt has a warranty for life as long as you own your car and do all the service at their shop. New cars have a factory warranty, so your covered for awhile anyway. They want you to finance their warranty.

They try to confuse you with the "bottom line" price. Like how much you can pay a month. So, you start seeing low number, not realizing that you're actually paying more, because the total cost of the vehicle is still high. So, agree to a price, then worry about monthly payment costs.

The difference between $20,000 and $25,000 with interest added over 5 years is only a few bucks a month, but if you overpay, your car will be worth less than you owe, and you'll be upside down on the loan. Cars depreciate very fast.

You'll have to pay:
Cost of car
Dealer prep
Paperwork fee
Tax
tags

They might entice you by waving the dealer prep or paperwork fee. Don't fall for it. The bottom line is get the price of the car first. If that's low enough, everything else is moot. Tax and tags is Virginia, so your stuck with that cost.

Good luck and I can answer any questions you might have

Aaron

I'm sure taking advice from an idiot who does not know the difference between "your" and "you're" is a good idea.

I HAAAAAAATE buying a car. It's always a horrible ordeal that wastes an entire day. Tesla is going to shake things up with their way of doing sales though.

Great reply by Aaron above. That pretty much covers everything you really need to know about making it as painless as possible and not lose your shirt.

I'll say this: You'll find the best deal on a car when you don't need it asap, and you'll pay thru the nose when you really have to have one.

Lastly, Ourisman in Alexandria has struck me two fair & square deals on a Focus and an F-150 in the past recently...ask for Chappy there. And I got jerked around at Jerry's & Koons.

I work in sales for one of the best selling japanense cars at one of the areas biggest dealerships. Let me tell you, you can come in with all your truecar, costco, and credit union pricing and we will happily sell you the car for that price. If we don't make it on the front end, will make it up some where else, pocketing the rebate, lowing the offer on your trade-in, upping the rate on your financing (very few people in this area are paying cash for their new car, and even then we find ways to stick it to them), or at the back end (extended warranties, add-ons, etc.). Don't forget most dealers charge a processing fee and other fees, $699+ at my dealership, (read additional profit) that are usually non-negotiable!

On your trade-in, we use a service the gives an average price based on auctions and car max. We automatically reduce that price by $1000 even if the car is in perfect shape, as we can alwaYS find something wrong. Then, based on the price you are getting the car for, we may knock another $500 off. Don't like the trade in price. Sell it yourself. Most people can't do this because the car is financed and they can't afford two car payments. Or they need what little equity they have in the car to go towards their new ride! Or they are upside down and need to roll that into their new car financing!

I love confusing people with the worksheet and the green sharpie! Truecar/Costco/Credit Union price of the car not including freight that my sales manager has approved + freight + processing fee + advertising + add-ons + shipping (this is the cost of getting the car from the port/terminal to the dealership) + prep fee - rebates (if the customer mentions it, or if they are paying cash, add the rebate back-in saying that the great price they got included a financing rebate) + tags + VA state sales tax (4.10% on new cars).

Our average truecar/costco/credit union price on a Honda Accord LX is $21,500 +
$820 freight + $300 advertising + $299 shipping + $150 prep fee + $75 tags + $949 taxes = approximately $24,100 out the door!

Then you go see our business manager, who will sell you additional warranties, service plans, protection packages, etc. She is really good, and usually customers don't leave her office without purchasing at least $1,000 worth of add-ons!

I only pay invoice price that includes freight/shipping. I get the rebates if any apply, and a portion of the holdback.

I sell my trade.

I pay Virginia taxes and tags, and finance through Navy Fed Credit Union.

I never purchase any dealer add on items or services.

Because it is all about me.

