has anyone (re)treated a deck?

should I say "screw yearly maintenance, paint looks fine", or go for a "name brand deck coating" ?

1) special oil for decks (+ wax protection) (yearly, wax duuno though)

2) oil based stains (yearly)

2) varnish (still yearly)

3) urethane (spar, flakes in one year despite claims)

4) tung oil (superior indoors and on use on sail boats?)
(imported tree sap that hardens over time,
never tried outdoors myself)

5) some $50 / pint $150/gal super marine formulas

6) primer paint + latex paint, grey & white

7) bondo, sanded, with some skull and bones overspray
(yes bondo works excellent on outdoor wood as filler
but i'm kidding about using it)

pic 1

shows pressure washer: sure to dry out and crack wood w/in one year after use. totally ruins deck. NEVER let anyone talk you into pressure washing wood period: it cuts the grain and removes all natural conditioner and any "pressure treatments"

pic 2

people on home depot are saying "OMG what a waste of money. never buy this deck cleaner you may as well use clorox - full strength it does nothing." (meaning, all the ads you see of before and after are bullshit produced by people selling snake oil)
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i expect my wood to look like this when i'm done (jk)
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hey if anyone sees a van in town cover with graphics that says "we do deck graphics" could you write the number down for me?

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dont know the best option but I can tell you cheap materials in painting or staining are the worst option. They require more labor as they are runny, thin and require more coats. If it were me I would go to the Ben Moore store ask them what to do and do it. You will pay double for your materials but it will take less time to do and last at least twice as long. Sucks cause I hate paying top retail but in the end your time is much more valuable and besides the results will look much much better...

Here is the absolute proven answer:

(1) Soak plants under the deck with water and then cover with a tarp.

(2) Liberally spray a thick wet coat of outdoor bleach all over the wood deck and rails and steps etc. You need a hand pump sprayer for this. I typically work on a 10' x 10' section or area at a time. Apply bleach liberally - you will need more product than you think to get everywhere clean. Let it sit for 15 minutes.

(3) Put on eye goggle protection. Fire up the pressure washer after inserting a medium wide spray pattern nozzle. Do not use the narrowest highest pressure spray nozzle. Use pressure washer in sweeping motion to both rinse off the bleach and clean off the layers of outdoor scum darkening the wood. You do not want the nozzle 1" or less from the wood -- that will bring up the wood grain to much and leave a kind of fuzzy texture. However -- holding the wand about 3-6" above the wood grain will do a fantastic job of bringing out out the original wood color and grain. Done right -- your wood looks new again almost like the day it was installed.

(4) Let it dry totally for two days. If you fuzzed up the wood grain in a couple of areas no problem -- get out an electric sander and sand it back down to smooth wood again.

(5) Buy multiple types of deck sealer applicators. You need both narrow small rollers for the fence posts and pickets, and wide rollers for the deck. Also get multiple large rectangular pads with a center fin for the deck floor boards (used correctly, the fin applies some stain and sealer even in between the boards). Apply a top notch deck sealer maybe with semi-transparent or transparent stain color in it. The top leading product is Behr Premium Semi-transparent stain & sealer all in one. You can pick out your favorite of over 50 different tint colors. To get professional and long lasting results you must apply a coat -- let it dry for a day -- and then apply a second coat. First coat uses a lot of product because the newly cleaned wood surface is absorbing the stain & sealer. Second coat goes much farther. Put down liberal coats of the product -- do not skimp.

A beautiful result you will be proud of for 5-6 years.

your time Wrote:
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> dont know the best option but I can tell you cheap
> materials in painting or staining are the worst
> option. They require more labor as they are
> runny, thin and require more coats. If it were me
> I would go to the Ben Moore store ask them what to
> do and do it. You will pay double for your
> materials but it will take less time to do and
> last at least twice as long. Sucks cause I hate
> paying top retail but in the end your time is much
> more valuable and besides the results will look
> much much better...

exactly what worries me. deck cleaning , "oiling", TWO MORE deck cleaning (due to lies on oil can & internet, and delay), also some ruined chairs that had "expensive urethane" which began peeling only a year later despite perfect prep work. the more you spend time&$$$ the deeper your in.

i wonder if just WAITING and to building a new deck when it's time isn't easier

(hopefully with wood that isn't bio-safe, real pressure treated decking, you can't even trust a lumber yard to sell "real deck wood" these days!)

so your step 1-5 shows it's less (tools, time, and money) to replace the wood (just the exposed part)

which will last 5-6 years

perhaps 10+ if anyone sweeps and/or cleans it gently and regularly, without ANY treatment

....

really though i just found out i have BEHR decking products from years back that are full never used

$$$ already spent, so i have the time for it

thanks for the tip on covering plants didn't think of that

see you said use a pressure washer after chemically damaging wood, and the pressure washer cuts all the fibers, washes out pressure treatment and natural (oils) too.