Car Sales Guy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I work in sales for one of the best selling
> japanense cars at one of the areas biggest
> dealerships. Let me tell you, you can come in
> with all your truecar, costco, and credit union
> pricing and we will happily sell you the car for
> that price. If we don't make it on the front end,
> will make it up some where else, pocketing the
> rebate, lowing the offer on your trade-in, upping
> the rate on your financing (very few people in
> this area are paying cash for their new car, and
> even then we find ways to stick it to them), or at
> the back end (extended warranties, add-ons, etc.).
> Don't forget most dealers charge a processing fee
> and other fees, $699+ at my dealership, (read
> additional profit) that are usually
> non-negotiable!
>
> On your trade-in, we use a service the gives an
> average price based on auctions and car max. We
> automatically reduce that price by $1000 even if
> the car is in perfect shape, as we can alwaYS find
> something wrong. Then, based on the price you are
> getting the car for, we may knock another $500
> off. Don't like the trade in price. Sell it
> yourself. Most people can't do this because the
> car is financed and they can't afford two car
> payments. Or they need what little equity they
> have in the car to go towards their new ride! Or
> they are upside down and need to roll that into
> their new car financing!
>
> I love confusing people with the worksheet and the
> green sharpie! Truecar/Costco/Credit Union price
> of the car not including freight that my sales
> manager has approved + freight + processing fee +
> advertising + add-ons + shipping (this is the
> cost of getting the car from the port/terminal to
> the dealership) + prep fee - rebates (if the
> customer mentions it, or if they are paying cash,
> add the rebate back-in saying that the great price
> they got included a financing rebate) + tags + VA
> state sales tax (4.10% on new cars).
>
> Our average truecar/costco/credit union price on a
> Honda Accord LX is $21,500 +
> $820 freight + $300 advertising + $299 shipping +
> $150 prep fee + $75 tags + $949 taxes =
> approximately $24,100 out the door!
>
> Then you go see our business manager, who will
> sell you additional warranties, service plans,
> protection packages, etc. She is really good, and
> usually customers don't leave her office without
> purchasing at least $1,000 worth of add-ons!



You sound like a real credit to your "profession."

this is simple:

# how close are they to going rate "blue book" (if equal or over, refuse)

# how well did the previous driver adhere to the user's manual? you'll need a mechanic to give you a best guess

a car which is well owned lasts 2x, 3x more than a car that had a peice of shit drive who "reduced costs by never getting suggested maintenance"

Soiled Motors Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Car Sales Guy Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > I work in sales for one of the best selling
> > japanense cars at one of the areas biggest
> > dealerships. Let me tell you, you can come in
> > with all your truecar, costco, and credit union
> > pricing and we will happily sell you the car
> for
> > that price. If we don't make it on the front
> end,
> > will make it up some where else, pocketing the
> > rebate, lowing the offer on your trade-in,
> upping
> > the rate on your financing (very few people in
> > this area are paying cash for their new car,
> and
> > even then we find ways to stick it to them), or
> at
> > the back end (extended warranties, add-ons,
> etc.).
> > Don't forget most dealers charge a processing
> fee
> > and other fees, $699+ at my dealership, (read
> > additional profit) that are usually
> > non-negotiable!
> >
> > On your trade-in, we use a service the gives an
> > average price based on auctions and car max.
> We
> > automatically reduce that price by $1000 even
> if
> > the car is in perfect shape, as we can alwaYS
> find
> > something wrong. Then, based on the price you
> are
> > getting the car for, we may knock another $500
> > off. Don't like the trade in price. Sell it
> > yourself. Most people can't do this because
> the
> > car is financed and they can't afford two car
> > payments. Or they need what little equity they
> > have in the car to go towards their new ride!
> Or
> > they are upside down and need to roll that into
> > their new car financing!
> >
> > I love confusing people with the worksheet and
> the
> > green sharpie! Truecar/Costco/Credit Union
> price
> > of the car not including freight that my sales
> > manager has approved + freight + processing fee
> +
> > advertising + add-ons + shipping (this is the
> > cost of getting the car from the port/terminal
> to
> > the dealership) + prep fee - rebates (if the
> > customer mentions it, or if they are paying
> cash,
> > add the rebate back-in saying that the great
> price
> > they got included a financing rebate) + tags +
> VA
> > state sales tax (4.10% on new cars).
> >
> > Our average truecar/costco/credit union price on
> a
> > Honda Accord LX is $21,500 +
> > $820 freight + $300 advertising + $299 shipping
> +
> > $150 prep fee + $75 tags + $949 taxes =
> > approximately $24,100 out the door!
> >
> > Then you go see our business manager, who will
> > sell you additional warranties, service plans,
> > protection packages, etc. She is really good,
> and
> > usually customers don't leave her office
> without
> > purchasing at least $1,000 worth of add-ons!
>
>
>
> You sound like a real credit to your "profession."


But he's being honest. That's what it's like, full of scumbags and sociopaths. I needed a job right after college so I worked at a dealership for about six months. I wouldn't play their games and screw over people I knew (small town) so I didn't make a lot, but enough for the time.

Uhhh, good one skippy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I'm sure taking advice from an idiot who does not
> know the difference between "your" and "you're" is
> a good idea.

Phew, the "your and you're police" are here. Thank you for YOUR service, sir.

It's easier just to not have a car and live by public transportation (or bike or walk). And push for more of it. Who needs the crap below.


Car Sales Guy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I work in sales for one of the best selling
> japanense cars at one of the areas biggest
> dealerships. Let me tell you, you can come in
> with all your truecar, costco, and credit union
> pricing and we will happily sell you the car for
> that price. If we don't make it on the front end,
> will make it up some where else, pocketing the
> rebate, lowing the offer on your trade-in, upping
> the rate on your financing (very few people in
> this area are paying cash for their new car, and
> even then we find ways to stick it to them), or at
> the back end (extended warranties, add-ons, etc.).
> Don't forget most dealers charge a processing fee
> and other fees, $699+ at my dealership, (read
> additional profit) that are usually
> non-negotiable!
>
> On your trade-in, we use a service the gives an
> average price based on auctions and car max. We
> automatically reduce that price by $1000 even if
> the car is in perfect shape, as we can alwaYS find
> something wrong. Then, based on the price you are
> getting the car for, we may knock another $500
> off. Don't like the trade in price. Sell it
> yourself. Most people can't do this because the
> car is financed and they can't afford two car
> payments. Or they need what little equity they
> have in the car to go towards their new ride! Or
> they are upside down and need to roll that into
> their new car financing!
>
> I love confusing people with the worksheet and the
> green sharpie! Truecar/Costco/Credit Union price
> of the car not including freight that my sales
> manager has approved + freight + processing fee +
> advertising + add-ons + shipping (this is the
> cost of getting the car from the port/terminal to
> the dealership) + prep fee - rebates (if the
> customer mentions it, or if they are paying cash,
> add the rebate back-in saying that the great price
> they got included a financing rebate) + tags + VA
> state sales tax (4.10% on new cars).
>
> Our average truecar/costco/credit union price on a
> Honda Accord LX is $21,500 +
> $820 freight + $300 advertising + $299 shipping +
> $150 prep fee + $75 tags + $949 taxes =
> approximately $24,100 out the door!
>
> Then you go see our business manager, who will
> sell you additional warranties, service plans,
> protection packages, etc. She is really good, and
> usually customers don't leave her office without
> purchasing at least $1,000 worth of add-ons!

Car Sales Guy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I work in sales for one of the best selling
> japanense cars at one of the areas biggest
> dealerships. Let me tell you, you can come in
> with all your truecar, costco, and credit union
> pricing and we will happily sell you the car for
> that price. If we don't make it on the front end,
> will make it up some where else, pocketing the
> rebate, lowing the offer on your trade-in, upping
> the rate on your financing (very few people in
> this area are paying cash for their new car, and
> even then we find ways to stick it to them), or at
> the back end (extended warranties, add-ons, etc.).
> Don't forget most dealers charge a processing fee
> and other fees, $699+ at my dealership, (read
> additional profit) that are usually
> non-negotiable!
>
> On your trade-in, we use a service the gives an
> average price based on auctions and car max. We
> automatically reduce that price by $1000 even if
> the car is in perfect shape, as we can alwaYS find
> something wrong. Then, based on the price you are
> getting the car for, we may knock another $500
> off. Don't like the trade in price. Sell it
> yourself. Most people can't do this because the
> car is financed and they can't afford two car
> payments. Or they need what little equity they
> have in the car to go towards their new ride! Or
> they are upside down and need to roll that into
> their new car financing!
>
> I love confusing people with the worksheet and the
> green sharpie! Truecar/Costco/Credit Union price
> of the car not including freight that my sales
> manager has approved + freight + processing fee +
> advertising + add-ons + shipping (this is the
> cost of getting the car from the port/terminal to
> the dealership) + prep fee - rebates (if the
> customer mentions it, or if they are paying cash,
> add the rebate back-in saying that the great price
> they got included a financing rebate) + tags + VA
> state sales tax (4.10% on new cars).
>
> Our average truecar/costco/credit union price on a
> Honda Accord LX is $21,500 +
> $820 freight + $300 advertising + $299 shipping +
> $150 prep fee + $75 tags + $949 taxes =
> approximately $24,100 out the door!
>
> Then you go see our business manager, who will
> sell you additional warranties, service plans,
> protection packages, etc. She is really good, and
> usually customers don't leave her office without
> purchasing at least $1,000 worth of add-ons!