"Apply a top notch deck sealer"

i just doubt any sealer is going to work after all that harsh treatment

and at any rate after all the effort ... is the result really going to be "so much better than" using a high quality paint ?

but i'm locked in - someone already spent the $$$ (after i said not to infact), wasn't my choice

i just can't beleive these snake oil products that say "for outdoor" that only last 1 year (or "works on hard wood" (anything will)) are still getting away with it and for so long, putting "suitable for purpose of protecting decking wood" and all their advice (some parts of which damage pressure treatment or natural wood conditioner)

i'm going to say: pine decks, given todays "cheap ass we dont really pressure treat it and call it biosafe" wood

are no longer thesible

with junk wood you need a roof and siding to protect it: hours of labor and materials are a waste that COULD have been spent on a roof using less TIME

you need a roof (and siding) to protect bad pine outdoors, unless your just aching for problems or for monkey see monkey do

i expecteed "pressure treatement" to get better with "science" not worse !! i mean F how do i return the wood ?? it's just not thesible anymore, pine outdoor decking

NOT THESIBLE

Here is the ultimate rule - don't put anything that forms a surface film on a deck, fence, or other outdoor wood like that which is exposed to weather.

If you do, then one way or another you're going to have to deal with getting it off later and that's were all of the work is. Paint, semi-transparent stains, urethane, varnish, whatever. It all will crack and peel once moisture gets under the film and the sun takes its toll. Then it will look like crap and will be a bitch to get off.

Stick with penetrating oil type products. No, they don't last as long but they're trivial to revive and will hold up better over time. All you need to maintain it is a sprayer and you can go over it again in no time every couple of years. When/if the wood grays or darkens, then you can bleach it out, pressure wash, and/or sand areas as needed without having to strip, scrape, or sand through paint/film.

Only Republicans use wood. You're a piece of shit who hates the environment.

i was just going to mention democrats

California first makes regulations to make wood "biosafe"

because it's biosafe you have to "refinish it often"

then more regulations to "inhibit or prohibit wood stripping" (citrus cleaner instead). but the clear doesn't work except at full strengh

one needs MORE TOOLS to "refinish" with low strength citrus - all made in china which California is about behind pushing across the W->E line. knee pads. multiple brushes. sprayer maybe. hoses and want not. clothes and your time and raisins.

Californias are total balls out pathological liars. Anything to fuck over the USA for some free tacos and a surf board, and a mansion in the hills.

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in other words - it's not economically thesible for many reasons

count it up it's way more expensive than building something "good and lasting"

false wood (more $$$ than regular wood, but cheap) + tools $$$ + time ??? + cleaners $$$ and coatings $$$ + do it often or replace deck anyway, since it doesn't last like they said

ALL THE "carbon credits" of all the import companies making coatings cleaners tools, need homes and all that, and rack up debt.

in the 80's the wood was, ok more toxic, but you didn't eat off them anyway. the wood lasted outdoors without any treatment several years if you just kept it swept and DID NOT mess with it. then: not time for wood, just turn over ... another several years

think of how much time and money that saves, and that it provided an open deck cheap.

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You can't say that now after California's "desgin changes" that benefit CA but say it's for "being green".

What you can argue is: you can make a roofed porch, a home addition, a pool, a garage: for the same F'ing price as what you COULD make with the time and money.

CA knew it would be ultimately FAR MORE envrionmental impact (including poisons).

They fucked you over, they'll fuck anyone over like a sex move: just admit it.

Hey, man, I think it's time for you to admit that your wooden floor is outdated and there's nothing you can do about it. I think you should not trust manufacturers of all kinds of chemicals that the wooden floor can be resuscitated, put it in order, in my opinion it's just a fairy tale. For example, last year I noticed a lot of problems with the floor: scratches, cracks, loss of color, in some places bumps due to humidity. In General, it was necessary to correct the situation. And all I did was take it and change it to qualitative dino composite decking. Its best advantages is cheapness and of course its high quality.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/23/2020 11:42AM by DanGolfy.