Good insight thanks for your honesty. Screw people that hate you for doing your job. you are there to make money for you and the dealer. Ive walked out of many dealerships because of bait and switches but it wasnt personal - I expected it. Had a salesman drive me to a dealership to pick up a car I was buying and they switched the specs on the car when I got there expecting I would take it anyway. We drove back in silence without a sale. Amazing what they think they can get away with.

Anyone deal with CarMax? Will they negotiate? How about their BS add-on fees?

I've dealt with two dealerships:

-- Ted Britt Ford
-- Fairfax Honda

Ted Britt Ford was an absolute nightmare. They are a disorganized mess.

Fairfax Honda was great. Bought a used Honda Odysssey there. Yes, I am a "van man." Great price, no crazy pressure tactics.

This might be true of your dealer but not all. I'm guessing you work for a Rosenthal dealership, most of which are gone now. Never buy from a dealer that doesn't readily give out their name, like Fairfax Honda, they are probably trying to hide who their ownership is.

I bought a Subaru using the Costco price. First I negotiated the price on my own (it was fairly easy as all info on what you should be paying is on the internet). Then I told the salesman I was interested in seeing the Costco price. It was my price my a couple hundred dollars. No more BS on top. They tried to sell me a ton of crap in finance, but I just said no thank you. They probably made a little money off the financing (but not much since it was around 1%) and the stupid dealer processing fee.

Btw, I had a desirable trade that they were able to sell on their lot (Miata in June is easy to sell) and they gave me more than I thought I would get.

Can you save a little money shopping around for months, sure, but is a few hundred dollars really worth hours of your time? Maybe, or maybe you buy the car at a fair price for both you and the dealer.

Zero negotiations at Car Max when buying or selling/trading. What you see is what you get. You will pay more, but you won't deal with sleazy car salesmen.

They have some add-ons, like extended warranties (they are probably the best used car warranties, but very costly), but not nearly as bad as some of these other guys.

CarMax? Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Anyone deal with CarMax? Will they
> negotiate? How about their BS add-on fees?


Yes we've bought and sold 7 cars there. Very happy with them. That is the great thing about carmax you don't have to negotiate. What you see is what you get. I do know they add on tax or some other fees but still think they are a great deal. Get you tags and everything done there at once.

So how can I get out from paying that $599.00 process fee?

How much are they paying their staff to process paperwork on the computer?

I understand dealers in MD do not charge the process paperwork fee.

Huge rip off -

Car Sales Guy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I work in sales for one of the best selling
> japanense cars at one of the areas biggest
> dealerships. Let me tell you, you can come in
> with all your truecar, costco, and credit union
> pricing and we will happily sell you the car for
> that price. If we don't make it on the front end,
> will make it up some where else, pocketing the
> rebate, lowing the offer on your trade-in, upping
> the rate on your financing (very few people in
> this area are paying cash for their new car, and
> even then we find ways to stick it to them), or at
> the back end (extended warranties, add-ons, etc.).
> Don't forget most dealers charge a processing fee
> and other fees, $699+ at my dealership, (read
> additional profit) that are usually
> non-negotiable!
>
> On your trade-in, we use a service the gives an
> average price based on auctions and car max. We
> automatically reduce that price by $1000 even if
> the car is in perfect shape, as we can alwaYS find
> something wrong. Then, based on the price you are
> getting the car for, we may knock another $500
> off. Don't like the trade in price. Sell it
> yourself. Most people can't do this because the
> car is financed and they can't afford two car
> payments. Or they need what little equity they
> have in the car to go towards their new ride! Or
> they are upside down and need to roll that into
> their new car financing!
>
> I love confusing people with the worksheet and the
> green sharpie! Truecar/Costco/Credit Union price
> of the car not including freight that my sales
> manager has approved + freight + processing fee +
> advertising + add-ons + shipping (this is the
> cost of getting the car from the port/terminal to
> the dealership) + prep fee - rebates (if the
> customer mentions it, or if they are paying cash,
> add the rebate back-in saying that the great price
> they got included a financing rebate) + tags + VA
> state sales tax (4.10% on new cars).
>
> Our average truecar/costco/credit union price on a
> Honda Accord LX is $21,500 +
> $820 freight + $300 advertising + $299 shipping +
> $150 prep fee + $75 tags + $949 taxes =
> approximately $24,100 out the door!
>
> Then you go see our business manager, who will
> sell you additional warranties, service plans,
> protection packages, etc. She is really good, and
> usually customers don't leave her office without
> purchasing at least $1,000 worth of add-ons!


I would take great pleasure in assaulting both you and your scum bag sales manager with a crowbar.

I bought a vehicle from Carmax Woodbridge four years ago. It was sharp with low miles and a clean Carfax. I had tons of front end problems which cost a few thousand dollars. I took it in for trade a few days ago and the dealer came at me with a dirty Carfax. It had been wrecked in the front end earlier that year. I am about the rake them for big bucks.

IN 2009 bought a 2006 Nissan Pathfinder from the CM - Dulles Lot. That was the biggest piece of crap I have ever owned, and I drove Ford Pintos in college.

Within 2 years of purchase the Nissan needed all new tires, brakes and rotors. radiator replacement, transmission overhaul, front drive shaft for the 4x4, steering column replacement.

Purchased at 31K -problems started the day after I took it home. Every time it was in their shop it was a minimum of 1 week.

Still spent 5k in repairs with what the "extended warranty" failed to cover.

Carmax and Carfax are not the same. No experiences with Carfax. Carmax is great.

Be wary of some Carmax cars that are a year old with 20-30K miles. Those were rentals, and if most people drive a rental like I drive a rental, I wouldn't buy it.

zimm Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>
> Sheehy springfield Subaru is great. Non-commision
> salesmen help

They will hawk the whole 'service plan and extended warranty' b.s. when you're closing.
But generally are good.

I am a multiple car CARMAX buyer.

I concede that I end up paying a bit more for the car than if I shopped around and really bargained for the car.

I choose cars with 20,000 miles or less. And I look for cars that depreciate quite a bit. This might sound odd since models which depreciate quickly reach their price point for a reason. But I find the used car market oddly inefficient. My latest purchase is a 2013 Buick Lacrosse - it must have depreciated 20,000 dollars since new, and it is completely loaded and very reliable. It is a really nice car, albeit no BMW in terms of power or handling. I don't buy the car if it has come off the rental lot, and look for the ones coming off lease (it is part of the records, just ask). Yes, I buy the overpriced warranty too, in case of a major repair, but the CARMAX experience is just so much less of a hassle.

I have paid some of the cars in cash, but on others I have come with a credit union voucher in hand. CARMAX has matched or beat the interest rate each time. My credit is very very good, so my experience may be different than others.

Look, I get it. I could get cheaper and perhaps luckier. But I have obtained really nice cars at prices ridiculously lower in price than the new counterparts, and it works for me. Someone more talented than me with auto knowledge or vigilance in negotiation could do better. CARMAX strikes the right balance for me.

http://www.cars.com/

I just completed negotiations on a new car by emailing a bunch of dealers with my exact specs (I already knew it would be a factory order) and essentially conducted a reverse auction. I cast a wide net and started with 10 at the beginning of the week, informing all of each new low bid and giving them a chance to beat it. By this morning, 7 had dropped out saying they couldn't go any lower. This evening I signed the order and made the deposit with the winner. I was in and out of the dealership in about 25 minutes. This way I had each commitment in writing and forced them to compete. A bunch tried to get my phone number or asked me to call them. I just said no, email only and didn't give our my number to any of them. Used cars are different, but I'd you know exactly what you want, new cars are just a commodity and I think it's best to make them compete.

Email is the way Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I just completed negotiations on a new car by
> emailing a bunch of dealers with my exact specs (I
> already knew it would be a factory order) and
> essentially conducted a reverse auction. I cast a
> wide net and started with 10 at the beginning of
> the week, informing all of each new low bid and
> giving them a chance to beat it. By this morning,
> 7 had dropped out saying they couldn't go any
> lower. This evening I signed the order and made
> the deposit with the winner. I was in and out of
> the dealership in about 25 minutes. This way I had
> each commitment in writing and forced them to
> compete. A bunch tried to get my phone number or
> asked me to call them. I just said no, email only
> and didn't give our my number to any of them. Used
> cars are different, but I'd you know exactly what
> you want, new cars are just a commodity and I
> think it's best to make them compete.

Nicely done.

My approach was to marry a sales rep; now when we buy something like a car, my job is to look worried, say "I dunno, it's a lot of money" now and then, and let her beat the dealership into submission. By the time she's done, it's a lot LESS money :)

I don't know why anybody buys an extended warranty when they buy the car.

I bought a new Toyota 8 years ago and they're STILL trying to sell me an extended warranty. Not the aftermarket crap either, a Toyota extended warranty.

The rust proofing acid rain scare always gets me. Do you see the car I'm trading in? It's paint had fared just fine over the last 9 years. No I don't want your special coating!!

Rosenthief is the worst!

A question if I might. I'm looking to buy a new Lexus. Can the price of a Lexus be negotiated, or is what you see is what you get?

Petey Greene Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> A question if I might. I'm looking to buy a new
> Lexus. Can the price of a Lexus be negotiated, or
> is what you see is what you get?


Everything in life can be negotiated - Let the buyer beware.

Email is the way Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I just completed negotiations on a new car by
> emailing a bunch of dealers with my exact specs (I
> already knew it would be a factory order) and
> essentially conducted a reverse auction. I cast a
> wide net and started with 10 at the beginning of
> the week, informing all of each new low bid and
> giving them a chance to beat it. By this morning,
> 7 had dropped out saying they couldn't go any
> lower. This evening I signed the order and made
> the deposit with the winner. I was in and out of
> the dealership in about 25 minutes. This way I had
> each commitment in writing and forced them to
> compete. A bunch tried to get my phone number or
> asked me to call them. I just said no, email only
> and didn't give our my number to any of them. Used
> cars are different, but I'd you know exactly what
> you want, new cars are just a commodity and I
> think it's best to make them compete.

Did this as well and it is the way to go. In our area, you have a lot of competition, even for luxury brands. Use that to your advantage. I bought a Toyota and probably emailed 15 dealers from near Baltimore to Stafford. Some tried to play games, others were straight shooters. For what it is worth, I bought at Miller in Manassas. I came in, the car was ready and we just signed the paperwork for the price we had agreed to on email.

Make sure you request "out the door" price, including all fees and bs they will try and charge. I told a salesman once that I don't care if they make the "dealer fee" $20,000 and sell me the car for 10k, I'm not playing more than 30.

Bring your own financing. Worst case is the dealer can beat it. Best case is you have a lower rate and they can't bump the rate on you. (A dealer may get you approved at 3%, but "bump" you to 4 and you'll never know it. They pocket the difference)

You can research just about everything these days. You can easily figure out what a good price is using forums. You want an extended warranty? Those can be had a discount too (and often online from another dealer) so figure what a good price is. Floor mats? Guarantee someone is selling them cheaper online, so tell the dealer what you are willing to pay.

Everything is negotiable except the registration costs. The dealer prep fee is only "mandatory" in that the dealer sales manager will beat up a salesman for budging on it. This is why you focus on out the door price.

An easy way to discount the dealer nonsense fee is to remember that Maryland caps the fee at $200. So when Fairfax Honda tries to tack on $699, ask why you shouldn't just drive across the river.

I get tired of being bombarded with calls and mailings about car warranties.

Billy Bassman Wrote:
---------------------------------------
>
> An easy way to discount the dealer nonsense fee is
> to remember that Maryland caps the fee at $200.
> So when Fairfax Honda tries to tack on $699, ask
> why you shouldn't just drive across the river.


FYI MD actually increased their cap to $300 a couple years ago. Doesn't change your argument though, the fee is just one more money maker that they hope you will just accept.

Nicdoot Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Carmax and Carfax are not the same. No experiences
> with Carfax. Carmax is great.


Put Carfax in your favorite search engine.

Always buy a Certified used Toyota with less than 50K miles. You are safe till 100K for everything with free roadside assistance. Yes, they fix flats.

I always make a fake Yahoo account to search KBB or Caars.com. Once I buy, I never use it again.

Never give your real phone number. I use 571-000-0000 so they know it is fake but the inquiry goes through.

Ted Britt Ford has the worst customer service of any dealership I have dealt with.

You can't get anyone to call you back after you buy a car. So rude and lazy. The son is running the busniess into the ground. Buyer beware.

BillyBob Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Always buy a Certified used Toyota with less than
> 50K miles. You are safe till 100K for everything
> with free roadside assistance. Yes, they fix
> flats.
>
> I always make a fake Yahoo account to search KBB
> or Caars.com. Once I buy, I never use it again.
>
> Never give your real phone number. I use
> 571-000-0000 so they know it is fake but the
> inquiry goes through.

I maintain a Google Voice number for dealing with sales people. Can still do business if I choose to, but don't need to worry about them harassing my main number.

Billy Bassman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Email is the way Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > I just completed negotiations on a new car by
> > emailing a bunch of dealers with my exact specs
> (I
> > already knew it would be a factory order) and
> > essentially conducted a reverse auction. I cast
> a
> > wide net and started with 10 at the beginning
> of
> > the week, informing all of each new low bid and
> > giving them a chance to beat it. By this
> morning,
> > 7 had dropped out saying they couldn't go any
> > lower. This evening I signed the order and made
> > the deposit with the winner. I was in and out
> of
> > the dealership in about 25 minutes. This way I
> had
> > each commitment in writing and forced them to
> > compete. A bunch tried to get my phone number
> or
> > asked me to call them. I just said no, email
> only
> > and didn't give our my number to any of them.
> Used
> > cars are different, but I'd you know exactly
> what
> > you want, new cars are just a commodity and I
> > think it's best to make them compete.
>
> Did this as well and it is the way to go. In our
> area, you have a lot of competition, even for
> luxury brands. Use that to your advantage. I
> bought a Toyota and probably emailed 15 dealers
> from near Baltimore to Stafford. Some tried to
> play games, others were straight shooters. For
> what it is worth, I bought at Miller in Manassas.
> I came in, the car was ready and we just signed
> the paperwork for the price we had agreed to on
> email.
>
> Make sure you request "out the door" price,
> including all fees and bs they will try and
> charge. I told a salesman once that I don't care
> if they make the "dealer fee" $20,000 and sell me
> the car for 10k, I'm not playing more than 30.
>
> Bring your own financing. Worst case is the
> dealer can beat it. Best case is you have a lower
> rate and they can't bump the rate on you. (A
> dealer may get you approved at 3%, but "bump" you
> to 4 and you'll never know it. They pocket the
> difference)
>
> You can research just about everything these days.
> You can easily figure out what a good price is
> using forums. You want an extended warranty?
> Those can be had a discount too (and often online
> from another dealer) so figure what a good price
> is. Floor mats? Guarantee someone is selling them
> cheaper online, so tell the dealer what you are
> willing to pay.
>
> Everything is negotiable except the registration
> costs. The dealer prep fee is only "mandatory" in
> that the dealer sales manager will beat up a
> salesman for budging on it. This is why you focus
> on out the door price.
>
> An easy way to discount the dealer nonsense fee is
> to remember that Maryland caps the fee at $200.
> So when Fairfax Honda tries to tack on $699, ask
> why you shouldn't just drive across the river.

I don't feel like writing about the entire experience, but I was able to get the stealership, tags, and other administrative fees waived over at Mercedes in Alexandria a few years ago. Essentially I told them that I have the cash right now to purchase and if they want to make a deal, here is the amount I will pay. Thankfully the sales manager approved it. I wouldn't buy from them again, though, as another family member bought pre-owned and they really stiffed them on fixing issues that were supposed to be covered.

I keep a simple generic email account for just such situations. Email all you want you parasites.

Yeah, everyone now trie to earn money and they don`t care about humanity. They just tell lies and try to hide defects of the car just to earn some cash. This century is so spoiled. Once I have bought a cra from internet and after researching rates for cross country car shipping I have ordered a shipping with one company. When the car came its condition didn`t correspond the description on the site. I had a lot of argue with a seller.

Buy from Costco

Fairfax Hyundai. Complete assholes.

Don't go anywhere near any dealership that says Rosenthal. And look carefully, they are so shady that they have changed the names of their stealerships.

USAA buying service. Good enough. Painless.

Rosenthief Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Don't go anywhere near any dealership that says
> Rosenthal. And look carefully, they are so shady
> that they have changed the names of their
> stealerships.

NAME CHANGE ! i always avoided rosenthal due to horror stories from lots of people..but then when i had an awful experience at BROWN's Mazda found out they were another rosenthal dealer

rosenthal is so bad that virginia created a new law to protect buyers (back when virginia was republican and cared about working class...not big money)

the rosenthal trick was to talk you into taking home a car you coudn't afford saying if the financing falls through, you just had a great car for free for a couple of days ! but the financing for a reasonable interest rate would fall through, but a rosenthal friendly bank would approve the loan at a much higher interest rate...so now you have a care you can't afford at an interest rate you DEFINITELY can not afford...and you had to fight like a feral cat to get them to take it back

the rosenthal law says if they change the loan, you have the right to refuse the car

goyim are fair prey for the tribe

Rosenthal is actually Geneva Enterprises based in Reston, Va.

Read the reviews from customers and employees for a laugh.

Avoid everything local in DC Area associated with AUTONATION stealerships. English as a second language sales staff and horrible service department. They will screw you, stay away.

I have had several very good experiences at Koons dealerships.

Burke Brat wrote: >I use my Credit Union for all financial

Credit unions don't report good credit to credit bureaus they report bad credit when people burn them

You want good credit go to a bank and build up good credit by paying your bills on time , then you can make many deal's happen your way .

Credit unions used to be good way to save money through direct deposit years ago if you worked for who they represented plus they loaned against your savings that's why they became so popular before on line banking became the thing , today you can set up automatic savings payments through any bank

If you want a 3nd world experience try DARCARS

as bad as buying from dealers can be...buying from owners is THE worst

people don't have to worry about a multimillion dollar business going down...so they lie like hell

Never trade-in your car!!! Sell it to CarMax. Done.

Only deal with the Internet Salespeople once you've decided whate you want.

Use TrueCar Certified Dealer but also cast a very wide net. Remember that dealers can trade cars to get in the one YOU want. Always get the VIN# of that car to make sure they don't switch!!!

Finance via online banking or credit union.

Last, Use the communications you have to find out when the dealerships end of quarter is coming up!!!! Hold off until the last hours of that day to buy. Dealerships have quotas & they will whore out the last couple of cars pricing to meet their incentive goals!!!! If it's raining & slow that day, all the better!!!

We've bought and sold cars at Carmax. I'd use them again.

Koons Ram/Jeep in Tysons Corner. Bunch of leeches.

blinkyblinklight Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> We've bought and sold cars at Carmax. I'd use
> them again.


This above. Carmax is fair and done the routine 2x past 5 years.

Baru Justy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> blinkyblinklight Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > We've bought and sold cars at Carmax. I'd use
> > them again.
>
>
> This above. Carmax is fair and done the routine
> 2x past 5 years.


Only sell your car to CarMax, otherwise CarMax=Suckers

It's a common situation. Most of those dealers have a goal to sell you a product. Of course, they want to do it for the highest price. Lately I am thinking about moving to a car-sharing services as car maintenance is way too expensive and I don't even use my car that often. I have already read all the jeep repair manuals to fix the car by myself without wasting too much money but still, it's time-consuming.

sheehy vw not bad, but prices suck
ford and subaru sheehy just suck
ANYTHING rosenthal...need to check because rosenthal hides their name since they are well known scum

Always has been, Always will be.

koons is fucking horrible... koons must be ran by koons

Always secure your financing BEFORE you make a trip to any dealership.

If you have a trade, get offers from Carmax or some other company that specializes in that. You will get more if you sell it to them.

Use a buying service to avoid new car pricing bullshit, and avoid the insane process fees of $500 to $800

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Posting defamatory or criminal content on FairfaxUnderground.com can have serious legal consequences. Defamation, which includes false statements that harm a person's reputation, can result in civil lawsuits for damages. Criminal charges may also be brought if the content constitutes a criminal offense, such as making threats or inciting violence. Additionally, individuals who post illegal content may be subject to investigation by law enforcement agencies and face prosecution. It is important to use online forums responsibly and to ensure that any content posted is legal, truthful, and respectful of others.
5.6
Anthony Fauci
Mind Control
Washington DC
Paris France
Toilet Paper
Corona Virus
Kim Kardashian
Covid Vaccine
Black Lives Matter
ALL SEEING EYE
Church of Satan
Crypto Crash
Lets Go Brandon
Adolf Hitler
Nine One One
Singularity
Redemption
Liquid Death
Climate Change

ccording to confidential sources, an individual has been identified as the responsible party for posting defamatory content on FairfaxUnderground.com. The repercussions of their actions have resulted in a detrimental impact on the online reputations of at least six individuals. The responsible party will be held accountable for their misconduct in a discreet and appropriate manner. It is imperative to exercise caution when engaging in online communication to avoid similar negative consequences. The legal system will ensure that justice is served, without drawing any undue attention to the situation.